One of the more interesting discoveries we’ve encountered during our stay in Rennes was literally just around the corner from our apartment; “Les Champs Libre” ( translated to mean “ free field”).
Opened in 2006 on the Esplanade Charles de Gaulle - a site that has hosted parades, festivals, and fairs for centuries - this is actually a complex of three buildings;
CITY LIBRARY - Looking like a glass pyramid covering six floors, it contains over 700,000 pieces of literature in its collections - making it the largest in Brittany.

• MUSEUM OF BRITTANY - This focuses on the history and traditions of the region from the Stone Age until present time - often described as “...a journey to discover the culture and daily life of Brittany from prehistoric times up to the 21st century.”
  

SCIENCE CENTER - Constructed in the shape of a cone, this center includes “Merlin’s Lab,” where visitors can try their own hands at thirty different experiments; a planetarium; and the “Hall of Earth.” Which offers insights into the geological history and biodiversity of our planet.

Les Champs Libre is a complex of theee structures within one building that creates “... a unique blend of science and art.” (Quote from a Rennes Tourism brochure).

Taken from an upper floor balcony, this photo presents a birds-eye view of the entrances to each section of the complex.

With over 700,000 pieces of literature in its collections, the six floors of the City Library were constructed to resemble a glass pyramid.

Considered to be the largest library in Brittany, one can easily explore the history of literature in comfort here.

Focused on the history of the region from the Stone Age to the 21st century, the Museum of Brittany offers a unique view into the development of western France’s culture and traditions.

As is the case in all societies, the culture of Brittany was displayed by the evolution of its clothing.

Visitors enter the Science Center from the ground floor of Les Champs Libre.

Merlin’ Lab is a fun place for children..
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...in which they can try their hands at 30 different experiments.

For the explorers in all of us, the Science Center’s Planetarium provides an opportunity to seee “..what’s out there!”

In addition to the three main attractions , there is a 4000 seat auditorium for large events (e.g. lectures, concerts, meetings, etc.).

It’s road trip time again!
Saint Malo is a port city 43 miles north of Rennes, with a reputation at one time of having been a stronghold for “Corsairs” ( i.e. French Privateers).
Originally founded by the Gauls during the first century B.C., it later became known as the Roman settlement of “Reginca” or “Aletum.” When the Western Roman Empire began to lose its influence, the inhabitants of this region, which was now known as St. Malo (having been established as a monastic settlement by Saints Aaron and Brendon) rebelled against Roman rule, eventually declaring itself an independent republic.
During the 17th century, this port city had become an important international trade center. As a result, France found itself in nearly permanent conflict over trade with other maritime nations - especially England. Many Bretons in and around St. Malo took on contracts with the king to act as “Corsairs” ( i.e. privateers), forcing ships traveling through the English Channel to pay tribute. One of the best known privateers at this time was Captain Rene Dugyay-Trouin, who had captured over 300 merchant ships and 16 warships. The French King eventually appointed him as Lieutenant-General of the French naval armies. The Corsair shipowners became so rich from their activities that they built beautiful mansions known as “Malouniers” outside the city walls. By 1758, England had become so bothered by their ships being hounded by these Corairs of St. Malo, that British troops decided to raid the city in order to put a stop to their activities. However, after having destroyed thirty Corsair vessels, the British were unsuccessful at capturing St. Malo, instead only occupying nearby St. Servin.
​ From August to September of 1944 (during World War II) St. Malo was almost totally destroyed by Allied bombings. It took twelve years (1948 to 1960) to rebuild the city.
Perhaps the best known former inhabitant of St. Malo was the explorer Jacgues Cartier who had lived in and sailed from the city during his expeditions up the Canadian St. Lawrence River to Quebec and Montreal. Today, St. Malo’s tall granite walls and its central Cathedral (with Romanesque and Gothic architecture), along with its beautiful stained-glass windows, are top tourist attractions.

Walking the ramparts of this walled city provides a wonderful perspective of both the city and the harbor.

St. Malo’s Coat of Arms grace the entrance to the old city...

...where visitors can meander its cobblestone streets.

Early 18th century map of St. Malo.

Circa 1900 painting of the walled city of St. Malo by Emil Krause.

