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Columbus, Ohio

4/30/2018

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Twice per year, we have to interrupt our travels to return to the United States in order to see our doctors. We use these opportunities to also see our children and grandchildren. During the Spring visit,we pass through Columbus, Ohio in order to visit with our middle child, Carl, and his family, as well as to have our taxes done. Columbus is a fine family-friendly city and we always enjoy visiting here.

For centuries, several Native American tribes (including the Delaware, Shawnee, Miami, Mingo, and Wyandot) inhabited this territory. With the arrival of the Europeans, this part of the North American continent became known as the “Ohio Country” (1663 to 1763) under the control of the French Colonial Empire. During the 1740’s, a large contingent of Pennsylvania traders overran the territory until the French forcibly evicted them. Conflicts between the Native Americans and the Europeans, over control of the territory, resulted in the French and Indian Wars (1754 to 1763). By the end of these conflicts, the Treaty of Paris ceded the “Ohio Country” to the British Empire. After the American Revolution, this area became part of the Virginia Military District of the fledgling United States. However, the Native American tribes continued to resist expansion into their lands - eventually ending with the 1795 Treaty of Greenville. The first non-Native American settlement, known as “Franklinton” was founded in 1797 in the West Bank of the fork of the Scioto and Olentangy rivers. However, a year later, the settlement was destroyed by a massive flood. Eventually, Franklinton was rebuilt. When Ohio became a state in 1803, the state legislature settled political in-fighting over the location of the state capital by planning a new city in the center of the state and naming it in honor of Christopher Columbus. During the early part of the 1800’s, a wave of European immigrants led to the creation of two ethnic enclaves in the city; a large population of Irish settled in the northern neighborhood of Columbus, while a similar population of Germans took advantage of cheap land to the south. Before the abolition of slavery, in 1863, Columbus was an active part of the “Underground Railroad.” Throughout the Civil War, Union troops looked after 9000 confederate prisoners-of-War at Camp Chase in Western Columbus. In 1870, the Ohio Agricultural and Mechanical College was founded - later to become Ohio State University. By the end of the 19th century, Columbus had become known as the “Buggy Capital of the World” because of the two dozen major carriage companies located here ( including the “Columbus Buggy Company” founded by C.D. Firestone in 1875). With the development on the Interstate Highway system came rapid suburban expansion in central Ohio. By the 1990’s, Columbus has grown to become Ohio’s largest city.

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Located in the heart of downtown Columbus, the Ohio State House is the administrative hub for the entire state.
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The famous arches of Columbus’ “Short North” neighborhood traces its roots back to a period of decline when it had fallen “ just short” of the central business district’s north end. Today, this area has been described as “trendy” and “colorful.”
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German Village’s Book Loft is a fun maze of rooms just crammed full of interesting reading materials.
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Like many of the major cities we’ve visited, Columbus has a wonderful system of parks and green spaces. One of the more popular parks is the Scioto Audubon Metro Park with its climbing wall.

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Originally opened in 1928 as a movie palace, the Ohio Theater is known as the “Official Theater of the State of Ohio.” We had the pleasure of watching our granddaughter, Lucy, sing here with the Columbus Children’s Choir.
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For many, the top attraction here is the campus of the Ohio State University ...
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...where you can watch its world-renown marching band spell out “Ohio” in script.
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Aotea Center

4/27/2018

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Situated across the street from our apartment in Auckland was the Aotea Square and Performing Arts Center. The origins of the name for this cultural venue within the heart of the city -“Motu Aotea” - came from the Maori native peoples and means “Great Barrier Island”; a reference to the largest offshore island, approximately 56 miles from Auckland. Designs for the center were developed back in 1974, but it took more than a decade for construction to be completed. In addition to gallery spaces and function rooms, this venue houses a 2139 seat main auditorium, as well as a 186 seat smaller theater (for independent theatrical groups). During our stay in Auckland, the Center featured a temporary exhibition on “The Art of Banksy” - a famous British street artist, whose mysterious persona led some to believe that “Banksy” was really a group of street artists, rather than a single individual. The square in front of the Center also plays host to a number of performing art exhibitions, and we were fortunate to be here to experience the “Summer in the Square” festival.

