A little over nine miles east of Heidelberg, where the Steinach Brook meets the Neckar River, is the quaint town of “Neckarsteinach.” The earliest recorded existence of human habitation in this part of Germany indicated that the wood-rich area and waters were great for hunting and fishing. Celtic tribes lived in the area between the mid-8th and the 11th centuries, at which time it became a Roman Catholic Bishopric with ties to the monastery of “Worms” ( a Dominican monastery located 40 miles south-west of Frankfort).
Eventually, the area became owned by the Edelfreien family [a series of feudal lords that became known as the “Bigger (“lightning spear”) Von Steinach]. It was this family line that constructed the famous “Four Castles of Neckarsteinach.”
In 1377, the first mention of Neckarsteinach as a settlement was documented. During this same century, the town was surrounded by defensive walls, making it an enclosed fortification. The 15th century saw Neckarsteinach receiving its first town charter. It was heavily damaged throughout the Thirty Years War (1618-1648). By the end of the 17th century, French Huguenots settled in the area. With their cloth making and tanning skills, the town prospered. In 1699, ownership of the town passed to Casper Hugo Von Metternich Zu Mullensch, only to have it taken over by the Electorate of the Palentinate fifty-five years later.
The most famous landmarks in the town are it’s four castles, built between 1100 and 1231;
Vordenburg (meaning “Fore-castle” or “Further Castle”);
Mittelburg (meaning “Middle Castle”);
Hinterburg (meaning “Hind Castle” or “Hinder Castle”);
Schwalbennest (meaning “Swollows Nest”).
Various families owned the castles through the Late Middle Ages until they became the property of the Bishopric of Worms and Speyer. In the early 1800’s, Vorderburg was sold into private ownership. Today, the Mittelburg is home to the Von Warsberg-Dorth family. The others are now visible to the public. Our son David had suggested that we visit this quaint town and it was great advice.

East of Heidelberg, at the intersection of the Neckar River and the Steinach Brook, is the quaint village of Neckarsteinach.

Walking these streets is like taking a stroll through the Middle Ages.

Not much has changed in the town from the time this old painting was done (circa 1886).

Looking at the town from the Four Castles hill, we were impressed with its beauty and solitude.

The most famous ( and most photographed ) landmarks in the town are its “Four Castles.” This is the privately owned Vorderburg Castle (“The Fore Castle”) with its residence, farm building, and dungeon...

... the Mittelburg castle (“ The Middle Castle”) which is 800 years old and also under private ownership...

Considered by some to be the most impressive of the four castles, the Hinterburg (or “Hind”) Castle was ruined around 1630, during the Thirty Years War...

...and the Schwalbennest ( the “Swollow’s Nest”, also called Castle Schadeck). Built in 1335 under suspicions it was constructed on the property of another family, it was thought to have been ruined during the late 15th century.

This old photo depicts the castles during their heyday.

Along the north bank of the Neckar River, opposite Heidelberg’s Old Town, is one of the most beautiful and relaxing attractions of the city. Known as the “Philosopher’s Walk” (“Philosophenweg”), it runs along the side of the “Heiligenberg” (the “Holy Mountain” or “Saints’ Mountain”). Originally just a simple path through the vineyards above the Old Town, later, during Germany’s “Romantic Period” (late 18th century to the early 19th century), it became a popular location for the University of Heidelberg’s professors and philosophers to enjoy its natural beauty and solitude. Thus, it became known as the “Philosopher’s Walk.” Poets, such as Goethe , Eickendorff, and Hoelderlin drew inspiration from their time on the mountain. Statues of these poets adorn this walkway.
If you are hardy and in reasonably good shape, one of the more popular ways to approach the Philosopher’s Walk is to cross the Old Bridge over the Neckar River to the entrance for the “Schiangenweg” (i.e. the “Winding Path”), a rather steep and winding pathway up the mountain.
Once we reached the Philisopher’s Walk, which indeed was nestled amongst vineyards, we discovered several flower beds containing exotic looking plants not found in the valley below. Somehow, the climate up on the mountain is more favorable for these plants than can be found down in the town itself.
In addition to the enjoyment we got from exploring nature on the mountain, our love of historical landmarks was peaked by discovering that there were ruins of a 4th century BC Celtic Hill Fort and 11th century monasteries (St. Michael’s and St. Stephen’s, both
branches of the nearby Lorsch Abbey) further up the mountain. In 1935, Hitler’s Nazi Party constructed an amphitheater (known as “Thingstatte”) higher on the mountain. It is still here intact.
We had a delightful time exploring this fantastic Heidelberg landmark, particularly because of the views it offered of Old Town down across the river.

One of the most popular ways to get to the Philospher’s Walk is to cross the Old Bridge just below Marketplatz...

...where the entrance to the “Schiangenweg” (the “Winding Path”) is located.

Are we truly ready for this climb?

Climbing this path is a great cardio workout.

It is quite steep and winding. Bring plenty of water.

But, once the Philosopher’s Walk is finally reached, the views of Heidelberg’s Old Town are spectacular!

Originally, this was just a simple pathway through the orchards and vineyards on the “Holy Mountain..,”

...but once the professors of Heidelberg University discovered the beauty and relaxing solitude of the walkway, it became a popular hiking spot.

We had the good fortune to explore the Philosopher’s Walk when the flowers were in full bloom. They were gorgeous!

As an added bonus, we discovered there were ruins of 11th century monasteries and a 4th century BC Celtic Fort on the hill.

We could only imagine what life would have been like up here back then.

Old sketches of the structures only provided a hint of this.

