It’s “Day-Trip” time again!
A little over 21 miles south of Lyon sits the village of Vienne, which was, at one time, a major center of the Roman Empire. Prior to the Romans arriving here, Vienne was the capital city of a Gallic people known as the Allabroges. In 47 BC, this became a Roman colony under Julius Caesar. After the Allabroges had expelled them, the Romans went on the create the nearby Lugdunum (now Lyon). In 7 AD, King Herod was banished to Vienne by Augustus. At this point in time, while Vienne was dependent on the Holy Roman Empire, the opposite banks of the Rhône River was French territory’. Pope Clement V, in 134, abolished the Knights Templar during the Council of Vienne. By 1449, the city had been incorporated into the territory of France.

Vienna’s City Hall

St. Maurice Cathedral

The ruins of Vienna’s medieval castle.

Today, numerous Roman construction ruins, as well as some current use ancient structures, are still visible throughout the city. Among them are the following;

TEMPLE OF AUGUSTUS AND LIVIA - Built around 10 BC as a place of worship, this temple was dedicated “...to Rome and Augustus.” Thirty-one years later, it was rededicated to include Augustus’ wife, LIbiza. During the fifth century, the temple was converted into a church under the name of “Saint-Marie-la-Ville” (Saint Mary of the City). By 1822, the temple/church had become a Library and museum.

Located within La Place du Charles De Gaulle, the Temple of Augustus and Livia was dedicated to Rome, Emporer Augustus and his wife Livia. As an ancient Roman temple, only priests were allowed inside, while regular citizens attended ceremonies on the paved plaza outside.

During succeeding centuries, the temple would be transformed into a church, a library, and a museum. Today, it is closed to the public while restorations take place.

A turn-of-the-century photograph of the state of the temple before a series of renovations took place. The original of this photo is located in the Cleveland Ohio museum.

ROMAN THEATER - During the first century, up on Pipet Hill, one of the largest Gallo-Roman era theaters was constructed. Able to accommodate 11,000 spectators on 46 tiered rows, this theater was not only used for entertainment purposes, but also civic and official gatherings. Rediscovered in 1922, under a ton of debris, the theater was renovated to the point that it is still used today for summer performances (operas, music, dances, etc.).

Seating for 11,000 spectators, this is one of the largest Gallo-Roman era theaters still in existence.

We were able to roam around the theater freely and try to imagine what life was like here back in the first century when it was built.

Its 46 rows of seats rise up the side of Pipet Hill.

ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM OF SAINT-PIERRE - Originally built in the fifth century as a church dedicated to the apostles Peter and Paul, this is one of the oldest churches in all of France. As a functioning basilica, it houses the remains of most of the bishops of Vienne (many of whom are considered saints). This church became a museum in 1872.

During the 5th century, this building was a church dedicated to the apostles Peter and Paul. For the last 148 years (since 1872) this has been an archeological museum.

It is full of ancient objects excavated from all over Vienne...

...including a plethora of amphora receptacles.

ST. MAURICE CATHEDRAL (AKA “VIENNE CATHEDRAL”) - While documentation of the initial construction of this medieval Catholic Church date as far back as 1119, to the crowning of Archbishop Guy of Burgundy as Pope Callixtus II, it was not completed until 1251. The Council of Vienne was held here in October of 1311 by Pope Clement V during which the Knights Templar were dissolved. Following the French Revolution, the Vienne Archdiocese was reduced to a plain parish church.

Vienna’s Cathedral (formally known as the Saint Maurice Cathedral) was begun 1900 years ago but was not completed until 132 years later.

As with most medieval churches we have visited, Vienne’s Cathedral has beautiful stain glass windows....

...even under the dome surrounding its altar.

Built in 19 AD at the foot of La Croix-Rousse Hill (which, at that time was at the confluence of the Rhône and Soane Rivers), the Amphitheater of the Three Gauls was dedicated to the cult of Rome and Emporer Augustus by the 60 Gallic tribes (all of whom pledged allegiance to Rome and Augustus in the amphitheater). Julius Rufus, his son, and grandson (all from an old Gallic family with Roman citizenship) funded the construction. Originally containing only 1,800 seats -large enough to accommodate delegations from the 60 Gallic tribes -the amphitheater was home to traditional Roman games.
Around the start of the second century, two galleries were added, expanding its capacity to 20,000 seats, thus opening it to the whole population of Lugdunum (Lyon).
Excavations in 1956 rediscovered the amphitheater remains we see today, including a basement with three eliptical walls and a channel surrounding the central oval. Research has also indicated that the Amphitheater of the Three Gauls was the site of the martyrdoms of Pothinus (the first bishop of Gaul) and Saint Blandina in 177 AD at the instigation of Emporer Marcus Aurelius.
In 1961, the Amphitheater of the Three Gauls was classified as an historic monument.

