Originally owned by the Knights Templar, this church, which faces the Old Port of Marseilles, was given to a community of Augustinian hermits in 1369. By 1447, the “new” owners began construction of a newer church, which would be primarily used for professional ceremonies [for example, ship porters - dock personnel that made sure your luggage was loaded onto the ship - had their own altars].
Henry II of France was married to Catherine de Medici within this church during 1533, officiated by Pope Clement VII. The church came close to being destroyed during the French Revolution, but, in the end, was saved.. Shortly afterwards, the building was sold to a businessman who used it as a warehouse. Eventually, the building was returned to the Catholic Church.
In 1801, during construction of the street in front of the building, the. Church’s facade was destroyed (it was rebuilt 74 years later). By 1803, the church had been renamed in honor of Saint Ferreol de Vienne, a Christian military Tribune who was martyred in 303 AD.
Today, in addition to being an active religious structure, the Church of St. Ferreol Les Augustines is an important tourist attraction in Marseilles. Included within the building are the tombs of the Mazenod Family (dating from 1564) and of the Montolieu family (dating to 1655) as well as a number of statues and artworks.

Facing the inner part of the Old Port of Marseilles is the Church of Saint Ferreol Les Augustines. Its famous white facade was rebuilt in 1875.

An 1890 photo of the church a few years after its facade had been replaced.

Originally the property of the Knights Templar, in 1369, ownership was transferred to a community of Augustinian hermits/monks.

One of the main features of the church is this high altar, designed by French artist/sculpture, Dominique Fossati

This carved wooden pulpit dates from the 18th century and is listed as a national monument.

Early baptismal fonts, such as this one in the Church of St. Ferreol Les Augtines, were often carved from marble or other decorative stone and just as often highly ornamental.

Ferreol was a Christian who was forcibly recruited into the Roman army and eventually served as a military tribune in Vienna. Imprisoned for his outward showing of his faith, he escaped by swimming across the Rhône River, but was quickly captured by Roman soldiers and massacred.

Augustinian side chapel within the Church of St. Ferreol.

Founded in 415 AD by John Cassian, the monk who introduced the monastic life to Marseilles, the Abbey of St. Victor was one of two such religious structures in the city ( the other being the Abbey of St. Sauver). Legends state that St. Victor had been a Roman army officer who was martyred in 303 AD for his Christian beliefs. Artifacts found within the abbey’s crypt indicated the presence of a former quarry on the site, as well as a cemetery, dating from 2 BC onwards. Following St. Victor’s martyrdom, his body was secreted in a cave that was part of the quarry. The monastery was built over this site.
The abbey suffered damage from a number of invasions by the Vikings and the Saracens, eventually being destroyed, once in 838 AD and again in 923 AD. BY 977 AD, the abbey had been restored.
Saint Isarn, a Catalan monk, began a new construction of the abbey in 1020 AD. Because the Abbey of St. Victor had a strong relationship with both Spain and Sardinia, (as well as owning property in Syria), it had developed into an important economic influence during the Middle Ages.
From the early to the mid-14th century, Pope Urban V enlarged the abbey, surrounding it with crenellated walls (making it look more like a Medieval castle than a monastery). By the early 16th century, however, its influence began to decline, partly due to the loss of its library’s rich ancient manuscripts. These had been dispersed by Abbott Giuliamo di Pierfronips de Medici, in order to please Catherine de Medici.
During the plague of 1720. The monks barricaded themselves behind the walls of the abbey, instead of giving assistance to the ill. As a result, Pope Benedict XIII, secularized the. Monastery, converting it into a collegiate church. The last Abbott died in 1787 and was not replaced before the French Revolution. By 1794, the abbey was stripped of its treasures and the building became a warehouse, prison, and barracks.
Today, all that remains of the original abbey is the church of St. Victor which was dedicated by Pope Benedict IX in 1040 and rebuilt in 1200.

The Medieval Abbey of St. Victor, built over a crypt, sits over a 2nd century BC quarry, overlooking the entrance to Marseilles’ Old Port.

The main entrance to the church is at the base of the tower of St. Isarn, an 11th century monk.

An 1891 print showing the Abbey of St.Victor across the harbor.

The.Church of St. Victor is all that remains of the abbey (along with the crenellated walls).

While most of the abbey’s treasures were dispersed by the Medicis in the 16th century, a few remnants are on display.

A bridge over the crypts affords a view of what waits below. The crypt contains several rooms and chapels.

Discovered in 1970, this sarcophagus of the monk Arduius dates to circa 400 AD.

This whole area seemed huge, indicating what lengths the early Christians had to go through to hide their beliefs.

One of the chapels within the crypt area.

Located in the heart of Marseilles is the former almshouse (now a museum) known as “La Vieille Charité.” Built between 1671 and 1749, it was dedicated to “Notre-Dame, Mere la Charité” (Our lady, Mother of Charity).
During the 17th century, beggars were poorly looked upon and often oppressed in France. To that end, a portion of the police guards became known as “Beggar-Hunters,” rounding them up and putting them in prisons. The concept of an Almshouse was first conceived in 1622, but it took another 18 years in order to find a suitable tract of land and acquire it.
During their heyday, almshouses also served as workhouses for the poor - providing domestic servants, apprentices, bakers, seamstresses, etc. When the French Revolution occurred, La Vieille Charité served as an asylum for vagrants and the dispossessed. Later, it was converted into a barracks for the French Foreign Legion (until 1922). Eventually, the complex was turned into lodging facilities for those folks (up to 146 families) displaced by the reconstruction of the district behind the Bourse Mall. Unfortunately, at this time, the complex had deteriorated into unsafe conditions. By 1962, the residents were rehoused elsewhere and the buildings were closed. Six years later, monies became available to rescue the structures from total dereliction. Between 1970 and 1986, the complex was restored to its former glory.
Today, La Vieille Charité, in addition to being a museum, serves as a home for several cultural and educational resources; including the Museum of Mediterranean Archeology, the Museum of Africa and Oceania, and a school of higher education in the social sciences.

Tucked away in a side street northwest of the Old Port of Marseilles is the entrance to La Vieille Charité.

This former almshouse/workhouse has also served as a barracks for the French Foreign legion and later as housing for displaced families.

Can you imagine the stories this complex could tell if it had a voice?

Just fifty years ago, this complex was in such disrepair that some thought was given to tearing it down. Fortunately, monies became available for a total restoration to its former glory .

Built in the Baroque style, the chapel building in the main courtyard is the centerpiece of the complex.

No longer serving as a chapel, it’s main feature today is this tiny, narrow house.

Not sure why it was built here, but it is somewhat interesting.

All of the typical rooms have been shrunk and narrowed; including the dining room...

...and bathroom. Again, not sure of the practicality of this structure, other than as an interesting art form

Since the 1970 to 1986 restoration of La Vieille Charité, the complex plays host to a number of different enterprises, including this outdoor cafe...

... the Museum of Mediterranean Archeology...

...and the Museum of Africa and Oceania.

The African art on these shields was outstanding.