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Looking across the square to the Aotea Performing Arts Center.
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On the edge of the square is this statue dedicated to Sir Dove-Myer Robinson, Mayor of the city of Auckland from 1959 to 1965 and from 1968 to 1980.
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Entering the main lobby of the Aotea Center, you begin to get a feel for what this venue has to offer.
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The 2139 seat ASB Auditorium is immense...
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...and provides a perfect venue for large scale performances...
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...while the more intimate 186 seat theater provides a suitable venue for independent performing groups.
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As a special presentation, The Aotea Center hosted a temporary exhibition on “”The Art of Banksy”...
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...a controversial British Street artist, who some folks feel is really a group of artists rather than a single individual.
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During our Auckland visit, we were fortunate to experience “The Summer in the Square” festival, during which performing artists ( such as this New Zealand Youth Symphony) from around the world...
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...including China...
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...and Malaysia.
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To add to the special nature of the Center’s venue, this Maori arch conspicuously stands at the entrance to the square.
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Symonds Street Cemetery

4/22/2018

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Here is another of those fortuitous finds we’ve had the good fortune to make. Named after Captain William Cornwallis Symonds, a prominent British Army officer during the early days of colonization of New Zealand (and who later went on to serve as Chief Magistrate of Auckland), the 14 acre Symonds Street Cemetery (established in 1842) was the first official burial ground in the city. Captain Symonds, who, by the way is not buried here, was related to General Charles Cornwallis who surrender to American troops at Yorktown, Va. at the end of the American Revolution. There is some archeological evidence suggesting that the area of the Symonds Street cemetery (also known as the Grafton Cemetery) had been used for Pre-European burials. Divided into four sections, based on religion(i.e. Anglican, Catholic, Jewish, and Presbyterian/Wesleyan), the Cemetery was closed to burials (other than to existing family plots) in1886, when a new municipal graveyard was created in West Auckland. In 1909, the Auckland City Council took over management of the Symonds Cemetery. With the development of the Auckland Southern Motorway during the 1960’s, 4100 bodies were moved and re-interned in other parts of the Cemetery, thus reducing the original size of the burial grounds by one-quarter. Among the early colonists buried here are William Hobson, first governor of New Zealand and co-author of the Treaty of Waitangi (as well as a close, personal friend of Captain Symonds); Archibold Clark, first mayor of the Auckland Borough Council; and Annie Jane Schanackenberg, missionary and sufferage activist.

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Tucked away on the western slope of Grafton Gully in Central Auckland, the Symonds Street cemetery was the first official cemetery in the city.
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Walking around this burial ground, you can easily forget there is a busy motorway on the other side of the gates.
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The gravestones that are readable provide some interesting insights into the history of the area...
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...while others are a little more difficult to decipher.
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Archival photos , such as this one from the 1880’s, help to fill in some of the historical facts.
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The most famous individual buried here is William Hobson...
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...the first governor of New Zealand and co-author of the Treaty of Waitangi.
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Hobson was also a close friend with Captain Symonds for whom this graveyard is named.
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St. Patrick’s Cathedral

4/17/2018

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Officially known as the “Cathedral of St. Patrick and St. Joseph,” this church sits on the original site granted by the British Crown to Jean Baptiste Pompallier -Auckland’s first bishop - in 1841. Opened in February of 1843, St. Patrick’s consisted of a small wooden chapel, a clergy house, and a school room, all of which was designed to minister to the 300 to 400 mostly Irish Catholics of Auckland at that time. Two years later, work began on a more permanent stone structure. In 1848, St. Patrick’s was designated as a Cathedral when Auckland was made a diocese, and the building had grown to accommodate 700 parishioners. Further expansions over the succeeding years brought the structure to its present form. One of the more notable additions was the Bell Tower, constructed between 1844 and 1845, which included bells brought from Rome. By 1908, it had been “...transformed from a modest structure to a large and impressive building befitting its status as a Catholic Cathedral of Auckland” (Peter Shaw’s 1993 biography of architects Edward and Thomas Mahoney). Today, while somewhat smaller than the immense Gothic Cathedrals found throughout Europe, St. Patrick’s is still architecturally beautiful. The Belgian stained glass windows add a sparkle and warmth to this Gothic Revival Church, which is reflected by the more than three thousand worshipers who attend services here each Sunday. This building is definitely worth a visit.

