While the earliest beginnings of Heidelberg have been traced all the way back to the 5th century, its official founding was not until 1196. Dominating the center of Heidelberg’s “Old Town” is one of Europe’s largest squares; “Marketplatz.” It is also the oldest square in the city. Bordered on the East by Old Town Hall; on the West by the Church of the Holy Spirit; and on the North and South sides by rows of houses and shops, Marketplatz has always served as a market area, as well as a place for public meetings. Featured in the middle of the square is the “Hercules Fountain.” Constructed between 1706 and 1709, the fountain represents the tremendous efforts to rebuild the city following the destructive elements of the Thirty Years War (1618-1648).
Throughout the year, Marketplatz hosts a number of annual celebratory events, including September’s “Old Town Autumn Festival” (which sports a medieval market, arts and crafts exhibits, a flea market, and music), as well as December’s Christmas Festival ( with festive holiday decorations everywhere). Since the 1970’s, the square has been a pedestrian-only area.
It was our good fortune to have an apartment on the edge of Old Town’s Marketplatz, thus, allowing us to visit it on our daily excursions. During our stay, we discovered that Marketplatz was a popular location for wedding receptions (we encountered a number of them). For us, it was always a pleasant experience walking through the square.

Heidelberg’s Old Town Hall borders the eastern side of the square...

...while the Church of the Holy Spirit dominates the western side.

Encompassing the north and south borders of the square, restaurants, shops, and row houses help to fill Marketplatz with tourists and locals alike.

Prior to the 1970’s, Marketplatz was open to all traffic(as this 1965 photo shows). Afterwards, it became a pedestrian only area.

Following the Thirty Years War, the citizens of Heidelberg worked tirelessly to rebuild the ruined city.

To commemorate those efforts, this “Hercules Foutain” was erected in the center of the square between 1706 and 1709.

One of the big annual events hosted by Marketplatz is September’s Old Town Autumn Festival (as depicted in this archival photo). The square is transformed into a medieval market place, replete with arts & crafts exhibits and music.

An equally important event held annually in the square is December’s Christmas Festival (depicted in this archival photo).

Heidelberg’s most famous church is the centerpiece of Old Town’s Marketplace; The Church of the Holy Spirit - “Heiliggeistkirche”). First mentioned in a 1239 document, it was commissioned by Bavarian Prince-Elector Rupert III and financed by Arnold Ryne (who, at one time, served as mayor of Heidelberg). During the 14th century, the Holy Spirit Church replaced St.Peter’s Church (which had become the university church of the University of Heidelberg) as a parish church. In 1398, the foundations for the current building were laid on the site of a previous Romanesque Basilica, which, itself had been built over an even older church. It took 150 years to complete construction of the new church.
During the French occupation of Heidelberg in 1709 the church was destroyed by fire and then rebuilt. Throughout most of its history, the church was used by both Protestants and Catholics ( sometimes even simultaneously). At the end of the 1700’s, a partition was constructed in the church so that both groups could hold services. This partition was permanently removed in 1930 when the church services became exclusively Protestant.
While many of Bavaria’s rulers had been entombed in the church, most of the tombs were destroyed in the 1709 fire. The only one remaining intact was the tomb of Prince-Elector Rupert III, the church’s founder.
Because our Heidelberg apartment was no more than 100 yards down a side street from this glorious church, we passed by it daily. It is an impressive structure and one that must be visited when in Heidelberg.

Located on one side of Heidelberg’s Old Town Marketplace (opposite Old Town Hall), the Church of the Holy Spirit dominates the area.

Side view of the church looking down the main thoroughfare from The Marketplace square in Old Town towards Bismarckplatz in the modern part of the city (a mile away).

Its interior is massive!

While not the typical stained-glass variety, the oversized windows behind the main altar did provide a lot of light for the interior.

As with other churches we’ve visited throughout Europe, a stunning feature of the Church of the Holy Spirit is its majestic ceiling...

...including a detailed religious fresco.

The only surviving tomb from the 1709 fire is that of Prince-Elector Rupert III and his wife, Elizabeth.

Throughout all of our travels during the past four-plus years, palaces and castles have proven to be some of our favorite stops. The Heidelberg Castle, considered among the most important Renaissance structures north of the alps, ranks near the top of the castles we’ve visited.
The earliest castle-like structure to be constructed on the northern slopes of the Konigstuhle hill dated back to the early 1200’s, and was built for Louis I, Duke of Bavaria. By the end of that century, it had expanded to two castles. When Ruprecht became King of Germany in 1401, he felt the lower castle was too small for his court. While the castle was being enlarged, he went to reside in the Augustinian monastery. Later (1537), a lightening storm destroyed the upper castle.
In 1622, during the Thirty Years War, the commander of the
Holy Roman Empire’s troops, General Tilly, captured Heidelberg and the castle. Eleven years later, Swedish troops did the
same. By 1635, Bavarian troops had recaptured the castle. It was once again captured in 1688, this time by French troops, who eventually set fire to the castle after blowing up the “Fat Tower.” Two years later, Johann Wilhelm rebuilt much of what had been destroyed. Unfortunately, French Troops once again captured the castle in 1695 and blew it up. Over the following decades, much of the castle’s stonework was quarried for the construction of other buildings, while only basic repairs were made to the castle itself.
By the early 1800’s, French Count Charles de Graimberg, while living in the ruins, took it upon himself to preserve what remained of the castle.
While plans were developed in 1883 to try to rebuild the castle, it was determined that a complete restoration was not possible.
Heidelberg Castle’s reputation spread beyond Europe through the 20th and 21st centuries, to the point that now more three million visitors come to the castle annually. We felt somewhat disappointed that funds were not available to restore the castle to its former glory. It is such a grand structure, even in ruins.