According to a legend put forth by Aristotle, prior to the founding of Marseilles (in 600 BC), the region was home to a Celto-Ligurian people (a mixture of Celts and Greeks). A young Greek sailor, who was exploring the Mediteranian coast west of Italy, landed in what would become Marseilles and fell in love with a lady named “Gypis,” the daughter of a local chieftain. Following their marriage, the couple was granted a dowry of land . As more Greeks arrived, the first settlement developed in an area that is today known as “Panier” (or Old Town). This settlement was originally called “Marsalia,” Trade links and more inter-marriages developed and the region became a prosperous trading port. During the first century, the Romans moved in (destroying the original settlement) and controlled the area for the next several centuries. By the beginning of the tenth century, the Dukes of Provence came to power and restored Marseilles’ influence, making it an important wine trade center.
With the onset of World War II, much of Marseilles was damaged by Allied bombings. Once the war had ended, an extensive rebuilding campaign commenced. In 1947, excavation work associated with the reconstruction of the city, revealed the ruins of an ancient Roman shipping warehouse, located west of the Old Port, between City Hall and the Marseilles Cathedral. These ruins are one of only a few Roman commercial warehouses remaining in the world.
Eventually, the ruins were converted into a small museum, known as the “Museum of Roman Docks.” It’s exhibits depict discoveries of the ancient city made during the rebuilding process, including artifacts discovered from amongst shipwrecks in the harbor area. These artifacts include a large selection of amphora vessels, along with rare ceramic jugs known as “dolias” (many from the fifth century BC) belonging to the ancient tribes of the region.
Opened in 1963, the Museum of Roman Docks have several exhibits that trace the history of trade with Rome, including the ancient system of weights and measures. While exploring this smallish museum will not encompass the expenditure of a tremendous amount of time, the learning experience gleaned from its exhibits is well worth it.

While the small Museum of Roman Docks is a little hard to find, it is well worth a visit. Its exhibits trace the history of trade between Marseilles and Rome.

This model depicts how Roman shipping warehouses may have looked during their heyday.

Part of the museum’s exhibits focus on items discovered on shipwrecks in and around the city’s harbor.

Cargo ships, such as depicted in this model, helped to make Marseilles an important trade center throughout the Mediterranean.

Among the items retrieved from the shipwrecks was a large selection of amphora (fired clay earthenware used to store and transport wine, and oils).

There is an excellent collection of amphorae of various shapes and sizes in the museum.

Also among the collections are a series of very large jugs, known as “Dolia” - also fired earthenware but without handles.

Amazingly, fired clay plates were found intact in several excavation sites.

The largest cathedral in France (with similar dimensions as St. Peter’s in Rome) is the Cathedral of Saint-Marie-Majeure de Marseilles - known locally as “Cathedral La Major.” Originally built in the 12th century, on the same site used for Marseilles’ religious buildings since the 4th century, the current structure was rebuilt on an enormous scale in the Byzantine-Roman -Revival style between 1852 and 1896. This is actually made up of two churches (old and new Major) superimposed on each other. It is located near the Old Port and Fort Sainte Jean, close to the base of original Marseilles. Part of the earlier, and much smaller [referred to as the “Vielle Major” (while “Vielle” literally translates into a bowed string instrument common in medieval times, in this context, it means “Old Major”)] cathedral remains next to the newer structure.
At four hundred sixty-nine feet long, the Cathedral can seat up to three thousand worshipers. Its main cupola is two hundred thirty-one feet high. Serving as the seat of the Archdiocese of Marseilles, the Cathedral la Major is also a National Monument and is considered to be the only one of its kind in all of France, because of its sheer size and opulent architecture. Sitting next to Marseilles ‘ Old Port (which, incidentally, was the first port of France), the Cathedral symbolized the “Gateway to the East”during a time when Marseilles was a trade center to the whole world. France was trying to show off its power so the Cathedral La Major ‘s large dimensions and elaborate architecture was deliberately designed to impress visitors. It still does that to this day.

Walking past Marseilles’s Old Port and Fort Sainte Jean, we approached the front of Cathedral La Major.

It sits in the middle of a large, open plaza, with no buildings around it, to show off its massive size and elegant architecture.

The interior is equally impressive.

Its decorations and colors are stunning!

No Catholic Church would be complete without a statue to the Virgin Mary.

Even the side corridors are colorfully decorated.

Adding light to the main altar, the two hundred thirty-one high cupola also adds impressive elegance to the Cathedral’s interior.

We have always been amazed by the quality of stain glass windows throughout Europe.

NOTE: Dear friends and followers,
​ Please be assured that our travels during the Corona Virus pandemic have been suspended. We are currently safe and healthy within the United States, close to part of our family. What you will be reading in the following blog post occurred several months ago.
While visiting any particular location, we tend to see three to five attractions within a day. In order to provide proper attention to each of those sites , we post one at a time. Thus, the time lag. Since we will be self-quarantining during the Covid-19 outbreak, this will be an opportunity to catch up, a bit, on our postings.
Thank you all for for your interest in our travels and please stay safe. We’ve enjoyed reading your comments and questions about our travels at our email address.
Carl and Lorraine Aveni.

PALAIS LONGCHAMPS- Built over a thirty year period (1839 to 1869), the Palais Longchamps is not a palace at all, but rather a monument to water. Its existence was to celebrate the construction of a fifty mile long canal (which included over ten miles of underground tunnels) designed to bring much needed water to Marseilles from the Durance River. The elaborate “Chateau d’’Eau” (“Water Castle”) fountain in the center of the structure, unites the east wing’s Museum of Fine arts with the west wing’s Museum of Natural History.
The water from the fountain flows into an artificial basin; draining through underground pipes to a waterfall-like structure, created by twelve ornate bronze small fountains, finally into a second, larger pond. Situated next to the palace is the Longchamps Park, opened in 1869, at the same time as the palace. This glorious green space originally contained a zoo, which was eventually closed in 1987 because of the public’s dissatisfaction with traditional zoos. Many of the zoo’s elaborate buildings still exist, having been re-purposed for other uses. Colorful ceramic statues of the zoo’s former animals dot the park.
The Museum of Natural History focuses on pre-history and evolution of France’s flora and fauna, while the Museum of Fine Arts depicts works between 1644 through 1982. What a fantastic visit to the park and palace! We had a great time.

The Palais Longchamps (constructed between 1839 and 1869) celebrated the completion of a public works project that brought much needed water to Marseilles from the Durance River.

Its central fountain is one of the most elaborate works of art we’ve encountered.

Located in the east wing of the structure, the Museum of Fine Arts was one of five such facilities built in the major cities of France and depicts wonderful works such as Louis Finson’s “Samson and Delilah”...

... and Jacob Jodaens’ “The Miraculous Draught of Fish.”

Located in the west wing of Palais Longchamps is the Museum of Natural history with its eighty thousand animal and twenty thousand plant exhibits...

...along with eight thousand mineral exhibits.

Opened in 1869, at the same time as the Palace, Longchamps Park is one of the nicest green spaces in Marseilles...

...and it includes its own works of art.

At the time of its opening, and lasting until 1987, the park included a zoo. Unfortunately, public dissatisfaction with traditional zoos resulted in its closing.

Many of the original elaborate buildings were kept and re-purposed, such as this giraffe house which now serves as a children’s theater.

Colorful ceramic animals replaced the zoo’s original inhabitants.

Growing up, we remember learning this little French song;
“Sur le Pont d’Avignon
L’on y danse L’on y danse
Sur le Pont d’Avignon
L’on y danse, tous en rond.”

The English translation reads;
“On the bridge of Avignon
We’re all dancing, we’re all dancing
On the bridge of Avignon
We’re all dancing round and round.”