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Situated in the heart of Auckland’s Central Business District, on land granted by the British Crown in 1841, St. Patrick’s Cathedral is the mother church of Auckland’s Catholic community.
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Elegant in its simplicity, St. Patrick’s is well worth a visit.
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its simplicity carries through the main altar.
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1848 archive photo of the cathedral.
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Preserved in the floor in front of the main altar is this section of the west wall from the original 1848 Cathedral.
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By far, the most impressive part of the Cathedral (at least for us) were the magnificent Belgian stained glass windows.
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They are magnificent!
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Running a close second are the exquisitely carved wooden furniture pieces.
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Albert Park

4/15/2018

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Located in central Auckland, Albert Park sits beside “Ranipuke”, one of Auckland’s earliest volcanoes and occupies much of the original site of Albert Barracks (considered to be the earliest European military fortification in the city). Constructed by Maori stone masons between 1846 and 1847, using basalt quarried from Mt. Eden, the fort was believed ( by some) to have been built on the previous site of a Maori fortified village known as “Te Horotia Pa.” By 1865, the fort was abandoned and much of its stone structures were removed. Fifteen years later, the concept of a public park was developed and the park itself was laid out. Originally, before the advent of Auckland’s skyscrapers, the park had wonderful views of the city and harbor. A caertaker’s residence built during the 1880’s still stands in the eastern side of the park and is now used as a clock museum. Among the several artworks and memorials throughout the park are two large field guns that were once part of a defensive system set up during the “Russian Invasion Scare” of the 1880’s. These are located near the flagpole and Boer War Memorial. On the other side of the park is a statue of Queen Victoria. During World War II (1941), several air raid tunnels were constructed beneath the park. Most of these tunnels were filled in after the war. Today, this beautiful park offers a wonderful respite from the hectics of urban life.
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With Auckland University on one side and the central business district on the other, Albert Park is ideally situated
for visitors to realize a relaxing moment during the
​day.
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On the central business district side of the park, we found these stone structures that defied the imagination.
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During the 1880’s, Auckland worried about a possible Russian Invasion. These canons (next to the flagpole) were part of a defensive system set up to repelled any such invasion.
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That invasion never occurred.
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Officially, the centerpiece of the park is this fountain with a statue of Queen Victoria in the background ...
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...interestingly, we never found a statue of Prince Albert in the park named for him.
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...but we felt the real stars were the trees.
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They are magnificent!
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The original caretaker’s residence is now used as a clock museum.
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Every park we’ve visited had a gazebo.
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One of the unique items in the park is this flowered clock (and, yes, the clock hands are
missing).
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Auckland Art Gallery

4/13/2018

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Throughout the 1870’s, Auckland’s citizenry expressed the desire for a museum that would display works of art. However, the city council refused to allocate funding for any such project. When significant bequeaths were made by former New Zealand Governor Sir George Grey and philanthropist James Tannock Mackelvie in 1888, a combined art gallery and public library was established. This was the first permanent art gallery in New Zealand. The collection was originally dominated by the Old Masters of Europe. Following World War I, expansions of the facility included workshop spaces for art classes, along with studio spaces for several resident artists. In 2009, American investor, Julian Robertson donated $115 million dollars worth of art, which included works of Gauguin, Matise, Cezanne, Picasso, Dali, and several others. Today, the gallery has over 15,000 pieces of art from a wide variety of styles, periods, and media and is considered to be the premier gallery in Auckland.

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From its humble beginnings of donations from two prominent New Zealanders, to today’s more than 15,000 pieces of art, the Auckland Art Gallery is the premier public gallery in the city.
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Taken from the second floor balcony, this
​photo depicts how the building’s decor enhances the art works on display.

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Henri Gascard’s circa 1670 portrait of the Duchess of Portsmouth.

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John Weguelin’s 1886 “The Obsequies of an Egyptian Cat”
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A young, budding photographer captured an old “blossomed” photographer.
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One of the more interesting temporary exhibits in the gallery was “The Obliteration Room” by Yayoi Kusama.
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Visitors were given a sheet of self-adhesive circular stickers and encouraged to “decorate” whatever they wanted in the room...

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...walls, windows,...
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...sofas...
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...even tables, chairs and plates.
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This was definitely unique, but a lot of fun.
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The more traditional art, such as Jan Mytens’ 1663 piece of this family group by a fountain in the countryside, make up the bulk of the exhibits.
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Auckland Library

4/10/2018

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The very first library in Auckland, known as the Auckland Mechanics Institute, was created in 1842. By 1880, the Institute was in deep financial difficulties, so it was taken over by the local government. Seven years later, Sir George Grey (who had twice been governor of New Zealand, as well as its 11th Premier) donated eight thousand books to the library, ostensibly doubling the size of the library. At that time, the library was housed in what is now the Art Gallery, which also included the “Old Colonist Museum.” Shortly afterwards, a new building was constructed for the library and the art collection. The current, stand-alone central library building was opened in 1971. By 2010, seven separate councils in the Auckland region merged. As part of that merger, the Auckland public library system was created. Prior to this merger, the city libraries were a conglomeration of 17 separate libraries, along with a mobile unit, all of which were controlled by the city council. Today, with fifty-five branches, this is the largest public library network in the Southern Hemisphere. This network is home to a number of heritage and research collections, including a large microfilm collection of heritage newspapers, as well as a “...comprehensive collection of Maori, family history and local history published material.” The most important of these are the Sir George Grey Special Collections. Among its rare books is a 1623 copy of Shakespeare’s First Folio and Alexander Shaw’s “A Catalogue of the Different Species of Cloth Collected in the Three Voyages of Captain Cook” (aka “The Tapa-Cloth Book”) published in 1787. In addition, the most extensive Alexander Dumas collection outside of France was donated to the Auckland library by pharmacist, Frank Reed. Libraries are a great window into the life of a community. That’s why we love to visit them in each city to which we go. While not the single most impressive library we’ve visited, the Auckland Library surely was a wonderful find.

