Along the western side of the Corrib River, where it meets Galway Bay, is the village of “Claddagh” (which means “the shore”). Originally, just a small fishing village outside the old city walls of Galway, opposite the “Spanish Arch” ( the area where regular fish markets were held), the village even had its own king. Established somewhere around the fifth century, this is the oldest former fishing village in all of Ireland.
At its height, Claddagh had 468 thatched cottages, which were home to 500 families of fishermen who plied their trade sailing in the famous “Galway Hooker” boats. Gradually, younger generations moved out of Claddagh for “big city life” in Galway, causing a decline in the fishing industry that had sustained the village. In 1927, a tuberculosis outbreak hit the village hard. Deemed to be a health hazard, an order was given to evacuate the village and have all the thatched cottages razed (eventually to be replaced by more modern homes). The last of the original thatched cottages was destroyed in 1934.
Claddagh still has a “king”, elected by the populace on an annual basis. The last “true” king, Martin Oliver, died in 1972. Today’s Claddagh king serves just a ceremonial role.
Claddagh is most famous for its wonderful namesake ring. Legend has it that over 400 years ago, a young man, by the name of Richard Joyce, was kidnapped by pirates while he was on his way to the West Indies. He was eventually sold to a rich goldsmith, who taught him the craft of Jewelry making. Upon his release, Joyce returned to Galway and set up his own shop. Soon, he began designing his own jewelry, including the famous Claddagh ring. His design of the ring included three elements; a heart, intended to represent love; topped by a crown to represent loyalty; and surrounded by hands to represent friendship. As the ring’s reputation grew, folks began to use it to signify their marital status - i.e. with the heart pointing out towards the finger tips, it indicated the person was single (and looking for love); with it pointing up the arm to the person’s own heart, it indicated that they had found love and were married. Tradition has it that you can not buy a Claddagh Ring for yourself. Someone who loves you has to give it to you. Many times, Claddagh Rings are passed down through succeeding generations.
The oldest existing Claddagh ring jeweler in Galway is the Thomas Dillon shop (established in 1750) in the city’s Latin Quarter. It includes a small museum depicting the history of the ring down through the centuries. This shop is a fun place just to visit, unless, of course, you’re also in the market to buy the love of your life a Claddagh ring.

Claddagh,established circa 5th century, is the oldest former fishing village in Ireland.

Because of its location at the confluence of the Corrib River and Galway Bay, Claddagh’s early history was centered around fishing.

At the height of Claddagh’s fishing industry, the famous Galway Hooker boats, with their distinctive red sails, were all over Galway Bay.

Afterwards, the women of Claddagh would take the day’s catch to the Galway fish markets...

...located across the river at the Spanish Arch ( part of the old city defensive walls).

A couple of blocks from the river’s edge, is “Katie’s Claddagh Cottage”...

...depicting how Claddagh’s Thatched Cottages looked 200 years ago.

Unfortunately, in 1927, a tuberculosis outbreak devastated the area, causing authorities to determine the Thatched Cottages posed a health hazard and ordered them to be torn down.

Of course, for most of the world, Claddagh is most famous for its namesake ring, The Claddagh Ring.

The oldest existing Claddagh Ring Jeweler in Galway is the Thomas Dillon shop (established in 1750) in the Latin Quarter of Galway.

In the back of the shop is a small museum depicting the process of making the ring...

...along with displays of Claddagh Rings made over the centuries.

Our travels over the past 4 1/2 years have provided us some truly unique experiences. Perhaps, one of the most distinctive was the tiny “Fisheries Watch Tower” in Galway City. Located on the Wolfe Tone Bridge, near the mouth of the Corrib River, it is between Galway’s Latin Quarter and the neighborhood of Claddagh.
Constructed between 1852 and 1853 by the Ashworth family, this mid-to-late Victorian building is the only one of its kind in all of Ireland and is one of Galway’s most historic landmarks. Originally designed as a draft-netting station (in which a net is anchored at one end on shore, with the opposite end pulled along by a row boat), it served as a means of monitoring fish levels in the river, as well as to watch for illegal fishing (at the time, this part of the river was privately owned, meaning fishing could only be done by permit).
This free standing, three-story building was in use until the 1970’s when commercial fishing began to die off. Its ground floor was constructed with stone, while the upper floors were built with recycled bricks that had been used as ballast on in-coming cargo ships. The bricks had been dumped on the quays so new cargo could loaded onto the ships. The bricks were then re-used to construct nearby buildings.
​ Today, the tower Is the smallest museum in Galway and depicts the history of fishing in the city. Admission to the museum is free.