(This was even featured in the Star Trek: The Next Generation episode “Chain of Command.”).Because of this connection to our past, we were determined to make a road trip to Avignon while visiting France.
Avignon sits a bit over 65 miles northwest of Marseilles, on the Rhône River. Archeological excavations have indicated that the earliest settlement here was around 5000 years ago, as a stronghold for the Gallic tribes of Cavares. After eventually becoming the Roman city of Avenio, it was often fought over as an important prize because of its strategic location. During the 12th century, Avignon obtained its independence from Rome and became a flourishing trade center.
King Louis VIII’s forces occupied the town during the 13th century. One hundred years later, it fell under the ownership of the Duke of Anjou, who owed his allegiance to the Pope. Clement V chose Avignon as the new seat of the Papacy because it was more centrally located within Christendom than Rome; plus the situation in Italy was unsettled. During 1348, the town was bought by Clement VI from Queen Joan of Provence. Avignon remained the sole capital of the Catholic Church until 1377, as well as one of the Papal residencies during the Great Schism (1378 to 1417). Like most of Europe during this period, the town experienced frequent outbreaks of the plague. A severe flood in 1755 put three quarters of the town under water.
In 1791, Avignon was annexed by the French National Assembly. When that occurred, the Palace of the Popes’ (the largest chateaux in the town) interior was wrecked. Twenty-eight years later, the famous Avignon bridge ( made of wood) across the Rhône River was completed. This was replaced by a stone bridge in 1909. When this section of the Rhône River was widened to improve ship navigation, it was decided that the bridge was not suitable for expansion to the new shore line ( that is why the bridge only goes part way across the River today). The old city wall of Avignon is the second longest continuous wall in the world, after the a Great Wall of China.
Throughout the 20th century, the town grew exponentially, with the population almost doubling by 1975. Today, tourism is a major industry for the town.
​

The old world charm of Avignon is quite evident throughout the historic district.

As the largest chateaux-fort in the town, the Palace of the Popes served as the seat of the Catholic Papacy between 1309 and 1379.

Inside the Palace of the Popes are some of the most exquisite decorations we have seen.

Many of the former Avignon bishops are entombed in the Palace.

Originally a wooden bridge, completed in 1819, the famous Avignon bridge was replaced by a stone structure in 1909. Unfortunately, when this section of the River was widened to improve navigation, the bridge was felt not to be suitable for extension. Thus, you see it ends in the middle of the River...

...so tourist boats could pass easily.

We were able to go out on the bridge...

...and perform our own version of dancing “Sur le Pont d’Avignon.”

The wall around Avignon is considered to be the second longest continuous one in the world , after the Great Wall of China.

Most of the cities we’ve visited during our travels are proud of their roots and background, touting it by means of a “History Museum.” As the oldest city in France, Marseilles delights in its 26 centuries of history . Located near the Old Port, the History Museum of Marseilles is considered to be the biggest in all of Europe.
Opened in 1983, it is the first town history museum in all of France, displaying major artifacts discovered when the site was excavated in 1967 to make way for the “Centre Bourse” shopping mall. Its 4000 exhibits provide insight into life within the city over the centuries, from its founding by the Greeks in 600 BC up to the 18th century. According to many scholars, the museum’s most famous exhibit is the 2nd century ship’s hull. This is considered to be the best preserved vessel from this time period in the world.
For us, one of the more unique features here is the on-going archeological dig in the gardens just outside the museum’s main entrance. What fantastic ruins!

During 1967 excavations of this site for the purpose of constructing the Center Bourse Shopping mall, ancient ruins were discovered. An agreement was reached to continue with construction of the shopping center as long as the ruins could be fully explored and a history museum created on the lower level of the mall.

The History Museum of Marseilles was finally opened in 1983

Many consider this 2nd century ship’s hull to be the best preserved vessel of its era in the world.

After much research, archeologists created this model of what the ship probably looked like during its lifetime.

From what the archeologists have uncovered so far on this site, they have created this model of what existed here several centuries ago.

The exhibit areas are quite spacious and well laid out.

Created around the third century BC, this two-headed sculpture is still very detailed.

We loved the workmanship on this third century AD tomb!

Can you imagine how much work it must have taken to work this camera?

King Francis I of France, in the early part of the 16th century, recognized the strategic importance of the island of “If” for defending France’s Mediterranean coastline. In 1524, he commissioned the construction of a three story square (92 feet on each side) “Château,” with three watch towers and large gun battlements, on this smallest island in the Friol archipelago, 7/8 of a mile off the entrance to Marseilles’ Old Port. Its deterrent factor was so huge that it never had to engage in any battle ( Holy Roman Emporer Charles V had developed plans to attack Marseilles but he never followed through).
Later on, the fortress was transformed into a prison. Its isolated location and the dangerous off-shore currents made it an ideal prison site ( similar to San Francisco’s Alcatraz). Because so many political and religious prisoners were detained here, Chateau d’If became one of the most notorious and feared jails in France.
In the mid-19th century, the island gained international fame when Alexander Dumas used it as the setting for “The Count of Monte Christo.” The current chateau maintains a rough hewn dungeon as a tourist attraction in honor of Dumas’ fictional character, Edmond Dantes. While another novel “ The Man in the Iron Mask,” has some believe that Chateau d’If is the setting for its main character, there is little or no evidence to substantiate this belief.
During the time the chateau served as a prison, a very definite class system was in existence. The poor were housed in the bottom level cold and damp cells, often with twenty or more detainees in each. The wealthy, meanwhile, could purchase private cells higher up, with windows and a fireplace.
By the end of the 19th century, Chateau d’If ceased to function as a prison and was opened to the public (September of 1890) as a tourist attraction. In addition to Dumas’s novel, the Château has been featured in a number of fictional works, including “The French Connection” and Clive Cussler’s novel “Spartan Gold.”

Several ferries are scheduled each day (weather permitting) to transport visitors from Marseilles’ Old Port out to Chateau d’If.

The landing dock provides an indication of just how inhospitable the island seems.

Dungeons for the poor are located off this lower level courtyard. Cells here are dark, cold and damp.

An upper level balcony gives a good view of the central courtyard below.

Wealthier prisoners could purchase “more hospitable “ accommodations on the upper levels.

This dungeon is maintained by the chateau to honor Alexander Dumas’ fictional character, Edmond Dantes in “ The Count of Monte Christo..”

Wealthy prisoners could pay for a private cell on the upper floor with a window...

...and a fireplace.

So close, yet so far away! This view is from an upper level cell looking towards Marseilles.

While the fortress never experienced an actual battle, its strategic position served as a major deterrent to any attacks along France’s Mediterranean coastline.

Marseilles’ best known symbol and its most visited site, Notre-Dame de la Garde, is located on the highest point overlooking the city. Constructed over the foundation of an ancient fort (which enlarged a pre-existing Medieval chapel) , “Our Lady of the Guard” (the hill on which it is built was known as “La Garde”) Basilica took 21 years to complete - 1852 to 1873.
Back in 1214, a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary was constructed over the old Abbey of Saint Victor. Forty-two years later, it had become a monastery. At the beginning of the 15th century, it was replaced by a church dedicated to Saint Gabriel. During the 16th century’s “Italian War” (1536 to 1538), Francis I commissioned the building of a fort surrounding the church (along with an additional fort outside the harbor on the island of “If”) in order to resist a possible siege by Charles I’s forces. This is the only known example of a military fort sharing space with a sanctuary open to the public.
In 1790, the hill’s fort and sanctuary were invaded by anti-clerical revolutionaries, eventually resulting in the closing down of the church buildings. By 1793, it had been transformed into a prison to hold Louis Phillipe, the Duke of Orleans (and the King’s cousin), along with his two sons, his sister, and the Prince of Conti. After several weeks, they all were transferred to Fort Saint-Jean. On April 4, 1807, the church finally re-opened for worship, while the fort portion went unused.
A privately commissioned silver Madonna and Child - known as “The Black Madonna” - was given to the church in 1834 and quickly became one of the most popular items within the building. During April of 1851, expansion plans for the church resulted in there no longer being any room for military buildings. Construction of these plans began in September of 1853.
In 1892, a funicular was built to make it easier for visitors to get up the 276 foot tall hill. Fifteen years later, after having transported 20 million people) it was shut down because of the increased usage of private automobiles. During World War II, German blockhouses covered the top of the hill. Allied forces liberated Marseilles in August of 1944.
Today, the views of the harbor and of Marseilles from Notre-Dame de la Garde make it the top tourist attraction in the city. It is well worth a visit.
​

The Basilica Notre-Dame de la Garde can be seen from most of Marseilles because it sits atop the highest point in the city.