Viewed from the far side of the Neckar River, Heidelberg’s Castle seems impressive.

In order to get up to the castle, visitors choose between a 260 foot winding pathway, or taking this funicular railway.

Friedrich V, in a single night during 1615, had the Elizabeth gate built as a surprise for his wife Elizabeth Stuart. It is located in the forecourt of the castle, between the main gate and the castle gate.

Looking like it could hold half the modern city of Heidelberg, the main courtyard was immense...

...and we almost felt swallowed up by it.

Speaking of swallowing, the world’s largest wine cask (known as the Heidelberg Tun) is here within the castle. Measuring nearly 23 feet tall and 28 feet wide, this barrel holds over 58,000 gallons of wine.

Trying to take a selfie that included the whole barrel (while avoiding the glare of the overhead lights) was a challenge (at which I failed).

During the French occupation of the castle late in the 17th century, troops blew up the “Fat Tower.”

As a city unto itself, the castle included its own apothecary (along the right side of the courtyard).Now set up as a museum, it traces the history of German pharmaceuticals.

Friedrich V commissioned the construction of ornate gardens (between 1616 and 1619) as a gift for his new wife - Elizabeth Stuart (daughter of King James I of England). At the time, the gardens were considered to be the “Eighth Wonder of the World” and “Germany’s greatest Renaissance garden.”

Among the few preserved spaces of the castle is this ornate chapel...

...and this grand hallway.

Three times each year, Heidelberg recreates (with flickering lights and fireworks) the burning of the castle by French troops in 1688.

It was a truly fantastic event...

...and one we had only learned of earlier that same day. It is amazing how many times during our travels, happenstance has provided us with surprising experiences.

While evidence suggests that Celtic tribe settlements and Roman forts existed in this area as early as 40 AD, the official founding date for Heidelberg has been acknowleged as being 1196. An estimated square mile area below Heidelberg’s Castle is considered the oldest part of the city, and is, appropriately enough, called “Old Town” (“Altstadt” in German). Running alongside the Neckar River and bordered by Karlstor (Karl’s Gate) at one end and Bismarckplatz at the other end, the Altstadt is the heart of Heidelberg’s historic district. It plays host to the Church of the Holy Spirit (constructed in 1239, it is the most famous of Germany’s Churches); Old Town Hall (built in 1701); the University of Heidelberg (one of the world’s oldest surviving universities, having been founded in 1386); the Karl Theodore Bridge ( the first stone bridge in Germany -1786 - and known as the “Old Bridge”); Hotel zum Ritter St. George (1592); as well as Marketplatz (one of the oldest in the city) and Kornmarket square (one of the oldest agricultural trade markets, with its iconic “Madonna at the Corn Market” statue (1718).
Running from Marketplatz (and the Church of the Holy Spirit) to Bizmarckplatz, is the mile-long pedestrian walkway, “Hauptstrasse” (or Main Street), where most of Old Town’s shopping is located. On the northern banks of the Neckar River, opposite Old Town Hall, is a simple path, known as “Philosopher’s Walk, winding upwards through Heidelberg’s vineyards. Many of the University of Heidelberg’s professors and philosophers enjoyed strolling this pathway because of its natural beauty, solitude, and wonderful views of the city below.
During our stay in Heidelberg, we were extremely fortunate to have an apartment within the heart of Altstadt (not more than 100 yards from the central Marketplatz). This provided us with the sense of actually living part of Heidelberg’s history. How great is that!

Standing in the heart of Old Town is Heidelberg’s Town Hall on the edge of Marketplatz...

...while the Church of the Holy Spirit dominates the opposite side.

Dominating the hillside overlooking the town, Heidelberg Castle (built in the early 1200’s), is one of the most visited attractions in the city.

Connecting Marketplatz with Bismarckplatz, the Hauptstrasse is a mile long pedestrian thoroughfare.

Along the Haupstrasse is the Hotel zum Ritter St. George. It was constructed in 1592 by cloth merchant Carolus Bellier.

Connecting both banks of the Neckar River, the Karl Theodor Bridge (also known as the Old Bridge) - the ninth such structure built on this site - was built 250 years ago.

Professors from the University of Heidelberg found that a pathway through the vineyards on the hill across the Neckar River provided wonderful views of the city.