Built in the mid-1800’s, the Fisheries Watch Tower sits along the banks of the river Corrib at the Wolfe Tone Bridge (which connects Galway’s Latin Quarter with the neighborhood of Claddagh).

As a draft-netting station, the Watch Tower monitored fish levels in the river...

...since commercial fishing along this part of the river (by permit only) was one of the main industries of the city - at least until the 1970’s. Personal fishing is still allowed.

Salmon (some weighing as much as 40 pounds) are the most common fish taken from the river.

Looking out towards Galway Bay (across the Wolfe Tone Bridge) from the Watch Tower’s third floor.

Most people recognize this photo as one of the most iconic images taken during the Great Depression. Known as “Lunch Atop A Skyscraper,” it depicts eleven construction workers taking a lunch break from building part of the Rockefeller Center complex (in this case, the RCA building) while sitting on a steel beam 850 feet (the 69th floor) above the New York skyline. Published by the New York Herald Tribune on October 2, 1932, it was attributed to noted photographer, Charles E. Ebbets.
During the Depression, this construction project employed over 40,000 folks (mostly Irish emigrants) to perform the various tasks required, making it the second largest employer in the country, after the U.S.Government’s Work Projects Administration (WPA).
​ One of the legends about this picture was that it was a somewhat staged publicity stunt. The construction company hired a number of well known photographers (including Ebbets) to chronicle the building of this structure. Ebbets apparently saw these men eating their lunches on the beam and thought it would make a great picture. After he had set up his camera and turned around, the men were leaving. He had to gather them back up, pose them again, and take the photo.

This follow-up photo of the men waving, has been rarely seen...

...as had this one of them apparently napping.

Ebbets and his fellow photographers had to be as daring as the construction workers in order to get their pictures.

So, what is the connection between the “Lunch Atop A Skyscraper” photograph and our travels to Galway? Ten of these construction workers pictured were Irish emigrants (the 11th being a Mohawk Native American). Of these ten Irishmen, the ones on both ends of the line were Lori’s great uncles. The gentleman on the far right, with the bottle, is Patrick “Sonny” Glynn, and the one on the far left (with the cigarette) is Matty O’Shaughnessy. Glynn and O’Shaughnessy were brothers-in-law to each other and from adjoining farms in the tiny village of Shanaglish, county Galway. They emigrated to New York in the early 1920’s.

While discussing the photo with Lori’s cousin, Pat Glynn (son of the man with the bottle), we learned that a copy was hanging in a pub in the village of Shanaglish with a notation stating “Local lads made good in New York City ” Since we were in Galway, finding the pub in Shanaglish would be a possibility . As it happened, two days into our visit, while having breakfast in the Revive Cafe of Galway City, we met a woman and her adult daughter who were familiar with the area. The daughter stated she had a friend that ran a pub in Shanaglish and felt this friend could tell us where in the village, the pub was located. Calling her friend up immediately, the daughter informed us that the picture was in the friend’s pub - Whelen’s Pub - and she was looking at it that very moment. What a coincidence!

After doing some research on how to get to Shanaglish, a few days later, we were on a bus to the town of Gort (the closest bus stop to the village) and then hired a taxi to take us the five miles to Whelen’s pub. Now, our previous experiences with “small” villages around the world, led us to believe Shanaglish would include the pub, perhaps a general store/post office combination, a church, and a few other commercial properties.

Gort city center, the nearest bus stop to Shanaglish.

When we arrived in Shanaglish, what a surprise we got! This village was just a wide space in the road, with only the pub on it, a few residential properties, and a church down the street (and the pub was not open as their opening time was 5:00 pm.

Our destination, Shanaglish’s Whelen’s pub.

Fortune was again smiling upon us, as Lori was able to find a neighbor, who called the pub’s owner to get permission to retrieve a key and let us in, so we could take pictures. Additionally, the taxi driver was willing to wait around to bring us back to Gort and not strand us in the village. While it would have been nice to be in the pub while it was open and interact with folks who might have known Lori’s great uncles, it was a joy to at least get into the pub and take our own photos.

Inside Whelen’s pub, built in 1865.