Old Fort National ( constructed in 1689 to protect the port) on the tidal island of L’Llette. Originally the site of a lighthouse beacon, the fort was at first called Fort Royal. From June to September, access is only gained by foot during low tide....
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.... we managed to do that, which in of itself was interesting because when we first arrived, this was totally covered in water. And yet, a couple of hours later we were standing on dry sand.

Moored in the harbor, just outside the city walls, is the “Etoile du Roy” (“Star of the King”) replica of a 1745 frigate Corsair.

An example of the “Malouiers”/ mansions that the Corsair shipowners built in and around St. Malo.

Officially known as the “ St. Vincent de Saragosse de St.Malo” church ( built between 1146 and 1163 on the site of an ancient 7th century church), this cathedral sits in the center of the walled city.

Its stained-glass windows...

...and magnificent Rose window are highlights of its interior.

This columned-wall is part of the cathedral’s cloister, where the monks would meditate.

Saint Peter’s Catherdral in Rennes is one of nine historic cathedrals throughout Brittany. Its location in the heart of the city has been the site of cathedrals , and the seat of the Archdiocese of Rennes, Dol, and Saint Malo, since the sixth century. During the twelfth century, the earlier church was replaced with a Gothic-styled structure. However, the construction of this newer building left a lot to be desired, as, in 1429, the Tower and the West Facade collapsed.
Rebuilt over the next two centuries (with long gaps between construction stages), the old cathedral was completely replaced. However, this construction also had some faults; in 1754, a large stone fell from the roof of the choir. It was then decided to demolish everything before the whole building collapsed. This demolition occurred between 1756 and 1768, leaving just the formerly rebuilt tower and western facade intact. Rebuilding began in 1787 but was suspended when the French Revolution took place. By 1816, reconstruction began again., finishing by 1845. During this period of reconstruction, the Abbey church “Our Lady in Saint Melanie of Rennes” served as the pro-cathedral (i.e. temporary substitute). This Abbey church had been dedicated to the first bishop of Rennes (St. Melanie) who was buried on the grounds in the sixth century.
During 1906, the Cathedral was designated as a historic monument since it was the only church in Breton modeled after a Roman Basilica. The coronations of all the Dukes and Duchess of Brittany have occurred in this Cathedral.

Rennes’ St. Peter’s Cathedral has gone through several reconstructions over the years, some because of poor prior construction.

Still, the finished product is beautiful.

A view of the main altar from the choir loft by the organ.

While exploring the cathedral, we spotted this illuminated angel statue with the organ in the background and thought it presented a great image.

Painter Alphonse le Henaff painted this fresco, above the main altar, of Christ handing the keys of heaven to St. Peter.

Amongst the several side chapels in the cathedral is the St. Michel chapel which hosts this statue of St. Anne in front of a magnificent stain glass window.

Every cathedral we’ve visited presented wonderful rose windows. This one caught our attention because of the sun rays illuminating the interior.

Works of art abound throughout the Cathedral.

The cathedral’s “Treasury Room” contained this exquisitely sculptured altar piece. We could only imagine the craftsmanship it took to create such a work of art.

During the early to mid-19th century reconstruction of Rennes’ St. Peter’s Cathedral, the Abbey Church of Our Lady in Saint Melanie of Rennes served as the substitute cathedral.

One of the most beautiful parks in France is Rennes’ “Parc du Thabor.” Formerly, these were the orchard gardens for the monks of the Saint-Melanie Benedictine Abbey. The monks named the gardens “Thabor” in reference to Mount Tabor ( believed by Christians to have been the site of the Transfiguration of Jesus) which overlooks Lake Tiberius in Galilee, Israel.
​ Originally, this piece of land was a 184 foot (above sea level) hill that dominated the city. Documents first mentioned the hill when the Benedictine monks of the Saint-Melanie Abbey established gardens here, for the exclusive use of the Abbey. Following the Great Fire of 1720, Thabor became the seat for the Bishop of Rennes.
During the French Revolution, all ecclesiastical properties were confiscated and made part of the State. By 1793, the City of Rennes had acquired the property, with the intention of constructing a general hospice here. A 1795 decree was issued that stated all provincial capitals needed to establish a central school of some sort. As a result, the state chose the Bishop’s palace at Parc du Thabor for the school of Natural History and the former grounds of the Bishop became a Botanical Garden.
By 1811, the Bishop had initiated a legal battle to reclaim his old property. After three years of haggling , the courts decided to return to the Bishop that portion of the gardens attached to his house. Throughout the 19th century, the city acquired adjacent properties to Thabor and enlarged the gardens. Quarrels between the Bishop and the monks over a vast portion of the gardens resulted in the Bishop referring to it as “L’Enfer (“Hell” in French). Plans called for the construction of a reservoir on the newly acquired land so the city would have sufficient water reserves to fight a repeat of the Great Fire of 1720.
Today, Parc du Thabor includes a French Garden, an English Park, caves, band stand, aviary, a rose garden ( with over 2000 varieties), nine waterfalls, and ponds.

