As we continued our travels through Germany, our next planned stop had been Hamburg. That is until our son David - who had lived for a time in Trier, Germany - strongly recommended we visit Heldelbeeg instead.
Located 48 miles south of Frankfurt, Heidelberg has a very rich history (some say dating back for thousands of centuries). In 1907, fossils of what became known as “Heidelberg Man” were discovered near that German city. This earliest known evidence of human habitation in the area was dated to the middle Pleistocene (from around 700,000 to 300,000 years ago).
The first real settlements here were traced back to Celtic tribes, as well as the Romans. Some evidence exists that the 24th Roman Cohort constructed and inhabited, a fort in the area, sometime around 40 AD. Three hundred years later (ca. 369 AD), the Roman Rmporer Valentinian I had the first “permanent” camp built along the banks of the Neckar river, to protect the first civilian settlements here. What amounts to modern Heidelberg has been traced to a village known as “Bergheim” (“Mountain House”) sometime during the 5th Century [remnants of this village can be found in the middle of today’s modern Heidelberg]. Documents found in the Schonau Abbey (founded in 1142) first mentioned Heidelberg in 1196. Experts consider this as the official founding date for the city. The first Heidelberg Castle was constructed (sometime during the early 1100’s) on the Koenigstuhl hill overlooking the city (we’ll discuss this Castle in more detail in a future posting).
Within the city itself, the famous Heidelberg University was founded in 1386, upon the order of Pope Urban VI. German theologian, Martin Luther, came to Heidelberg in 1518 in order to defend his “95 theses,” which eventually led to the Protestant Reformation. Shortly after the start of the Thirty Years War (1634(, the Swedish army conquered Heidelberg. Fifty-five years later, French troops took over the town and castle, nearly destroying everything.
From 1933 until 1945, the Nationalist Socialist German Workers Party (Hitler’s Nazi Party) was headquartered in Heidelberg. During their tenure here, the NSDAP hosted the infamous “Book burnings” during “Crystal Night” (November 9, 1938). Thousands of books were destroyed in the quadrangle of Heidelberg University ( a memorial to this tragic event can be found in the quadrangle). Many historians believe that Heidelberg was spared most of the devastating bombing raids of World War II because the U.S. Army had plans to locate their European headquarters here.

Heidelberg’s Town Hall sits in the heart of the Old Town. The original building was destroyed by French troops in 1689. Reconstruction of the Town Hall began in 1701.

This Hercules Fountain (1706) is the prominent feature of the Marketplatz in front of Town Hall. Marketplatz is one of the oldest squares in the city and has always served as a market.

Taken from an upper floor of Heidelberg’s Town Hall, this is the other main feature of Marketplatz, the Church of the Holy Ghost (construction beginning in 1398).

Found in 1907, this fossil skull of “Heidelberg Man” indicates that humans were in this area between 700,000 to 300,000 years ago.

Overlooking the Old Town, Heidelberg Castle (originally built around 1214) stands proudly on the Konigstuhl hillside.

We certainly enjoyed our tour of the castle,

The old bridge across the Neckar river with the castle in the background.

Built in 1592, the Hotel zum Ritter St. George is one of Heidelberg’s oldest buildings.

Europe, as we have discovered, is well known for its wonderful architecture and rich history. In our minds, both of these attributes are best exemplified in its churches. Our concepts of what we would find in Germany were based on the notion that German professor of theology, Martin Luther’s 16th century Protestant Reformation would dominate church architecture. It was to our surprise, however, to see so many “other denomination’s” churches throughout Munich. With the plethora of religious structures encountered in Munich, we decided to present a sampling of the edifices we visited (in addition to those our blog has already covered).
ASSAM CHURCH - built between 1733 and 1746, and officially known as the “Church of Saint Johann Nepomuk,” this church is more colloquially known as the “Assam Church” after brothers who built it, Egid and Cosmas Assam.

Constructed during the mid-1700’s, it became known by locals as the “Assam” church after the brothers, Egid and Cosmas Assam, who built it. The entrance to Egid’s personal residence can be seen to the left of this private chapel’s entrance.