Part of the way down from the top of La Croix-Rousse Hill is the Amphitheater of the Three Gauls. This view is from above the amphitheater.

Originally built with seating for only 1,800, by the second century, it had been expanded to accommodate 20,000 spectators.

The post at the front of the central oval area is where Saint Blandina and Bishop Pothinus were martyred in 177 AD by Emporer Marcus Aurelius.

“TRABOULES” - Most of the streets located on La Croix-Rousse Hill are long and winding, making it difficult for Lyon’s inhabitants living on the hill to gain access to the town’s fresh water supply located at the foot of the hill. Some evidence exists that as far back as the 4th century, “TRABOULES” (an apparent corruption of the Latin “Trans-ambulare” meaning “to pass through”) were developed to provide folks more direct access to the foot of the hill. These passages wind through buildings, stairwells, and courtyards and each seem to be different from the others - often decorated with pastel colors.
Lyon’s silk industry began to develop between the late 15th and early 16th centuries, receiving a major boost in 1540 when King Francis I granted the city a monopoly on raw silk imports into France. Much of the silk factories were located on or near the top of La Croix-Rousse Hill, while the textile merchants that sold the finished products were located at the foot of the hill. Because of this, the silk workers - known as “canuts” - found it very difficult to carry their heavy loads down the hill’s windy streets to the merchants that would sell their products. The Canuts discovered that by using the TRABOULES, their efforts were made easier.
There are over 400 of these secret passages still in existence on La Croix Rousse Hill, however only 40 are open to the public. During World War II many of the TRABOULES were utilized by the French Resistance for secret meetings, none of which were ever discovered by the occupying Nazis.
We had a grand time finding some of the public access Traboules while exploring all that La Croix-Rousse had to offer.

Often painted in pastel colors, Lyon’s secret Traboules passagesdot La Croix-Rousse Hill.

During the 4th century, these passages provided inhabitants on the hill an easier route to the town’s fresh water supply...

...while at the height of the silk industry, workers had a better way to bring their heavy loads down to textile merchants.

Can you imagine carrying heavy silk loads down these passages and feeling that it is easier than taking the winding streets?

Some of the passages were quite dark.

One block from the Guignol Little Puppet Museum (see previous posting), in Old Lyon, is the History Museum. Actually comprising two museums (i.e. the History Museum and the Museum of World Marionettes), this building was once the Hotel Gadgne. It was originally constructed in the early 16th century ( between 1512 and 1527) by the brothers Pierrevive, and later (1545) was renovated by two rich Florentine brothers named Gadagne (thus the name “Hotel Gadagne”). A major disagreement between these latter two brothers led them to split the hotel into two main sections. One of the brothers, Thomas, provided part of the ransom to obtain the release of King Francis I, who had been held captive by the Spanish following the 1525 Battle of Pavia. During the 17th century, the hotel was further divided into smaller segments.
The city of Lyon purchased part of the hotel in 1902, eventually (1921) turning their portion into the history museum. It’s mission was to trace the cultural history of the city from the Middle-Ages up through the 19th century by means of its 80,000 piece collection in 30 rooms. Today, the building is considered to be Lyon’s largest Renaissance structure.
Founded in another portion of the hotel in 1950, the “World of Marionettes Museum “ was inspired by the popularity of the original Guignol puppet, which was created in 1808. According to the museum’s own documents, its exhibits change every couple of years, expanding our perspective of puppets from being merely playthings, to their important role in social and political changes around the world. This truly provided us with further knowledge about puppetry and marionettes from what we learned in the Guignol Little Puppet Museum around the corner.

At one time, known as the Hoteel Gadagne, this building now houses Lyon’s History Museum and the World of Marionettes Museum.

From May until November in 1914, Lyon hosted an International Exposition, as evidenced by this old poster.

For the well-to-do in the 17th century, this was a typical master bedroom.

The silk industry began in Lyon between the 15th and 16th centuries. In 1540 Lyon was granted a monopoly over raw silk imports by King Francis I. By the 18th century, silk was the most important industry in the city.

