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Bits and Pieces

6/10/2020

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Throughout our stay in Rennes, we had the good fortune to explore many of its treasures, both large and small. While time somewhat restricts how many of those sites we can share, here is a sampling of Rennes’ “other” places that you might find interesting.
GATE OF MORDELAISES - Under the Roman Empire, Rennes was known as the city of “Condate” (meaning confluence) because it sat at the junction of the Ille and Vilaine rivers. When the the fortifications surrounding the city were built (between 275 and 300 AD), the color of the bricks used in the construction gave the city a nickname of “The Red town.” Of the four cardinal gates through these fortifications, the one considered to be the most important was the Gate of Mordelaises (named for the important parish town -Mordelaises to the west). This was completely rebuilt in 1452. Through this gate, all of the Dukes of Brittany passed when they came to Rennes to be crowned.
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Prior to the unification of France, Rennes was the most important city in Brittany. The Gate of Mordelaises was considered to be the main entrance to the city through the ancient fortifications and became the “Symbol of the Dukes of Brittany” ( since every Duke passed through this gate on his way to be crowned). Of the original four gates through the fortifications, this is the only one remaining.

CHAPEL OF ST. YVES - in 1358, Eudon le Bouteiller, a canon (priest) from the diocese of Treguier, decided to transform his manor in Rennes into a hospice , dedicated to the Holy Virgin and then, later, to St. Yves. This was managed by the Augustinians. One hundred plus years later (1494) the building was totally remodeled into the present day chapel. Today, the building is part of the Rennes Tourist office, presenting exhibitions that recount the city’s history through photos and models. It was designated a national monument in 1945.
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Originally a manor house for Canon Eudon le Bouteiller, this building later became a hospice and then the Chapel of St. Yves. Now-a-days, it is part of the Rennes Tourist Bureau housing exhibits about the history of the city.
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It seems that, at one time, the niches on either side of the main door might have held statues.
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Inside the main nave of the Chapel are displays and architectural models pertaining to the history of Rennes.
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Old photograph (date unknown) of the Chapel of St. Yves

PLACE DES LICES - This Square, which currently hosts the second largest farmers market in France, dates back to the 9th or 10th century when it was used for jousting tournaments (“Lices” means “jousting ground”). Today, upwards to ten thousand visitors arrive here each Tuesday and Saturday to purchase food for the week. But this is more than just a market. Street performers entertain the crowds throughout the day, turning this whole area into a social event.
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Place des Lices plays host to the St. Tropaz market on Tuesdays and Saturdays.
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During the early 1800’s, twelve plane trees (native to Eastern Europe, North America, and Asia and first planted alongside French roadways by Napoleon to provide shade for his troops) were installed in the Place des Lices as decorative shading for visitors.
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Upwards to ten thousand folks come to the market for their weekly groceries.
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While not a true “farmers market,” because many venders get their supplies from major distributors, some local farmers do set up stalls in the market.
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Street performers also provide entertainment during market times.
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During the 9th or 10th centuries, the Place des Lices hosted many jousting tournaments ( as depicted in this old print). “Lices” actually translates to “jousting grounds.”
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    Carl and Lorraine  Aveni are two retirees planning on traveling through Europe for at least one year.

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