From the interior decorations, we could easily see that this was one of the finest examples of Baroque architecture in Munich.

An avid painter, Cosmas Assam ‘s “Life of St. Nepomuk” ceiling fresco is considered by many to be his masterpiece.

BURGERSAALKIRCHE (“Citizen’s Hall) - Originally constructed between 1709 and 1710 as a meeting hall for the Marien Men (Jesuits) congregation “Annunciation,” it was not consecrated as a church until nearly 70 years later (1778). Among Munich’s churches, this is considered unique because it is a two-story edifice. The windowless lower floor became a church hall, while the upper level became a spectacular Bavarian Rococo church.

Burgersaalkirche is also unique because of its peach-colored exterior.
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Its upper-level interior is a spectacular example of Bavarian Rococo architecture.

In contrast, the windowless lower floor (now used as a chapel and church hall) is rather plain.

LUDWIGKIRCHE (Ludwig’s Church) - Officially known as the “University Church of Louis,” this neo-Romanesque edifice was constructed between 1829 and 1844. In addition to its grand twin towers, the church is home to the second largest altar fresco (“The Last Judgement”) in the world (measuring 62 feet by 38 feet). The towers’ bells were named after the patron saints of King Ludwig’s family.

We found the spectacular looking white twin towers to be quite impressive.

More impressive is this massive altar fresco( culled “The Last Judgement”); reportedly the second largest in the world.

ST.LUKES CHURCH -Constructed along the banks of the Isar river and known as the largest Evangelical (Protestant) Church in Munich, St. Lukes was built between 1893 and 1896. It is also Munich’s only preserved Lutheran church . As such, locals know it as “The Cathedral of the Munich Protestants.” However, unlike other cathedrals, this one was NOT the seat of a bishop.
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St, Luke’s distinctive dome marks it as Munich’s largest Protestant church.

Based on the geometric shape of a Greek cross, St. Lukes interior was built along Gothic lines.

The church’s artistically beautiful stained glass windows (originally created between 1896 and 1899) were completely destroyed during a bombing raid in September of 1943. They were replaced with new ones in 1946.

Throughout our travels over the past four years, we have seen some beautiful churches of various denominations and have learned a great deal about the communities they have served. Those of Munich maintained our enthusiasm for these visits. We sincerely hope that if any of our followers get the chance to travel that each and everyone consider experience any religious edifice that they happen to find open, regardless of the denomination. You will NOT be disappointed.

Images of events that occur during any war are not usually very pleasant. Those eminating from World War II rank amongst some of the worst ever experienced. But, they represent a part of the history that our parents lived through.
While Lori and I were reluctant to visit any of the German extermination camps, our sons, both of whom had traveled through Germany and had studied Wotld War II, convinced us that we should go to the Dachau “concentration” camp.
Dachau, the first of the German Concentration (or forced labor) camps, opened in 1933, 17 miles north of Munich. Located on the grounds of a former munitions factory (northeast of the medieval town of Dachau), the camp’s original plan called for it to serve as a detention center for political prisoners. Later on, it housed German and Austrian criminals; then nationals from countries Germany had invaded; finally housing Jews and other “undesirables.” Eventually, Dachau became a complex of more than 120 sub-camps.
While the focus of the concentration camps, like Dachau, was different (focusing on forced labor) from the “death” (or “extermination”) camps, such as Auschwitz or Buchenwald, at least 32,000 deaths were recorded at Dachau, from overwork. Inmates entering the camp were greeted by its famous logo, “Work will set you free!, Their apparent interpretation was that by working hard they could obtain release from the camp; not realizing that in this instance, “freedom” meant death. Guards often employed floggings, forcing inmates to stand at attention for extreme periods of time, putting inmates in cells so tiny that they could only stand and not lay down, etc. as means of punishment.
Following the end of Wotld War II, the camp was used to detain SS soldiers awaiting trial for war crimes and, later, as a U.S. Military Occupation base. Dachau was officially closed in 1960 before being turned into a museum.
Our visit to Dachau, while informative, was quite sobering. We did have some preconceived notions of what we would see there (mostly from old newsreels). Still, seeing the actual camp and walking it’s grounds, really emphasized its brutality.