At least 800 years of history has been associated with this site - from the early 13th century when the first chapel was constructed on the foundations of an ancient fort.

This was one of the most elaborately decorated religious structures we’ve encountered during our travels. It was (and is) beautiful!

By the end of the 19th century, this funicular was built to make it easier for visitors to get to the top of this 276 foot tall hill. An estimated 20 million folks took this funicular before the popularity of privately owned automobiles made it redundant.

Of the several statues of the Madonna and Child throughout the Basilica, the 1834 silver one - known as the Black Madonna and Child- is the most popular.

Once you are standing on the top of the hill, the views are spectacular - here, looking into the outer harbor...

... and out over the city itself.

We had a great time!

France’s King Louis XIV, 1660, commissioned the building of Fort Saint-Jean at the entrance to Marseilles’ Old Port (along with Fort Saint-Nicholas on the opposite side of the port’s entrance). This location was the site of an earlier fortification occupied by the Military Order of the Knights Hospitalier of Saint-John. Unlike other fortifications constructed to defend the city against invading forces, these two forts were built in response to a local uprising against the province’s governor. Thus, its canons were pointed inwards towards the city, rather than outwards towards the sea.
In April of 1790, the fort was seized by a revolutionary mob which decapitated the garrison commander when he refused to surrender the fortress. Throughout the French Revolution, Firt Saint-Jean was used as a prison. Following the overthrow of noted statesman Maximilian de Robespierre (in 1794), 100 Jacobin ( an influential political club) prisoners held in the fort were massacred. Throughout the 19th century, and into the early 20th century, the fort was under the control of the French Army, which used it as a barracks.
Between 1830 and 1960, when the French Foreign Legion was based in North Africa, Fort Saint-Jean was used as a final stop-off point for recruit. It was also occupied during World War II by German Troops. During the liberation of Marseilles in 1944, an ammunition depot, inside the fort, exploded, destroying its historic battlements and several buildings. Repairs and reconstruction of the damage did not commence until 1967 and took four years to complete.
Today, Fort Saint-Jean is a top Marseilles tourist attraction, offering wonderful views of its Old Port.

Having guarded the entrance to Marseilles Old Port (both from internal strife and invading forces), Fort Saint-Jean now sees duty as a museum and top tourist attraction.

This view of the fort was taken from the opposite shore of the port.

An archival photo of Fort Saint-Jean with sailing ships nearby.

While this courtyard within the fort is currently set-up for visitors to relax in the sunshine, we can only speculate about its purpose when the fort was active.

We certainly enjoyed it.

This is an upper courtyard with the watch tower in the background.

Located in the lower courtyard of the fort (as viewed from an upper terrace) it’s chapel serviced the religious needs of its occupants.

Once known as “Officers’ Country”, the rooms off this corridor now house museum exhibits about the history of the fort.

We got spectacular views of Marseilles’ Old Port from Fort Saint- Jean.

Along the Mediterranean coast - at the mouth of the Rhône River - is the second largest metropolitan area in France (after Paris): Marseilles. This port city in Southern France was founded by the Greeks around 600 BC. They called it “Marsalia.” Populated initially by Greek settlers from Phocaea ( modern day Foca, Turkey), it eventually sided with the Roman Republic against Carthage during the Second Punic War (218 to 201 BC). Since its founding, Marseilles had developed as a crossroads of trade and immigration throughout the Mediterranean.
After it became a Roman city, Marseilles prospered and developed into an early center of Christianity in the western Roman Empire. During the fifth century, it was captured by the Visagoths ( one of the most important and powerful of the Germanic tribes at the time). Charles Martel, Prince of the Franks (another powerful Germanic tribe) and his forces sacked Marseilles in 739. Seven hundred years later(1423), Marseilles was again invaded and sacked, this time by the “Crown of Aragon” (a Kingdom of Spain).
The Great Plague of 1720 decimated the population of the city, taking 70 years to recover. During Wirld War II, German Forces occupied Marseilles from 1942 onwards. It was heavily damaged by Allied bombings until it was liberated in 1944.
In addition to being a top tourist destination (around 4.1 million visitors per year), Marseilles has been featured in many movies, including “Fanny,” “ Barrabas,” “The Count of Monte Christo,” “ The French Connection,” and “The Snows of Kilimanjaro.” Desiree Clary (former Queen of Sweden) and actor Louis Jourdan were among some of the many famous folks who were born in Marseilles.

Marseilles’ Old Port is the heart of the city. For centuries, this was the center for trade and immigration throughout the Mediterranean.

Even from the water, one can see the vitality of Marseille as it mixes the old (i.e the Basilica Notre-Dame de la Garde high on the hill) with the new.

Forte Saint Jean ( constructed in 1660) still protects the harbor of Marseille.

Originally built in the 12th century, the Cathedral of Saint Mary Major was rebuilt in 1852 and serves as the seat of the Archdiocese of Marseille.

Chateaux d’If, originally built as a fortress between 1524 and 1531, and later transformed into a prison, was the inspirational setting for Alexandre Dumas’ “The Count of Monte Christo.”

Throughout our 5 1/2 years of traveling the world, we have found that exploring various churches, temples, synagogues, and mosques has provided us with unique perspectives about the communities we’re visiting, learning about these social units’ (communities) norms, values, customs, even their identities, which often are reflected in their religious institutions.
According to some sources, there are around 10,000 distinct religions in the world, although most fall within five dominant groups; Christianity, Islam, Buddhism, Hinduism, and some form of folk religion.
Religion has been defined as “...a social-cultural system of designated behaviors and practices...” centered around a supreme being. However, there appears to be no real consensus for what actually constitutes a religion (or a system of faith).
Presented below is a sampling of the “churches” ( the name derived from the Greek “Ekklesia,” meaning assembly of people) in Lyon.

“EGLISE SAINT PAUL” - Located in “Old Lyon”, this church was originally built in the Gothic style during 549. Damaged in 732 when the Saracens attacked Lyon, it was later restored to include three surrounding cemeteries. It was damaged again during the French Revolution, after which it was transformed into a saltpeter store. By 1801, it had been transformed back into a parish church. Today, it includes sixteen small chapels along the aisles (the first one dating back to 1470).

Saint Paul’s Church in Lyon was originally constructed in 549. Damaged and then rebuilt a number of times over the centuries, it had been converted into a store following the French Revolution, before resuming its role as a parish church in 1801.

The mural behind the main altar depicts scenes from Saint Paul’s life.

The sculptured stone works and stain glass windows were some of the finest we’ve seen.

“GRAND SYNAGOGUE OF LYON” - Early in the 19th century, there was a relatively small Jewish population in Lyon. As the Jewish numbers began to increase, they established their first place of worship in 1849, in a rented hall. Ten years later, they established a new temple, again in a rented hall. Desiring a proper synagogue in which to worship, construction of the current building began in 1863 and opened a year later. Today, this structure is the oldest Jewish institution in Lyon.

The smaller building in the center of this photo is the Grand Synagogue of Lyon, which was opened in 1864.

While we are not as familiar with Jewish religious structures as we are of other denominations, this one certainly impressed us.

