At four hundred sixty-nine feet long, the Cathedral can seat up to three thousand worshipers. Its main cupola is two hundred thirty-one feet high. Serving as the seat of the Archdiocese of Marseilles, the Cathedral la Major is also a National Monument and is considered to be the only one of its kind in all of France, because of its sheer size and opulent architecture. Sitting next to Marseilles ‘ Old Port (which, incidentally, was the first port of France), the Cathedral symbolized the “Gateway to the East”during a time when Marseilles was a trade center to the whole world. France was trying to show off its power so the Cathedral La Major ‘s large dimensions and elaborate architecture was deliberately designed to impress visitors. It still does that to this day.
The largest cathedral in France (with similar dimensions as St. Peter’s in Rome) is the Cathedral of Saint-Marie-Majeure de Marseilles - known locally as “Cathedral La Major.” Originally built in the 12th century, on the same site used for Marseilles’ religious buildings since the 4th century, the current structure was rebuilt on an enormous scale in the Byzantine-Roman -Revival style between 1852 and 1896. This is actually made up of two churches (old and new Major) superimposed on each other. It is located near the Old Port and Fort Sainte Jean, close to the base of original Marseilles. Part of the earlier, and much smaller [referred to as the “Vielle Major” (while “Vielle” literally translates into a bowed string instrument common in medieval times, in this context, it means “Old Major”)] cathedral remains next to the newer structure. At four hundred sixty-nine feet long, the Cathedral can seat up to three thousand worshipers. Its main cupola is two hundred thirty-one feet high. Serving as the seat of the Archdiocese of Marseilles, the Cathedral la Major is also a National Monument and is considered to be the only one of its kind in all of France, because of its sheer size and opulent architecture. Sitting next to Marseilles ‘ Old Port (which, incidentally, was the first port of France), the Cathedral symbolized the “Gateway to the East”during a time when Marseilles was a trade center to the whole world. France was trying to show off its power so the Cathedral La Major ‘s large dimensions and elaborate architecture was deliberately designed to impress visitors. It still does that to this day. Walking past Marseilles’s Old Port and Fort Sainte Jean, we approached the front of Cathedral La Major. It sits in the middle of a large, open plaza, with no buildings around it, to show off its massive size and elegant architecture. The interior is equally impressive. Its decorations and colors are stunning! No Catholic Church would be complete without a statue to the Virgin Mary. Even the side corridors are colorfully decorated. Adding light to the main altar, the two hundred thirty-one high cupola also adds impressive elegance to the Cathedral’s interior. We have always been amazed by the quality of stain glass windows throughout Europe.
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NOTE: Dear friends and followers, Please be assured that our travels during the Corona Virus pandemic have been suspended. We are currently safe and healthy within the United States, close to part of our family. What you will be reading in the following blog post occurred several months ago. While visiting any particular location, we tend to see three to five attractions within a day. In order to provide proper attention to each of those sites , we post one at a time. Thus, the time lag. Since we will be self-quarantining during the Covid-19 outbreak, this will be an opportunity to catch up, a bit, on our postings. Thank you all for for your interest in our travels and please stay safe. We’ve enjoyed reading your comments and questions about our travels at our email address. Carl and Lorraine Aveni. PALAIS LONGCHAMPS- Built over a thirty year period (1839 to 1869), the Palais Longchamps is not a palace at all, but rather a monument to water. Its existence was to celebrate the construction of a fifty mile long canal (which included over ten miles of underground tunnels) designed to bring much needed water to Marseilles from the Durance River. The elaborate “Chateau d’’Eau” (“Water Castle”) fountain in the center of the structure, unites the east wing’s Museum of Fine arts with the west wing’s Museum of Natural History. The water from the fountain flows into an artificial basin; draining through underground pipes to a waterfall-like structure, created by twelve ornate bronze small fountains, finally into a second, larger pond. Situated next to the palace is the Longchamps Park, opened in 1869, at the same time as the palace. This glorious green space originally contained a zoo, which was eventually closed in 1987 because of the public’s dissatisfaction with traditional zoos. Many of the zoo’s elaborate buildings still exist, having been re-purposed for other uses. Colorful ceramic statues of the zoo’s former animals dot the park. The Museum of Natural History focuses on pre-history and evolution of France’s flora and fauna, while the Museum of Fine Arts depicts works between 1644 through 1982. What a fantastic visit to the park and palace! We had a great time. The Palais Longchamps (constructed between 1839 and 1869) celebrated the completion of a public works project that brought much needed water to Marseilles from the Durance River. Its central fountain is one of the most elaborate works of art we’ve encountered. Located in the east wing of the structure, the Museum of Fine Arts was one of five such facilities built in the major cities of France and depicts wonderful works such as Louis Finson’s “Samson and Delilah”... ... and Jacob Jodaens’ “The Miraculous Draught of Fish.” Located in the west wing of Palais Longchamps is the Museum of Natural history with its eighty thousand animal and twenty thousand plant exhibits... ...along with eight thousand mineral exhibits. Opened in 1869, at the same time as the Palace, Longchamps Park is one of the nicest green spaces in Marseilles... ...and it includes its own works of art. At the time of its opening, and lasting until 1987, the park included a zoo. Unfortunately, public dissatisfaction with traditional zoos resulted in its closing. Many of the original elaborate buildings were kept and re-purposed, such as this giraffe house which now serves as a children’s theater. Colorful ceramic animals replaced the zoo’s original inhabitants.