Those destined to be “detained” at the camp , exited a train at the town of Dachau and walked the two miles to this main gate.,.

...where they were greeted by the camp’s slogan; “Work will set you free!” This created the hope that, with hard work, they would be able to return to their homes. Little did they realize that this “freedom” meant death.

Processing of new arrivals occurred in this building just inside the main gate...

...while under the watchful eyes of guards in this tower above the gate.

During processing, prisoners were stripped of their civilian clothing and made to take a shower.

Afterwards they were issued the infamous striped uniforms with one of these color-coded badges which indicated why they were imprisoned.

Translated to mean “No Smoking,” this sign was designed to fool the Red Cross into believing prisoners actually had the cigarettes the Red Cgoss provided. Instead, the guards confiscated all the cigarettes for themselves.

Today, the processing center serves as a museum with static display boards indicating the history of the camp.

This massive parade ground is where daily roll calls were held.

Taken between 1933 and 1937, this archival photo depicts some of the conditions in the barracks.

Following the war, most of the barracks, which had stood on each of these raised platforms, were torn down.

Off in the far corner of the camp was the crematorium.

Originally built in 1940, the crematorium was already working beyond its capacity within a year, due to an increased mortality rate amongst the prisoners from overwork. Dachau was not an extermination camp to which prisoners were sent specifically to be killed. Rather, it was designed to be a forced labor camp in which death could be an outcome.The crematorium was closed in 1943.

Located next to the crematorium was this grave of “...thousands of unknown” prisoners.

Dachau was liberated in April of 1945.

​Driving in our bus alongside the camp, we got a sense of how large it really was.

While taking a day trip out of Munich to King Ludwig II’s Linderhof Palace, we made a brief stop in Oberammergau, a beautiful little village in the Bavarian Alps, 56 miles south of Munich.
Located between the Laber and Kolben mountains (at an elevation of 2700 feet), as well as near the 14th century Ettal Benedictine Abbey, Oberammergau is noted for its once-a-decade performance of the Passion Play; an event the town has put on for nearly 400 years.
During the Middle Ages, Europe was being devastated by the plague. The villagers of Oberammergau asked God to spare them from this disease, vowing to put on the Passion Play if their prayers were answered. First performed in 1634, the villagers have kept this vow, now performing it during years ending in “zero.” Over two thousand of the town’s 5200 inhabitants get involved in the play, which has garnered a world-wide reputation. Obviously, a big deal for the town.
In addition to the tourism generated by the Passion Play performances, Oberammergau is noted for being the home of the Bavarian State Woodcarving school (its creations being on sale throughout the village), as well as the premier NATO training and educational facility.
​ Our all-too-brief stop in this gorgeous Bavarian Alps village was an extremely pleasant experience.

Oberammergau is a picturesque village in the Bavarian Alps, 56 miles south of Munich.

Tourists from all over the world flock to this tiny Bavarian village.

The “signature mountain” of Oberammergau is the 4,403 foot tall, snow capped Kofel, the summit of which is less than a mile from the town.

It is best known for its once-a-decade performance of the Passion Play in this theater. Villagers made a vow to put on this play if God would protect them from the plague running rampant throughout Europe and have kept this pledge since 1634.

An 1870 photo of the Passion Play performance, which occurs in years that end in “zero.”

Being so important to the village’s well being, many of the play’s costumes are on display throughout the town.

Nearly half the town’s 5200 inhabitants take an active role in the play. Because the Passion Play is so important to the village, many of its buildings are decorated with scenes from the play.

The art on the buildings is quite elaborate...

...and is on every street corner.

Oberammergau is also noted for its exquisite woodcarvings.

We found some of the most intricate woodcarvings all over the town...

...even tucked in between doorways...

...and in front of the building art.

Part of the reason for so much woodcarving within Oberammergau stems from the Bavarian State Woodcarving School being located here.

Once (1943) the home for the Messerschmitt research and design bureau, today this Oberammergau building complex is NATO’s training and educational facility.

This really is a very pretty little village...

...and a delightful stop during our day trip outside of Munich!