“SAINT NIZIER CHURCH” - This church’s name refers to “Nicetius,” the sixth century bishop of Lyon. The first religious building on this site was the Roman Temple of Attis (god of vegetation), whose worship was a cause for Christian persecution around 177. In the fifth century, Eucherius, the Bishop of Lyon at the time, built a basilica upon the ruins of the Roman temple.Originally called “The Church of the Holy Apostles,” in the 6th century it was renamed after Nicetius because of Miricles attributed to him. Damaged several times over the centuries, it was always rebuilt. Following the French Revolution, the building was converted into a flour warehouse, only to return to a church during the 19th century

Constructed in the fifth century over the ruins of a former Roman temple, the Church of Saint Nizier was damaged several times over the centuries but always rebuilt (the last time occurring during the 19th century).

Among its notable features are the elaborate stain glass windows.

“GREAT MOSQUE OF LYON” - As one of the newest religious structures in Lyon (opened in 1994), the Great Mosque is the sixth largest in all of France. Funded by King Fahd of Saudi Arabia, it includes a school, library, and cultural facilities. It also includes an 82 foot tall minaret and an entrance covered by a glass pyramid supported by 230:columns.
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King Fahd of Saudi Arabia funded the construction of the Great Mosque of Lyon, Once construction was completed, this mosque became the sixth largest in France.

Hundreds of worshipers can easily fit into this main prayer room.

“EGLISE SAINT GEORGE”;- Originally constructed in 550, the Church of Saint George was destroyed by the Saracen invasion in 732. Seventy years later, it had been totally rebuilt. During the 14th century, the church came under the control of the Order of Malta (a lay religious order with military and chivalric underpinnings). In 1843, the church had been converted into a hay barn. Restoration efforts between 1845 and 1848 reconverted it back into a church.

Administered at one time by the Order of Malta, the Church of Saint George has been built and rebuilt several time since its original construction in 550. Between 1970 and 1989, the church was abandoned , following which it was assigned to the Priestly Fraternity of Saint Peter.

In its own right , this church’s interior is quite elegant.

During World War II, Lyon, France was a Center for both the German Occupation Forces and the French Resistance. In order to memorialize what life was like in Lyon throughout this period, the “Center for the History of the Resistance and of the Deportations” was established in 1992, in a building that was symbolic on many levels.
Back in 1708, King Louis IV established health services for the French Army and Navy. By 1890, these services had progressed to the point that two French Military Health Schools were needed (one in Bordeaux and one in Lyon) in order to train health care workers for the armed services. In the Spring of 1942, after Germany had occupied France, the Gestapo (secret police) set up their headquarters in Lyon’s Military Health School. Allied air forces destroyed the building in May of 1944.
Following the War, most of Lyon was rebuilt, including the former Military Health School. Its reconstruction refurbished the Health School as a museum to depict life as it existed in Lyon during World War II, as well as to pay homage to those who had been deported to German Concentration Camps. In particular, the museum recounts the French Resistance Movement, which had been led by Jean Moulin. He had been instrumental in bringing several groups together in order to form a cohesive force against the Nazis.
​ While the subject matter in this museum is somber, we felt it was necessary to explore it so that what happened during this period in time is not forgotten. It is well worth a visit.

This building served as one of two French Military Health Schools (the other one is in Bordeaux) from 1890...

...until 1942...

...when the Gsermans occupied Lyon ...

... and turned it into the Gestapo (secret police) headquarters, run by Klaus Barbie (who was infamously known as the “Butcher of Lyon”).

Part of the museum’s exhibits depict life in Lyon during the war when everything was rationed.

Much of Lyon’s Jewish community was deported to Concentration Camps.

As a result several resistance groups sprung up to harass the German forces.

A French civil servant, Jean Moulin, began to bring these resistance groups together into a cohesive unit. He served as the first President of the National Council of the Resistance until his death in 1943 while a captive of the Gestapo.

The museum exhibits a portion of Moulin’s parachute that he used to return to France in 1942 after he had met with Charles De Gaulle in England.

It’s “Day-Trip” time again!
A little over 21 miles south of Lyon sits the village of Vienne, which was, at one time, a major center of the Roman Empire. Prior to the Romans arriving here, Vienne was the capital city of a Gallic people known as the Allabroges. In 47 BC, this became a Roman colony under Julius Caesar. After the Allabroges had expelled them, the Romans went on the create the nearby Lugdunum (now Lyon). In 7 AD, King Herod was banished to Vienne by Augustus. At this point in time, while Vienne was dependent on the Holy Roman Empire, the opposite banks of the Rhône River was French territory’. Pope Clement V, in 134, abolished the Knights Templar during the Council of Vienne. By 1449, the city had been incorporated into the territory of France.

Vienna’s City Hall

St. Maurice Cathedral

The ruins of Vienna’s medieval castle.

Today, numerous Roman construction ruins, as well as some current use ancient structures, are still visible throughout the city. Among them are the following;

TEMPLE OF AUGUSTUS AND LIVIA - Built around 10 BC as a place of worship, this temple was dedicated “...to Rome and Augustus.” Thirty-one years later, it was rededicated to include Augustus’ wife, LIbiza. During the fifth century, the temple was converted into a church under the name of “Saint-Marie-la-Ville” (Saint Mary of the City). By 1822, the temple/church had become a Library and museum.

Located within La Place du Charles De Gaulle, the Temple of Augustus and Livia was dedicated to Rome, Emporer Augustus and his wife Livia. As an ancient Roman temple, only priests were allowed inside, while regular citizens attended ceremonies on the paved plaza outside.

During succeeding centuries, the temple would be transformed into a church, a library, and a museum. Today, it is closed to the public while restorations take place.

A turn-of-the-century photograph of the state of the temple before a series of renovations took place. The original of this photo is located in the Cleveland Ohio museum.

ROMAN THEATER - During the first century, up on Pipet Hill, one of the largest Gallo-Roman era theaters was constructed. Able to accommodate 11,000 spectators on 46 tiered rows, this theater was not only used for entertainment purposes, but also civic and official gatherings. Rediscovered in 1922, under a ton of debris, the theater was renovated to the point that it is still used today for summer performances (operas, music, dances, etc.).

Seating for 11,000 spectators, this is one of the largest Gallo-Roman era theaters still in existence.

We were able to roam around the theater freely and try to imagine what life was like here back in the first century when it was built.

Its 46 rows of seats rise up the side of Pipet Hill.

ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM OF SAINT-PIERRE - Originally built in the fifth century as a church dedicated to the apostles Peter and Paul, this is one of the oldest churches in all of France. As a functioning basilica, it houses the remains of most of the bishops of Vienne (many of whom are considered saints). This church became a museum in 1872.

During the 5th century, this building was a church dedicated to the apostles Peter and Paul. For the last 148 years (since 1872) this has been an archeological museum.

It is full of ancient objects excavated from all over Vienne...

...including a plethora of amphora receptacles.

ST. MAURICE CATHEDRAL (AKA “VIENNE CATHEDRAL”) - While documentation of the initial construction of this medieval Catholic Church date as far back as 1119, to the crowning of Archbishop Guy of Burgundy as Pope Callixtus II, it was not completed until 1251. The Council of Vienne was held here in October of 1311 by Pope Clement V during which the Knights Templar were dissolved. Following the French Revolution, the Vienne Archdiocese was reduced to a plain parish church.

Vienna’s Cathedral (formally known as the Saint Maurice Cathedral) was begun 1900 years ago but was not completed until 132 years later.

As with most medieval churches we have visited, Vienne’s Cathedral has beautiful stain glass windows....

...even under the dome surrounding its altar.