Growing up, we remember learning this little French song; “Sur le Pont d’Avignon L’on y danse L’on y danse Sur le Pont d’Avignon L’on y danse, tous en rond.” The English translation reads; “On the bridge of Avignon We’re all dancing, we’re all dancing On the bridge of Avignon We’re all dancing round and round.” (This was even featured in the Star Trek: The Next Generation episode “Chain of Command.”).Because of this connection to our past, we were determined to make a road trip to Avignon while visiting France. Avignon sits a bit over 65 miles northwest of Marseilles, on the Rhône River. Archeological excavations have indicated that the earliest settlement here was around 5000 years ago, as a stronghold for the Gallic tribes of Cavares. After eventually becoming the Roman city of Avenio, it was often fought over as an important prize because of its strategic location. During the 12th century, Avignon obtained its independence from Rome and became a flourishing trade center. King Louis VIII’s forces occupied the town during the 13th century. One hundred years later, it fell under the ownership of the Duke of Anjou, who owed his allegiance to the Pope. Clement V chose Avignon as the new seat of the Papacy because it was more centrally located within Christendom than Rome; plus the situation in Italy was unsettled. During 1348, the town was bought by Clement VI from Queen Joan of Provence. Avignon remained the sole capital of the Catholic Church until 1377, as well as one of the Papal residencies during the Great Schism (1378 to 1417). Like most of Europe during this period, the town experienced frequent outbreaks of the plague. A severe flood in 1755 put three quarters of the town under water. In 1791, Avignon was annexed by the French National Assembly. When that occurred, the Palace of the Popes’ (the largest chateaux in the town) interior was wrecked. Twenty-eight years later, the famous Avignon bridge ( made of wood) across the Rhône River was completed. This was replaced by a stone bridge in 1909. When this section of the Rhône River was widened to improve ship navigation, it was decided that the bridge was not suitable for expansion to the new shore line ( that is why the bridge only goes part way across the River today). The old city wall of Avignon is the second longest continuous wall in the world, after the a Great Wall of China. Throughout the 20th century, the town grew exponentially, with the population almost doubling by 1975. Today, tourism is a major industry for the town. The old world charm of Avignon is quite evident throughout the historic district. As the largest chateaux-fort in the town, the Palace of the Popes served as the seat of the Catholic Papacy between 1309 and 1379. Inside the Palace of the Popes are some of the most exquisite decorations we have seen. Many of the former Avignon bishops are entombed in the Palace. Originally a wooden bridge, completed in 1819, the famous Avignon bridge was replaced by a stone structure in 1909. Unfortunately, when this section of the River was widened to improve navigation, the bridge was felt not to be suitable for extension. Thus, you see it ends in the middle of the River... ...so tourist boats could pass easily. We were able to go out on the bridge... ...and perform our own version of dancing “Sur le Pont d’Avignon.” The wall around Avignon is considered to be the second longest continuous one in the world , after the Great Wall of China.
Most of the cities we’ve visited during our travels are proud of their roots and background, touting it by means of a “History Museum.” As the oldest city in France, Marseilles delights in its 26 centuries of history . Located near the Old Port, the History Museum of Marseilles is considered to be the biggest in all of Europe. Opened in 1983, it is the first town history museum in all of France, displaying major artifacts discovered when the site was excavated in 1967 to make way for the “Centre Bourse” shopping mall. Its 4000 exhibits provide insight into life within the city over the centuries, from its founding by the Greeks in 600 BC up to the 18th century. According to many scholars, the museum’s most famous exhibit is the 2nd century ship’s hull. This is considered to be the best preserved vessel from this time period in the world. For us, one of the more unique features here is the on-going archeological dig in the gardens just outside the museum’s main entrance. What fantastic ruins! During 1967 excavations of this site for the purpose of constructing the Center Bourse Shopping mall, ancient ruins were discovered. An agreement was reached to continue with construction of the shopping center as long as the ruins could be fully explored and a history museum created on the lower level of the mall. The History Museum of Marseilles was finally opened in 1983 Many consider this 2nd century ship’s hull to be the best preserved vessel of its era in the world. After much research, archeologists created this model of what the ship probably looked like during its lifetime. From what the archeologists have uncovered so far on this site, they have created this model of what existed here several centuries ago. The exhibit areas are quite spacious and well laid out. Created around the third century BC, this two-headed sculpture is still very detailed. We loved the workmanship on this third century AD tomb! Can you imagine how much work it must have taken to work this camera?
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Carl and Lorraine Aveni are two retirees planning on traveling through Europe for at least one year.
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