Entrance fountain to Parc Du Thabor along the Rue De Paris in Rennes

A late 19th century map lay-out of the Thabor Park

The flowers in bloom present a spectacular image of the various gardens in the park...

...with the bandstand in the background.

This Orangery (greenhouse) fits the image of the Parc du Thabor as a grand estate.

One of the nine picturesque waterfalls in the park.

Someone has an eye for design.

Entrance to the English Garden section of the park.

During a squabble between the Bishop and the monks, the former nicknamed this area “L’Enfer” (“Hell”).

With over 2000 different varieties, this Rose Garden is one of the highlights of the park.

DISCLAIMER: Dear followers, please note that, while we are still posting about our travels around the world, we are not currently on the road. Fortunately, we were here in the States when the Coronavirus hit and are now hunkered down near our family. Since we tended to see 4-5 attractions each day ( when we were traveling), but can only blog about one at a time, what you are currently viewing happened seven months ago (long before the onset of this disaster). Please stay safe and we hope you continue to enjoy our postings.

The most important historical building in Rennes is the “Parliament of Brittany.” However, this was not the typical purely legislative edifice we have come to know, but, rather, a court of justice.
Prior to 1789, when all “Parlement” offices were formally put to an end , the Parlement de Bretagne was a “...sovereign court of justice...” handling appeals from lower jurisdictions (i.e. an appeals court). It did have some restricted legislative powers and was deemed to be autonomous from the monarchy ( established as the “Breton Liberties” under the Treaty of Union with France.
In 1532, the Dutchy of Brittany officially became part of the Kingdom of France. Twenty-one years later, the “Parlement de Bretagne” was established, with it location alternating between Rennes (August to October) and Nantes (February to April). Rennes began to raise taxes for the construction of a new parliament building in 1578. Its foundation stone was laid in 1618 and the building opened in 1655.
Louis XIV became angry with Rennes for its support of the Stamp Duty Revolt and punished the city by moving parliament to Varennes in 1675, Fifteen years later, it was able to return to Rennes. When France set up new administrative areas in the country during 1790, Rennes’ Parliament opposed it and refused to send representatives to the “ Etats Generaux.” So, the French government shut Rennes’ parliament down. By 1804, things had eased a bit between the city and the country, with the result that Rennes was able to host a new Court of Appeals.
A devastating fire on February 4-5, 1994 (set off during violent demonstrations by local fishermen) destroyed the Parliament building. It took five full years to restore the building to the level that it could reopen. This seat of the regional appeal court attracts large numbers of tourists each year, and is one of the few places in France where justice and tourism coexist.

Officially opened in 1655 (after 35 years of construction), Rennes’ “Parlement de Bretagne” eventually became the most important historical building in the city. Noted more as a Court of Appeals rather than a purely legislative edifice, it went through a lot of turmoil over the years.

Half-hour tours are the only way to visit the building’s interior.

This main reception hall seems more suited for a palace than a court of Justice

Its medallion, depicting the city’s Coat of Arms, dominates the Waiting Room ceiling.

A rather plain doorway is the entrance to one of the most spectacular rooms in the building...

... the Grand Chamber, in which the limited legislative powers were decided.

However, the main purpose of the building was to serve as a Court of Justice, hearing appeals from lower jurisdictions.

Like most official buildings of its era, the Parlement de la Bretagne sported a central courtyard.

A spectacular fire (as depicted in this archival photo) in 1994 during a demonstration by local fishermen destroyed the building. It took five years to restore the building to its former glory.