Built in 19 AD at the foot of La Croix-Rousse Hill (which, at that time was at the confluence of the Rhône and Soane Rivers), the Amphitheater of the Three Gauls was dedicated to the cult of Rome and Emporer Augustus by the 60 Gallic tribes (all of whom pledged allegiance to Rome and Augustus in the amphitheater). Julius Rufus, his son, and grandson (all from an old Gallic family with Roman citizenship) funded the construction. Originally containing only 1,800 seats -large enough to accommodate delegations from the 60 Gallic tribes -the amphitheater was home to traditional Roman games.
Around the start of the second century, two galleries were added, expanding its capacity to 20,000 seats, thus opening it to the whole population of Lugdunum (Lyon).
Excavations in 1956 rediscovered the amphitheater remains we see today, including a basement with three eliptical walls and a channel surrounding the central oval. Research has also indicated that the Amphitheater of the Three Gauls was the site of the martyrdoms of Pothinus (the first bishop of Gaul) and Saint Blandina in 177 AD at the instigation of Emporer Marcus Aurelius.
In 1961, the Amphitheater of the Three Gauls was classified as an historic monument.

Part of the way down from the top of La Croix-Rousse Hill is the Amphitheater of the Three Gauls. This view is from above the amphitheater.

Originally built with seating for only 1,800, by the second century, it had been expanded to accommodate 20,000 spectators.

The post at the front of the central oval area is where Saint Blandina and Bishop Pothinus were martyred in 177 AD by Emporer Marcus Aurelius.

“TRABOULES” - Most of the streets located on La Croix-Rousse Hill are long and winding, making it difficult for Lyon’s inhabitants living on the hill to gain access to the town’s fresh water supply located at the foot of the hill. Some evidence exists that as far back as the 4th century, “TRABOULES” (an apparent corruption of the Latin “Trans-ambulare” meaning “to pass through”) were developed to provide folks more direct access to the foot of the hill. These passages wind through buildings, stairwells, and courtyards and each seem to be different from the others - often decorated with pastel colors.
Lyon’s silk industry began to develop between the late 15th and early 16th centuries, receiving a major boost in 1540 when King Francis I granted the city a monopoly on raw silk imports into France. Much of the silk factories were located on or near the top of La Croix-Rousse Hill, while the textile merchants that sold the finished products were located at the foot of the hill. Because of this, the silk workers - known as “canuts” - found it very difficult to carry their heavy loads down the hill’s windy streets to the merchants that would sell their products. The Canuts discovered that by using the TRABOULES, their efforts were made easier.
There are over 400 of these secret passages still in existence on La Croix Rousse Hill, however only 40 are open to the public. During World War II many of the TRABOULES were utilized by the French Resistance for secret meetings, none of which were ever discovered by the occupying Nazis.
We had a grand time finding some of the public access Traboules while exploring all that La Croix-Rousse had to offer.

Often painted in pastel colors, Lyon’s secret Traboules passagesdot La Croix-Rousse Hill.

During the 4th century, these passages provided inhabitants on the hill an easier route to the town’s fresh water supply...

...while at the height of the silk industry, workers had a better way to bring their heavy loads down to textile merchants.

Can you imagine carrying heavy silk loads down these passages and feeling that it is easier than taking the winding streets?

Some of the passages were quite dark.

One block from the Guignol Little Puppet Museum (see previous posting), in Old Lyon, is the History Museum. Actually comprising two museums (i.e. the History Museum and the Museum of World Marionettes), this building was once the Hotel Gadgne. It was originally constructed in the early 16th century ( between 1512 and 1527) by the brothers Pierrevive, and later (1545) was renovated by two rich Florentine brothers named Gadagne (thus the name “Hotel Gadagne”). A major disagreement between these latter two brothers led them to split the hotel into two main sections. One of the brothers, Thomas, provided part of the ransom to obtain the release of King Francis I, who had been held captive by the Spanish following the 1525 Battle of Pavia. During the 17th century, the hotel was further divided into smaller segments.
The city of Lyon purchased part of the hotel in 1902, eventually (1921) turning their portion into the history museum. It’s mission was to trace the cultural history of the city from the Middle-Ages up through the 19th century by means of its 80,000 piece collection in 30 rooms. Today, the building is considered to be Lyon’s largest Renaissance structure.
Founded in another portion of the hotel in 1950, the “World of Marionettes Museum “ was inspired by the popularity of the original Guignol puppet, which was created in 1808. According to the museum’s own documents, its exhibits change every couple of years, expanding our perspective of puppets from being merely playthings, to their important role in social and political changes around the world. This truly provided us with further knowledge about puppetry and marionettes from what we learned in the Guignol Little Puppet Museum around the corner.

At one time, known as the Hoteel Gadagne, this building now houses Lyon’s History Museum and the World of Marionettes Museum.

From May until November in 1914, Lyon hosted an International Exposition, as evidenced by this old poster.

For the well-to-do in the 17th century, this was a typical master bedroom.

The silk industry began in Lyon between the 15th and 16th centuries. In 1540 Lyon was granted a monopoly over raw silk imports by King Francis I. By the 18th century, silk was the most important industry in the city.

Over the years, French headgear has taken many forms and signified many groups. The red hat on the left was called the “Bonnet Phrygien” or Liberty Cap, signifying freedom during the French Revolution. The Black cap in the middle was used by the National Police, while the red one on the right used in 1793 by the Volunteer Police Battaillon of Lyon.

Called La Ville de Lyon, this was painted by Camille Perrichon around 1720.

For centuries, the art of puppetry and marionettes have been deeply tied to the stories about humanity, alternating between entertainment and religious rites or political agendas.

The World of Marionetts Museum was created to show those connections.

Puppetry involves the manipulation of inanimate objects, often resembling people or animals, by a human puppeteer in order to tell a story. The first recorded document pertaining to this ancient form of theater dates back to the 5th century BC in Ancient Greece. However, scholars believe that some forms of puppetry may have originated as far back as 3000 BC.
Lyon pays homage to this art form with two museums. Our favorite was the “Guignol Little Puppet Museum” ( the other one being “The a Museum of World Puppets next to the “Museum of Lyon History”). It’s wide collection of puppets depicts the process of making puppets in France since 1804.
The name “Guignol,” created by Laurent Mourguet, was modeled after a poor silk factory worker who found that his style of slap-stick performances were more rewarding than his chosen profession. “Guignol” became the main character in Mourguet’s French puppet shows. Mourguet soon became one of the world’s greatest puppet masters.
Located in the heart of Old Lyon, the “GuignolLittle Puppet Museum” was opened in 1995. While small in size, it is full of the history of how puppets were (and are still) made and how they work. Since Lorraine had used a puppet back during her professional clown days, we found visiting this museum fascinating.

Situated on Rue Saint Jean in Old Lyon, this history of puppetry Museum is a fascinating place to visit.

Looking through the entrance, this appears to be just another souvenir/gift shop...

But once you go to the back of the store and pay your admission fee, you enter a whole new world.

The museum part of this establishment is crammed with puppets of all types...

...depicting the history of this art form in France from 1804.

Puppets showing how to make puppets (clever idea)...

...including models showing the development of puppet heads.

What a wonderful experience!

Built into the side of the Fourviere Hill, so it blends into the landscape, the Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilization overlooks the ancient Roman Amphitheater and Odeon(smaller theater for music and poetry). Located within the heart of Lugdunum (the Roman settlement that later would become known as Lyon), the museum chronicles five centuries of the city’s history while under Rome’s influence.
This museum houses a number of unique artifacts, such as;
“LYON TABLET” - an ancient bronze slab (discovered in 1528 in a vineyard on the Croix-Rousse Hill) that bears Emperor Claudius’ speech before the Roman Senate in 48 AD . On this tablet was a proposal to allow landed citizens from Gaul to enter the Senatorial Class once they had reached a specified level of wealth.