We wanted to visit Whelen’s Pub in order to see this photo.

Above this picture is a note from Lori’s cousin, Pat Glynn , identifying “Sonny” Glynn and Matty O’Shaughnessy. We realize the printing is small and hard to read. If your device allows it , zoom in on the printing to enlarge it.

An additional interesting fact about the photo at the top of this posting is that we found it (billboard size) in an alley in Istanbul, Turkey (if you look closely, you will notice a chair and a broom that belonged to a restaurant across the alley, as well as the edges of a door passing through the face of Sonny Glynn - the man with the bottle - which gives some perspective how huge this photo was).

During the early summer (May/June) of 2018, National Graphic put out an issue chronicling Depression era construction in New York City. As part of that issue, National Geographic presented an article on the “Lunch Atop A Skyscraper” photo in which they identified Lori’s great uncles.

The Burkes (de Burgh) were one of the most important and influential families in Galway. . Descending from William de Burgh (brother of “...the most powerful man in England, next to King John.”), they could also trace their roots in a direct line to Charlemagne. During the 13th century, William’s son, Richard, built a castle along a strategic crossing point on the Corrib River, known as “Terryland” (locals called it the “Old Castle”). At the same time, another castle existed on the opposite side of the river (nothing remains of this other castle). From the 17th century onwards, the castle ( now under the ownership of the Earls of Clanricarde) renovations made it more of a fortified home than a castle, as it became involved in at least three conflicts; (1) in 1641, it was garrisoned during a rebellion; (2) it again housed troops during the Cromwellian Wars of 1652; (3) and in 1691, it was defended by joint Irish and French troops from a Williamite Army during a war between Ireland and supporters of Dutch Protestant Prince William of Orange (following a brief skirmish, the joint forces set fire to the castle and retreated to the walled city of Galway). A devastating fire in 1961 further destroyed the castle to its current ruined state.
Recent archeological excavations of the site discovered artifacts and human remains that may have emanated from the 17th century conflicts (an alternative explanation put forth the supposition that the remains were from private family burials. Visitors can visit the Terryland castle ruins as part of 36 mile route of old castles along the Corrib River and lake.

The remains of the 900 year old Terryland Castle.

It is hard to determine from these ruins, just how large this castle was during its heyday.

For those adventurous souls who enjoy history, the castle route around the river and lake can be quite entertaining.

While constructing a new access ramp to Dyke road (next to the castle) 500 year old human remains and historical artifacts were uncovered (photo of Dr. Lynch explaining the archeological finds - courtesy of the Galway Advertiser). They are believed to have been buried there following the 17th century conflicts mentioned above (although some think they may have been part of a private Burke family burial grounds).

Nestled along the banks of the Corrib River, on the grounds of the National University of Ireland-Galway (NUIG) opposite Menlo Castle, is a small building known as “Martin’s Tea House Folly.” Built during the 19th century, this was once part of the powerful Martin family’s Dangan House residence (itself built in 1684).
The Martins, considered to be descendants of Sir Oliver Martyn - a “high commander in King Richard II’s Crusading Army - were one of the14 original tribes of Galway (prominent merchant and political families who became so intertwined by marriage, many looked upon them as “one big family”). They constructed the small tea house by the River Corrib, ostensibly to watch activities on the water during afternoon tea. However, many felt it was to show contempt at the Blake family who owned Menlo Castle on the opposite bank. Just why this supposed animosity between the two families existed has been lost to history.
One of the more prominent members of the family was Richard Martin (born in 1754) who was elected to parliament in 1800, representing County Galway, and who was said to have been “... a noted duelist and a witty speaker.” He was most famous for creating and founding the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, earning him the nickname of “Humanity Dick.”
From 1839 until 1844, Dangan House became the property of the Ursuline Order of Nuns. The property then passed through several owners, before the house was moved elsewhere to become a hotel and NUIG took ownership of the land. The only thing left of the original estate are the Tea House ruins.
While exploring the neighborhood around our apartment, we met some very nice locals who told us of the scenic pathway along the river. During our walk along this pathway, we came upon the Tea House ruins; another one of our unexpected happenstance discoveries.

Ruins of the Martin family’s Tea House, the only remaining structure of their massive Dangan House estate.

Martin Family Coat of Arms.

Archival aerial view of the Martin’s family home, Dangan House. It no longer exists on the property (having been moved elsewhere in order to be transformed into a hotel).