Over the years, French headgear has taken many forms and signified many groups. The red hat on the left was called the “Bonnet Phrygien” or Liberty Cap, signifying freedom during the French Revolution. The Black cap in the middle was used by the National Police, while the red one on the right used in 1793 by the Volunteer Police Battaillon of Lyon.

Called La Ville de Lyon, this was painted by Camille Perrichon around 1720.

For centuries, the art of puppetry and marionettes have been deeply tied to the stories about humanity, alternating between entertainment and religious rites or political agendas.

The World of Marionetts Museum was created to show those connections.

Puppetry involves the manipulation of inanimate objects, often resembling people or animals, by a human puppeteer in order to tell a story. The first recorded document pertaining to this ancient form of theater dates back to the 5th century BC in Ancient Greece. However, scholars believe that some forms of puppetry may have originated as far back as 3000 BC.
Lyon pays homage to this art form with two museums. Our favorite was the “Guignol Little Puppet Museum” ( the other one being “The a Museum of World Puppets next to the “Museum of Lyon History”). It’s wide collection of puppets depicts the process of making puppets in France since 1804.
The name “Guignol,” created by Laurent Mourguet, was modeled after a poor silk factory worker who found that his style of slap-stick performances were more rewarding than his chosen profession. “Guignol” became the main character in Mourguet’s French puppet shows. Mourguet soon became one of the world’s greatest puppet masters.
Located in the heart of Old Lyon, the “GuignolLittle Puppet Museum” was opened in 1995. While small in size, it is full of the history of how puppets were (and are still) made and how they work. Since Lorraine had used a puppet back during her professional clown days, we found visiting this museum fascinating.

Situated on Rue Saint Jean in Old Lyon, this history of puppetry Museum is a fascinating place to visit.

Looking through the entrance, this appears to be just another souvenir/gift shop...

But once you go to the back of the store and pay your admission fee, you enter a whole new world.

The museum part of this establishment is crammed with puppets of all types...

...depicting the history of this art form in France from 1804.

Puppets showing how to make puppets (clever idea)...

...including models showing the development of puppet heads.

What a wonderful experience!

Built into the side of the Fourviere Hill, so it blends into the landscape, the Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilization overlooks the ancient Roman Amphitheater and Odeon(smaller theater for music and poetry). Located within the heart of Lugdunum (the Roman settlement that later would become known as Lyon), the museum chronicles five centuries of the city’s history while under Rome’s influence.
This museum houses a number of unique artifacts, such as;
“LYON TABLET” - an ancient bronze slab (discovered in 1528 in a vineyard on the Croix-Rousse Hill) that bears Emperor Claudius’ speech before the Roman Senate in 48 AD . On this tablet was a proposal to allow landed citizens from Gaul to enter the Senatorial Class once they had reached a specified level of wealth.

Claudius reportedly gave this speech to the Roman Senate in 48 AD. Experts state that the tablet gives tremendous insight into the relationship between the Emperor and the Senate. It also includes responses from some of the Senators.

“THE CIRCUS GAMES MOSAIC” - a second century floor mosaic depicting a chariot race. Discovered in 1806 by workers digging a reservoir, it was acquired by the city government in 1813. The mosaic depicts eight chariots competing around a track barrier filled with water.

Throughout the empire of Rome, daily chariot races provided entertainment for the citizenry. According to documents, the races included seven laps around the track with spectators betting on which chariot would win.

“THE COLIGNY CALENDAR - also dating from the second century, depicts a five-year cycle of the moon and sun phases written in the Gaulish language. It is considered to be the finest example of an ancient pre-Christian system of timekeeping.

Discovered in 1897, this five foot wide, 3.5 foot high bronze calendar was broken into 73 pieces.

A closer look at a segment of the calendar- Evidence exists that this had been banned by the Romans because of its ties to Druidic practices.

​“MOSAIC OF BACCHUS - this mosaic is thought to date from the end of the second century to the beginning of the third century and was part of a dining room decoration in ancient Lugdunum (Lyon). It depicts the Roman god of wine and the theater.

Officially called the Mosaic of Bacchus (Dionysus in Greek mythology) and the Four Seasons, it’s center depicts Bacchus laying on a panther as if it were a couch at a banquet.

“TAUROBOLIC ALTAR” - during 1704, this altar, which refers to the practice of sacrificing a bull, was discovered in a vineyard on the Fourviere Hill.. It dates to circa 160 and is thought to be connected to those who worshiped “The Great Mother of the Gods.”