Claudius reportedly gave this speech to the Roman Senate in 48 AD. Experts state that the tablet gives tremendous insight into the relationship between the Emperor and the Senate. It also includes responses from some of the Senators.

“THE CIRCUS GAMES MOSAIC” - a second century floor mosaic depicting a chariot race. Discovered in 1806 by workers digging a reservoir, it was acquired by the city government in 1813. The mosaic depicts eight chariots competing around a track barrier filled with water.

Throughout the empire of Rome, daily chariot races provided entertainment for the citizenry. According to documents, the races included seven laps around the track with spectators betting on which chariot would win.

“THE COLIGNY CALENDAR - also dating from the second century, depicts a five-year cycle of the moon and sun phases written in the Gaulish language. It is considered to be the finest example of an ancient pre-Christian system of timekeeping.

Discovered in 1897, this five foot wide, 3.5 foot high bronze calendar was broken into 73 pieces.

A closer look at a segment of the calendar- Evidence exists that this had been banned by the Romans because of its ties to Druidic practices.

​“MOSAIC OF BACCHUS - this mosaic is thought to date from the end of the second century to the beginning of the third century and was part of a dining room decoration in ancient Lugdunum (Lyon). It depicts the Roman god of wine and the theater.

Officially called the Mosaic of Bacchus (Dionysus in Greek mythology) and the Four Seasons, it’s center depicts Bacchus laying on a panther as if it were a couch at a banquet.

“TAUROBOLIC ALTAR” - during 1704, this altar, which refers to the practice of sacrificing a bull, was discovered in a vineyard on the Fourviere Hill.. It dates to circa 160 and is thought to be connected to those who worshiped “The Great Mother of the Gods.”

Some archeological experts believe that this altar was created in an effort to restore the health of the emporer Antonines Pius.

“SVASTIKA MOSAIC” - this floor mosaic depicts ancient religious iconography (from Sanskrit meaning “ ...conducive to well being”) thought to symbolize divinity and spirituality. Sanskrit is one of the oldest known languages in the world - forming the base for many European languages - and is still one of India’s official languages.

This intricate and massive floor mosaic is hard to miss.

While the Swastika icon can be dated to ancient Hindu scriptures from India 5000 years ago, the Nazi’s perverted its use as their national symbol during World War II.

Opened in 1975, the Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilization is considered to house one of the finest archeological collections in all of France. Because of its close proximity to the Basilica of Notre-Dame (just a block or two away) and next to the Roman Amphitheater and Odeon, visitors can easily spend two-to-three days exploring the Fourviere Hill location of ancient Lugdunum (aka Lyon).

The two black squares in the center of this photo (which was taken from the top of the large Roman amphitheater) are the windows of the subterranean Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilization, indicating how architects of the museum blended it into the landscape.

Long before the city became known as “Lyon,” it was a Roman settlement called “Colonia Copia Claudia Augusta Lugdunum” (that certainly is a mouthful, so it was simply known as “Lugdunum”). Founded in 43 B.C. On the Fourviere Heights, at the confluence of the Rhône and Soane rivers, its name meant “ Fortress of the (pre-Christian Celtic) god Lugus [ it was not until the Middle-Ages that the name was changed to Lyon]. Lugdunum would become an important Roman city in Gaul, eventually serving as the capital of the Provence “Gallia Lugdunensis.” Roman emperors Claudius and Caracalla were born here.
Archeological evidence indicates that a Pre-Gallic settlement existed here as far back as 12,000 years ago. Within fifty years of the Romans establishing Lugdunum, it had grown in size and importance as the administrative center of Gaul. Its location close to Germany made it strategically important for the Roman expansion into Germany over the following four centuries.
The very first amphitheater in all of Gaul - aka “The Amphitheater of the Three Gauls” (the first Latin I remembered learning was “Gallia est omnis divisa in parties tres “ meaning “ Gaul is a whole divided into three parts.”) - was constructed on the nearby Croix-Rousse hill in 19 A.D. With the construction of four aqueducts ,which brought water to the city during the 2nd century, Lugdunum prospered greatly. Since both the Rhône and Soane rivers were navigable, Lugdunum developed the largest concentration of wharves and warehouses in Gaul, as well as a customs service and a mint (including two banks). Trade made the city one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the Provence.
Later, internal power struggles led to war (i.e. the Battle of Lugdunum) between a number of factions within the city. As a result, Lugdunum never fully recovered from the war’s devastating effects. Its regional importance began to diminish; no longer maintaining its role as chief city and administrative capital of Gaul.
During the Middle-Ages, while under the Burgundian Kingdom (France, Italy, Switzerland), Lyon (as it was now known) was still an important urban center. Several Popes were crowned here. By 1312, Philip the Fair annexed the city into the “Kingdom of France,” making it a base for French Political Activities throughout the region.
The first print shop was established in Lyon during 1472, which helped to make the city one of the most important publishing centers in Europe. During the 1789 French Revolution, the city endured a two-month siege because of its close support of the monarchy. Two thousand of its citizens died as a result. The first Labor Litigation Court in France was established in Lyon during 1806 and the first cooperative grocery store began in 1835.
In modern times, Lyon’s silk processing industry became a dominant economic factor, with 312 silk factories existing by the end of the 19th century. During World War II, Lyon was not only a center of Nazi occupation, but also of French Resistance. Today, Lyon is one of the most popular tourist destinations (with 3.5 million visitors per year) in France and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

1829 drawing of the foundation of Lyon.

Lugdunum was founded on the Fourviere Hill overlooking the Rhône and Soane rivers.

Lugdunum as it looked during the 2nd century.

The Amphitheater of the Three Gauls was the first such structure in all of Gaul, constructed in 19AD.

With the construction of four aqueducts into the city, Lugdunum prospered greatly.

Known as “the biggest battle in Roman history,” the Battle of Lugdunum fractured the city’s importance as a regional administrative center.

Seen from the Fourviere Hill, the modern city of Lyon is an important cosmopolitan center.

Visiting the ancient theaters on top of the Fourviere Hill where Lugdunum (Lyon) was founded.

Lyon was founded in 43 BC as Lugdunum.

Perched atop the Fourvière Hill ( meaning “the hill which prays”), overlooking the city of Lyon, is the Basilica Notre-dame de Fourvière. The site on which it is built was once the Roman forum Vetus (old forum) under Trajan. The Fourviere Hill has a long history of being popular for pilgrimages and has had a shrine to the Virgin Mary on it since 1170.
At two hundred eighty-two feet long and one hundred fifteen feet wide, the Basilica was constructed by private funds between 1872 and 1880. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary because of her supposed role in protecting Lyon from the bubonic plague of 1643, as well as from a cholera epidemic in 1832 and the Prussian invasion of 1870. With its four main towers and a bell tower, which is topped with a gilded statue of the Virgin Mary, the Basilica ,which has the best views over the city, has become a symbol of Lyon and sees two and a half million visitors per year.

The Basilica Notre-Dame de Fourviere is such an imposing sight atop the Fourviere hill, it can be seen from most of Lyon.

Built in the late-1800’s, it sits on the site of the former Roman forum Vetus (which was commissioned by Trajan).

A 1910 depiction of the Basilica.

The interior , with its many mosaics, is incredibly gorgeous.

Images of the Virgin Mary abound throughout the Basilica...

...such as in the beautiful stained glass windows...

...in stunning mosaics...

...and elaborate statuary.

We can’t say enough about how beautiful the interior is.