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While the Auckland Central Library has a modern look, its history dates back 176 years, to 1842.
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Even though it covers four full floors, it is easy to find your way around...
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...and there certainly is a lot to look at here.
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Even the magazine section is plentiful.
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There are newspapers from around the world.
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Our favorite part of every library we visit is the children’s section. How the library treats this area tells us a lot about the values system of the community.
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Some say that music CD’s are becoming extinct because of internet playlists. You certainly would not know it from the library’s collection.
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One unique feature at this library was the “Citizens Advice Bureau”, a sort of mini-Visitors Center.
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Devonport, NZ

4/7/2018

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The quaint 19th century village of Devonport is only a ten minute ferry ride from the center of Auckland. Many of the Victorian and Edwardian style buildings sit on the volcanic cone of North Head.

Forty thousand years ago, volcanic activity created thee island hills; Mount Victoria, North Head, and Mount Cambia (now pretty much quarried away). The earliest evidence of any kind of settlement was by the Maori during the middle of the fourteenth century. By the 1790’s , the last significant Maori village (then located on North Head) was destroyed by rival tribes. Approximately thirty years later (1827), James Dumont d’ Urville was the first European to visit the area. A harbormaster stationed on North Head in 1836 became the first “permanent” resident. Originally called “Flagstaff,”( because of a flagstaff that was raised on top of nearby Mount Victoria), the first European suburb was established on this peninsula four years later, making it one of the oldest colonies in Auckland. For the first fifty years, this colony was geographically isolated from the rest of the North Shore, with only a thin strip of land through the swamps which connected it with the rest of the peninsula. Because of this, the locals nicknamed the area, “The Island.” By the late 19th century, the Mangrove swamps were filled in to create a more permanent link with the North Shore. In 1859, Flagstaff was renamed “Devonport” after the English Naval town of the same name. The Calliope dock was created in Story Bay during February of 1888. At the time, this was the longest dock in the Southern Hemisphere. Among the many modern-day famous who have called Devonport home are Sir Peter Blake (of America’s Cup fame); the pop recording artist, Lorde; and artist, Mary Taylor. For a truly fantastic view of 19th century New Zealand life, Devonport is a tourist delight.

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Originally established as “Flagstaff” in 1840, the village of Devonport provides an interesting perspective on 19th century New Zealand life..,
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...and is only a ten minute ferry ride from downtown Auckland.
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This quaint village was a photographer’s delight.
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There are so many architecturally stunning buildings...
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...and, while the many Victorian and Edwardian styled homes are fantastic to look at, so are their prices (most going for well over a million dollars each).
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Forty thousand years ago, this area was created by volcanic activity, leaving a number prominent hills behind. The most notable being Mount Victoria.
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From atop Mount Victoria, the view back towards Auckland is wonderful.
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The day of our visit was absolutely gorgeous, adding an extra delight to our time there.
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At one time, Mount Victoria played host to a fort (the circular structure in the middle of this photo was a gun-mount).
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While the canons were never fired in anger, practice rounds shook the town so badly that the residents complained vociferously.
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At one time, the Calliope Dock seen here was the longest in the Southern Hemisphere.
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Devonport plus host to the New Zealand Naval base. Taken in 1942, this photo depicts some of the activity at the base during World War II.
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Throughout New Zealand and Australia, we have been impressed by the many unusual tree structures found.
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New Zealand National Maritime Museum