The pathway along the river, leading up to the Tea House, was quite picturesque.

Inside the Tea House by what appeared to be a fireplace...

...and what we assumed was a serving area for the tea.

In 1569, Menlo Castle was constructed along the Corrib River, just below Lake Corrib. For three hundred years, the Blake family owned this castle. One of the original fourteen tribes of Galway, the Blakes were the richest family in the city, owning property not only in County Galway, but also in Counties Clare and Mayo.
Reportedly descended from Sir Richard Caddell, a 12th century knight of Norman-Welsh extraction, the Blake’s regularly filled the roles of Mayor and Alderman in Galway, making them the most influential family in the city. According to records, the family were raised to the level of Baronets in 1623 and given a land grant totalling 3,478 acres in three counties. They were quite popular amongst the locals, often hosting the “Naying in Menlo” festivals for the public on their grounds, which included music, dancing, tennis, and rowing.
On the night of June 26th, 1910, while Sir Valentine (the 14th Blake Baronet) and Lady Blake were away in Dublin, a devastating fire broke out in the castle, eventually causing the deaths of two maids and the Blake’s disabled daughter, Eleanor. The fire was so hot that Eleanor’s body was never found; presumed to have been cremated.
Today, only the ivy covered ruined walls remain, but it is still one of Galway’s top tourist attractions. It should be pointed out that there have been reports of travelers who used Google maps to get to the the castle found themselves on the wrong side of the river.The proper route to take begins downstream along the road by Terryland Castle (there are little or no sidewalks, so caution is needed if walking). Once you get to the edge of the property, a locked gate bars the way. Locals informed us that simply climbing over the gate is allowable (trespassing does not appear to be an issue as there are no signs saying “Do Not Enter”). During our stay, we saw many folks exploring the grounds and even camping next to the castle. And we could see why, it is a beautiful place.

We were on the opposite side of the river (near the National University of Ireland, Galway -NUIG) when we first spotted Menlo Castle.

The fact that the river tourist boats made a point of going by the castle, only peaked our interest more,

Apptoaching the castle estate, we were met by this gatehouse.

Our next obstacle was this locked gate across the road. Looking all around, we could not find any signs saying “Do Not Enter,” Speaking with locals, we learned that folks regularly climbed the fence to enter the grounds without any issues.

Finally, we are here,

Imagine what this was like during its heyday?

It must have been amazing!

Sir Carl and Lady Lorraine surveying their domain (Lol).

He doesn’t look very Baron-like, but he has the wave down.

We certainly can understand why folks like to camp here. It is a beautiful place!

Menlo “Advertiser’s” 1910 photo of the fire that destroyed the castle.

The only photo we could find of the castle BEFORE the fire was this old postcard.

Built in 1818, the Salmon Weir Bridge is the oldest surviving structure over the Corrib River. Its original purpose was to link the county courthouse on the mainland to the County Gaol (jail) on Nun’s Island, as well as to connect with the main road to Connemara.
Between April and July, folks on the bridge can watch salmon fight their way upstream to their traditional spawning grounds in Lough Corrib. This is one of the prime salmon fisheries in Ireland, and one of the largest (thus, the name of the bridge). During this period, anglers can be seen standing in the waters, hoping to catch their share of salmon ( after purchasing a permit, of course).
The weir itself is a low dam (constructed from stone and wood in the beginning) in order to regulate water levels (up to four million gallons per second at full flood, and one hundred thousand gallons per second at low flood). However, only two of the original sixteen gates remain. Between 1952 and 1959, the river was drained in order to re-construct the present weir.
Every day, we crossed this bridge on our way to the city center and we would spot upwards to half-a-dozen fishermen trying their luck with the salmon. We never saw anyone catch a fish (the salmon seemed to be on to the trap).

The Salmon Weir Bridge was built 101 years ago, to connect the county courthouse with the site of the county jail (now the Galway Cathedral) on Nun’s Island.

From the bridge, you can see the weir (dam) in the distance. While it was originally built in 1818, it was re-constructed between 1952 and 1959.

Everyday, during our stay, we watched as fishermen cast their lures in an effort to catch some salmon.

Unfortunately, we never saw anyone catch anything. Surely, they must have been successful, or they would not have been out there everyday.

One of the few brief moments that we were able to catch the bridge without any traffic on it.