While not as old as the other archeological sites, this is the 1935 Nazi Party amphitheater.

It appeared to be fully intact.

What a magnificent day!

One of the more interesting museums we encountered in Heidelberg was also one of the smallest; the University of Heidelberg Museum. Encompassing just three rooms on the ground floor of the “Old University Building” (constructed in 1712), the museum showcases the history of the university. Founded in 1386, this is the oldest surviving university in Germany. Following in sequence; the first room displays an overview of the university’s founding up through the end of the Holy Roman Empire (around 1806) and includes some of its original documents. Room two focuses on the university’s development during the 19th century. Exhibits about the Romanticism of Heidelberg are featured in this room, such as the creation of the “Philosopher’s Walk” ( a scenic walking path along the hill overlooking the far side of the Neckar River) and works from the famous “Circle of Heidelberg Poets” (e.g. Joseph Von Eichendorff, Clemens Brentano, Johann Von Gorres, and Ludwig Von Arrim). The third (and final ) room follows the university under the Weimer Republic, the Third Reich, and into the development of a democratic society in Germany.
On the floor above the museum is the university’s famous “Alte Aula” (“Great Hall”). First created in 1886, this Hall is where doctoral students would defend their dissertations. Today, the Hall is used for ceremonies, special lectures, and concerts.
Both this museum and the Student Prison (around the back of the museum and described in the previous posting) can be visited during the same day. As you go from the museum around the corner to the Student Prison, look for a plaque embedded in the pavement by the parking lot commemorating Martin Luther’s 1518 visit to the university in order to defend his “28 Theses,” which eventually led to the Protestant Reformation. These are the kind of attractions that we, as amateur history buffs, love to visit.

Just a short distance down the “Haupstrasse” (Main Street) from the Old Town’s marketplace, is the University of Heidelberg Museum. As part of the Old University Building on one edge of the main quadrangle, the museum chronicles the history of the university from its 1386 founding.

Greeting visitors in the lobby is this glass sculpture of a book. The Latin inscription at the top translates into “Always Open.”

Dedicated to its history, from the 1386 founding, up to the end of the Holy Roman Empire (circa 1806), the first room included some of the university’s original documents, including this one from Pope Urban VI in which he ordered the creation of Heidelberg’s oldest surviving university...

...and this early sketch of students attending a lecture.

Prince-Elector Ruprecht I was tasked by Pope Uban VI to oversee the creation and the construction of the University of Heidelberg.

From 1852 until 1889, Robert Bunsen (after whom the “Bunsen Burner” was named ) served as a professor of Chemistry at the university.

The “Great Hall” on the floor above the museum was used by doctoral candidates to defend their theses. Now, it is primarily used for special lectures, concerts, and ceremonies.

Elegantly decorated, we almost felt we were inside one of the ornate churches of Europe rather than a university hall.

In 1983, the university installed this plaque to commemorate the 1518 visit of Martin Luther (during which he defended his “28 Theses,” This plaque is embedded in the pavement next to a parking lot between the “Old University Building” (housing the University of Heidelberg Museum ) and the Student Prison.

As far back as the 16th century, the citizens of Heidelberg were complaining about the rowdy behavior of some of the university students. While the university had always held jurisdiction over unruly students, it wasn’t until 1778 that it opened the “Studentenkarzer” (or Student Prision) as a center for punishment. The usual offenses that would land a student in this detention center included excessive use of alcohol, insulting public officials, disturbing the peace, dueling (yes, this was still fashionable back then), and the ever-popular “freeing the town pigs.” Depending upon the severity of the offense, punishment could last from three days to four weeks. Imprisoned students would be allowed out to attend classes, lectures, or special university events. Otherwise, they were confined to the prison. Don’t feel sorry for them however, as this was not punishment we we would normally envision it to be. Cells were about the size of an apartment (not the six foot by ten foot ones of today) and included a bed and study table. In addition, they were allowed visitors as often as they wished. Most times, their visitors came accompanied by a generous supply of alcohol ( which had probably got them into trouble in the first place), which usually turned the prison into a party venue. For many students, being imprisoned turned into a rite of passage.
Over the decades, students “decorated “ the prison with graffiti, eventually covering everything (and I do mean everything; walls, ceilings, floors, stairwells, etc). Some of this “artwork” is quite amazing.
The prison was finally closed in 1914 and is now a tourist attraction. Located behind the University of Heidelberg Museum, it is open most days (except Monday). This HAS to be visited if you go the Heidelberg. We loved it!

Located behind the University of Heidelberg Museum, the Student prison operated between 1778 and 1914.

Most of the cells were fairly spacious (and not the 6’ by 10’ versions we’ve seen in prison movies). Each one came equipped with a bed...

...a study table...

...and a stove for heat during the colder months.

Still, the overall prison facilities were somewhat primitive.

One of the oldest pieces of graffiti that we found was the one at the top half of this photo with an 1879 date noted (the date is split, with the “18” to the left and the “79” to the right).

As you may have noticed in the previous photos, the emprisioned students proliferically decorated their cells with graffiti. If your device allows you to enlarge the photo , you will be able to see that even the table has graffiti on it.

Most of them showed some artistic talents.

Every conceivable wall and ceiling space was utilized.

Poetry was also included in the wall decorations (Oh, to be able to read German!).

When those spaces were filled in, the students extended their talents out into the stairwell.

In previous postings we had expressed our amazement at how many times throughout our travels that we had run into film crews. This held true even here in the student prison. These two gentlemen with the 360 degree camera were working on a documentary about the prison while we were there.

Enzo and Paige very graciously took time out of their filming to explain what they were doing. Thanks guys!