4/5/2018

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New Zealand is one of the most geographically isolated island nations in the world and, as such, has a strong connection with the ocean. So, it is not surprising that there would be a museum here which is dedicated to New Zealand’s maritime history, from the first explorers and settlers to present day achievements (such as the 1995 America’s Cup victory). Appropriately located on Hobson’s Wharf in Auckland’s Viaduct harbor, this museum is home to New Zealand’s largest maritime collection. In the language of the Maori, the museum is known as “Te Huiteanaui-A-Tangarora”, meaning “Holder of the Treasures of Tangarora (The Sea God).” According to an “orthodox” version of a Maori myth, the great chief, Kupe, first discovered New Zealand in 925. Later, several waves of Polynesian settlers followed Kupe’s route and populated the island nation. Centuries later, a group, composed of members of the Auckland Harbor Board and the Union Steamship company proposed the creation of a maritime museum (around 1980). This was to be the first, and only, museum that would deal with New Zealand’s maritime history as a whole. By 1993, construction of the building was completed and it officially opened (coincidentally during the same year that the America’s Cup Regatta was being held in Auckland). The building houses several preserved historical ships. In addition, outside are a number of still sea-worthy vessels that sail about the harbor with visitors who are interested in such journeys. By 1996, the name of the museum was changed to the “New Zealand National Maritime Museum.” What makes this site an even more interesting place to visit is that while standing on the upper floors of this history-laden structure, one can look to a neighboring wharf and see the massive present-day cruise ships docked in the harbor. The old and the new, side by side.

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Situated on Hobson’s Wharf in Auckland harbor, this museum houses New Zealand’s largest maritime collection.
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Even as you approach the main entrance, full-scale exhibits are visible.
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A thousand years ago, Polynesian explorers and settlers crossed the Pacific in boats similar to this one to populate what is now New Zealand.
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The early Maori settlers used many types of sailing vessels for exploring both the coast and inland waterways.
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Being a warrior culture, the Maori also developed war canoes
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By the 19th century, immigrants were flooding into New Zealand from all over the world.
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Most of their accommodations were not very luxurious.
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With the influx of so many sailing vessels, shipwrecks were inevitable, especially near the bleak, sub-Antarctic islands to the south. In order to provide assistance to marooned mariners, the New Zealand government set up what they called “Castaway depots” containing boats like this one, shelter, food, fuel, and clothing.
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In 1995,Team New Zealand won the America’s Cup under the leadership of Peter Blake.
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A short distance from the museum, modern day cruise ships dock in Auckland, providing visitors with a glimpse of the new versus the old.
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Maori Festival

4/3/2018

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New Zealand embraces and promotes its indigenous peoples’ heritage and culture (although, it was not always this way). As part of this acknowledgment, a Maori Festival , exploring its history and contemporary culture, is held annually during the “Auckland Anniversary Weekend.” This three day free event along the waterfront exhibits the music, games, crafts, workshops, and storytelling of the nineteen “Iwi” (tribal groups) of New Zealand. The Maori ( which means “normal”, “natural”, or “ordinary”) were indigenous peoples of Eastern Polynesia who traveled to what is now New Zealand in several waves between 1250 and 1300 - with the peak being around 1280. The original population of Polynesia was thought to have been Taiwanese aboriginals who explored the Pacific approximately 5200 years ago. The early Maori of New Zealand formed tribal groups based upon Eastern Polynesian social customs and organizations, including a prominent warrior culture. With the arrival of the Europeans during the 17th century, tremendous changes occurred within the Maori’s way of life. In the beginning, these two diverse cultures appeared to get along. The 1840 Treaty of Waitangi showed that the two could exist together in the new British colony. However, in the 1860’s, disputes over land sales led to increasing conflicts and eventually the “New Zealand Wars.” Most of the lands confiscated by New Zealand during these wars were later returned to the Maori, or compensation made. Since the end of the New Zealand Wars, a growing acceptance of the Maori culture has developed.

For centuries, the Maori have had a great love and respect for the fertile lands of their ancestors, believing that the earth is the giver of all life. This weekend festival explores those beliefs and attempts to promote further harmony among all the peoples of New Zealand.

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Held in conjunction with the Auckland Anniversary Weekend, The Maori Festival allows visitors to explore and enjoy everything Maori.
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Held along Auckland’s waterfront...
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...the festival exhibited music...
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...crafts (such as traditional basket weaving)...
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...exquisite wood carvings...
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...food (lots of food)...
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...even traditional Maori tattooing.
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There was even a parade of Maori “Wakas” (canoes) in which visitors could take part...
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...after learning the proper paddling techniques.
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One of the thrills for us was having a ride on a sea-going Maori Waka.
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This was a one hour sail out into the Auckland bay.
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What was truly amazing was watching the many Maori “Hakas” - traditional ceremonial dances.
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Some if them told the Maori’s story of creation..
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...while others were used by warriors prior to battle in an effort to intimidate their enemies.
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Two new honorary warrior members of the Maori .
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    Carl and Lorraine  Aveni are two retirees planning on traveling through Europe for at least one year.

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