The designs and workmanship are amazing.

Next to the Basilica is this replica of the Eiffel Tower, which serves as a radio and television transmission point.

From the grounds of the Basilica are absolutely wonderful views of Lyon.

Facing La Place des Terreaux (site of the famous Bartholdi fountain) is the largest historic building in Lyon; L’Hotel de Ville (City Hall). At one time, this space was nothing more than a swamp, called Terralia Nova (meaning “new pit of earth and water” which was used by crossbow men as a training location, as well as a trap for invaders from the north), before being filled in during 1578. The building that was to become City Hall was constructed between 1645 and 1672. A devastating fire in 1674 caused extensive damage. Eventually, the building was reconstructed and modified - including four sets of arched windows, topped with medallions depicting the Bourbon dynasty. Above the windows is the symbolic lion of the city and a half-relief of King Louis XIV riding a horse. At the top of the building is a clock tower and belfry. The interior of City Hall included very high ceilings and ornate decorations.
During the French Revolution, the Square in front of City Hall was used for public executions ( a total of 79 beheadings occurred here). By 1886, the building had been designated a historic monument. Along one side of La Place des Terreaux is Bartholdi’s “Char Triomphant de la Garonne” fountain depicting France as a female driving a chariot pulled by four wild horses (which represented the four great tributaries of the Garonne River). This fountain was originally destined for the city of Bordeaux but was eventually purchased by the mayor of Lyon in 1892 when Bordeaux could not come up with the money to pay for the fountain.
Today, L’Hotel de Ville and La Place des Terreaux have been designated as part of the UNESCO World Heritage sites .

L’Hotel de Ville (City Hall) as viewed fro La Place des Terreaux.

An 18th century painting depicting Lyon’s City Hall and the square in front of it. At one time, the square was nothing more than a swampy pit. Later on, during the French Revolution, public executions by means of the guillotine took place in this square.

Lyon’s municipal council conducts the city’s business in this chamber.

This magnificent staircase takes visitors to the upper floors where very ornate rooms are located.

Full of gold and red tapestry, the Red Salon was a place for small meetings.

For grand balls, the “Salon D’Honneur” (also known as the Justin Godart Salon) was the place to be.

Frederic AugustenBartholdi, French sculpture and creator of the Statue of Liberty, created this magnificent fountain that sits in the square in front of City Hall.

Over two thousand years ago, the Romans occupied the area that is now known as Lyon, France. In order to provide entertainment for their inhabitants here, they built two theaters on the Fourvière hill overlooking the city. The larger of the theaters was constructed in stages. Beginning around 15 BC, Augustus had a 295 foot diameter theater constructed for comedies and tragedies. By the start of the second century, this was enlarged to 354 feet in diameter in order to provide more audience space (up to 10,000 people). As the largest Roman theater in France, this was divided into three sections; (1) the “Cavea” was the lowest portion of the theater, directly surrounding the orchestra. During bad weather, a “velum” - or awning - was stretched over the Cavea for cover; (2) the “Balteus” was a wall separating the Plebeians (free Roman citizens ) from the Patricians (aristocrats); (3) the semi-circular stage - often decorated with multi-colored geometric patterns - was where the dancers, actors, and choir performed. On the upper portion of the hill, overlooking both theaters are ruins of what were described as vendor establishments (e.g. food and souvenirs).
The smaller theater (3000 seats), known as the “Odeon” ( Greek for “theater”) was built during the reign of Hadrian and was used for music, poetry and political or philosophical orators. This was situated next to the larger theater.
Today, these two well preserved theaters are primarily tourist attractions, although the larger one still offers occasional performances (while we were exploring this site, we saw folks setting up equipment for one such performance).

In the foreground is the 10,000 seat main theater on the Fourvière Hill in Lyon. In the background is the 3000 seat Odeon theater. These two are just a stone’s throw from the Basillica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière which overlooks the city.

One of the distinguishing features of the Odeon theater is the mosaic tiled performance area (seen here in the foreground).

Even though we are standing on the Odeon’s stage, we are NOT performing on this date (LOL) -just visiting.

Above both theaters are ruins of what some believe were shops...

...which probably offered food items and/or souvenirs during performances.

During our visit to the theaters, we watched as stage crews set up equipment for a scheduled performance at the larger theater. The portable platform at the top of the track appeared to be bringing audio equipment to the area at the upper seats of the amphitheater.

Loading the equipment onto the portable platform....

...while work on the stage continues.

Nearly three hundred miles south of Paris is Lyon, the third largest city in France. Located at the confluence of the Rhône and Soane rivers, Lyon is the capital of France’s Auvergne-Rhône-Alps region.
The city’s history dates back over two thousand years. In 43 BC, the Roman Senate commissioned the creation of a settlement for Roman refugees of the war with the Allobroges. According to the historian Dio Cassius, the refugees fled Vienne and formed the “Colonia Copia Felix Munatia,” which eventually became known as “Lugdunum,” (meaning “Desired Mountain”). Because of its strategic location at the junction of two rivers, the Romans made the settlement a communications hub. Emperors Claudius and Caracalla were born here.
Lyon finally came under France’s sphere of influence during the 14th century. In the following century, the city established itself as the economic counting house of France. During the Renaissance, the city was further developed into an important industrial town because of its Silk Trade. When World War II occurred, Lyon was the center of Nazi forces, as well as a stronghold of the French Resistance.
Today, as a UNESCO World Heritage site, Lyon is an important tourist destination.

Lyon is the regional capital and the third largest city in France.

At one time, the Place des Terreaux in front of city hall was nothing but a swampy area. Filled in during the 16th century, it was used for executions at the time of France’s revolution. Today, the square features the Bartholdi fountain, designed by the artist that created the Statue of Liberty for the United States.

Bartholdi’s fountain was placed in the square in front of city hall in 1888. It depicts France as a female sitting in a chariot while controlling the four great rivers (symbolized by the horses) of France.

La Place Bellacore is one of the largest open squares in Europe.

There are many picturesque streets and quaint architecture throughout the city.

Overlooking the city is the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière.

Located in the Old Lyon Quarter, is the Eglise Saint-George. Built in 1845 to 1848, it is the third such structure on the site ( the first church was constructed here in 550.

Probably THE most popular attraction in all of Ireland ( at least in our estimation) is “The Ring of Kerry.” Beginning and ending in Killarney, this one hundred eleven mile long circular scenic route in south west Ireland, includes dozens of the most famous tourists sites along the Iveragh peninsular - including the Torc Waterfall, Muckross House, Ross Castle, Gap of Dunloe, etc.). Just off to the side of the Ring of Kerry are the Skellig Islands. Discovered by sixth century monks, these islands later became world famous when they were used as a backdrop for the 2015 Star Wars comeback.
As part of the “Wild Atlantic Way, “ the Ring of Kerry provides interesting insights into the history of this island nation; from its old monasteries to its Iron Age forts. According to a number of sources, driving the Ring of Kerry takes about three and a half hours ( but that is without stopping to enjoy any of its wonders...and what fun would that be?). If you enjoy riding bicycles, there is a cycling path that follows the the driving route. Whatever way you explore the Ring of Kerry, you will not be disappointed by the sights experienced.

Beginning in Killarney, the 111 mile Ring of Kerry wound around the Iveragh penninsular, ending back where it started, in Killarney.

As part of the “Wild Atlantic Way”...

...the Ring of Kerry ran through quaint Irish villages...

...and through the Gap of Dunloe.

Along the way were several ring forts....

...and beehive stone houses.

Full of history in its own right, the Skellig Islands became world famous when...

...it was featured in the 2015 Star Wars comeback.