Some archeological experts believe that this altar was created in an effort to restore the health of the emporer Antonines Pius.

“SVASTIKA MOSAIC” - this floor mosaic depicts ancient religious iconography (from Sanskrit meaning “ ...conducive to well being”) thought to symbolize divinity and spirituality. Sanskrit is one of the oldest known languages in the world - forming the base for many European languages - and is still one of India’s official languages.

This intricate and massive floor mosaic is hard to miss.

While the Swastika icon can be dated to ancient Hindu scriptures from India 5000 years ago, the Nazi’s perverted its use as their national symbol during World War II.

Opened in 1975, the Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilization is considered to house one of the finest archeological collections in all of France. Because of its close proximity to the Basilica of Notre-Dame (just a block or two away) and next to the Roman Amphitheater and Odeon, visitors can easily spend two-to-three days exploring the Fourviere Hill location of ancient Lugdunum (aka Lyon).

The two black squares in the center of this photo (which was taken from the top of the large Roman amphitheater) are the windows of the subterranean Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilization, indicating how architects of the museum blended it into the landscape.

Long before the city became known as “Lyon,” it was a Roman settlement called “Colonia Copia Claudia Augusta Lugdunum” (that certainly is a mouthful, so it was simply known as “Lugdunum”). Founded in 43 B.C. On the Fourviere Heights, at the confluence of the Rhône and Soane rivers, its name meant “ Fortress of the (pre-Christian Celtic) god Lugus [ it was not until the Middle-Ages that the name was changed to Lyon]. Lugdunum would become an important Roman city in Gaul, eventually serving as the capital of the Provence “Gallia Lugdunensis.” Roman emperors Claudius and Caracalla were born here.
Archeological evidence indicates that a Pre-Gallic settlement existed here as far back as 12,000 years ago. Within fifty years of the Romans establishing Lugdunum, it had grown in size and importance as the administrative center of Gaul. Its location close to Germany made it strategically important for the Roman expansion into Germany over the following four centuries.
The very first amphitheater in all of Gaul - aka “The Amphitheater of the Three Gauls” (the first Latin I remembered learning was “Gallia est omnis divisa in parties tres “ meaning “ Gaul is a whole divided into three parts.”) - was constructed on the nearby Croix-Rousse hill in 19 A.D. With the construction of four aqueducts ,which brought water to the city during the 2nd century, Lugdunum prospered greatly. Since both the Rhône and Soane rivers were navigable, Lugdunum developed the largest concentration of wharves and warehouses in Gaul, as well as a customs service and a mint (including two banks). Trade made the city one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the Provence.
Later, internal power struggles led to war (i.e. the Battle of Lugdunum) between a number of factions within the city. As a result, Lugdunum never fully recovered from the war’s devastating effects. Its regional importance began to diminish; no longer maintaining its role as chief city and administrative capital of Gaul.
During the Middle-Ages, while under the Burgundian Kingdom (France, Italy, Switzerland), Lyon (as it was now known) was still an important urban center. Several Popes were crowned here. By 1312, Philip the Fair annexed the city into the “Kingdom of France,” making it a base for French Political Activities throughout the region.
The first print shop was established in Lyon during 1472, which helped to make the city one of the most important publishing centers in Europe. During the 1789 French Revolution, the city endured a two-month siege because of its close support of the monarchy. Two thousand of its citizens died as a result. The first Labor Litigation Court in France was established in Lyon during 1806 and the first cooperative grocery store began in 1835.
In modern times, Lyon’s silk processing industry became a dominant economic factor, with 312 silk factories existing by the end of the 19th century. During World War II, Lyon was not only a center of Nazi occupation, but also of French Resistance. Today, Lyon is one of the most popular tourist destinations (with 3.5 million visitors per year) in France and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

1829 drawing of the foundation of Lyon.

Lugdunum was founded on the Fourviere Hill overlooking the Rhône and Soane rivers.

Lugdunum as it looked during the 2nd century.

The Amphitheater of the Three Gauls was the first such structure in all of Gaul, constructed in 19AD.

With the construction of four aqueducts into the city, Lugdunum prospered greatly.

Known as “the biggest battle in Roman history,” the Battle of Lugdunum fractured the city’s importance as a regional administrative center.

Seen from the Fourviere Hill, the modern city of Lyon is an important cosmopolitan center.

Visiting the ancient theaters on top of the Fourviere Hill where Lugdunum (Lyon) was founded.

Lyon was founded in 43 BC as Lugdunum.