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Another "You know you are in..."

1/27/2016

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Again, we like to write what is unique about the places we visit, sometimes with tongue-in-cheek. As we get ready to leave Texas, it is time to say..."You know you are in San Antonio when..."

1) Stetson 10 gallon hats are worn everywhere;

2) People on the streets are packing guns in fancy holsters;

3) Signs disallowing guns are posted outside everyday establishments;

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4) Pointed leather cowboy boots can be seen constantly;

5) People refer the Texas as "The Great State of Texas";

6) It seems that every other person is of Mexican descent;

7) There is a river with a gazillion restaurants along it, running through the center of town;

8) The bus drivers actually are extremely friendly, helpful, and knowledgeable;

9) Airport style security is evident even to enter the post office;

10) Food, dancing, dress, street signs, music, and architecture all have a Mexican influence.

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San Antonio Riverwalk

1/27/2016

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  Running through the heart of downtown San Antonio is a 2.5 mile network of walkways along part of the San Antonio river. Known as the "Riverwalk" (Paseo del Rio), it is "...one of the most visited places in all of Texas." Following a 1921 flood that devastated the downtown area, architect Robert Hugman submitted plans for a "...below street level..." flood control system that would also serve as a tourist attraction. This beautiful development of two parallel sidewalks, which wind and loop under several bridges (each unique from the others), connects many of the major attractions in downtown San Antonio, and is lined with a plethora of restaurants and pubs. Perhaps one of the unique features we discovered while exploring the Riverwalk is that an annual "Mud Festival" is held during which this diversion of the San Antonio river is drained and the whole system is cleaned out.

  The Riverwalk along the Savannah river was 1/4 mile wide and deep enough to accommodate full-sized cargo ships. The one here in San Antonio is about fifty feet wide and can only accommodate flat-bottomed tourist boats (a forty minute non-stop ride) and commuter water taxis.

  The stonework of each of the bridges along the Riverwalk reflect the architecture of the surrounding neighborhoods. We spent two days walking and exploring all that the Riverwalk had to offer. It was time well spent.

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Part of the San Antonio Riverwalk with its tourist and commuter taxi boats.
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There were many ducks inhabiting the river.
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Many decorative fountains pulled water from the river and then fed it back in again.
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It seemed that every few steps along the Riverwalk there was another restaurant...
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...and some provided entertainment.
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One of the curved steps leading up to street level.
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Monument to Robert Hugman, architect of the Riverwalk.
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The foliage around the walkway was beautiful.
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Vaquero and longhorn steers sculpture outside the Briscoe Western Art museum along the river's edge.
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This waterfall is also located next to the Briscoe Art Museum.
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This one was outside the St. Mary's Institute.
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Each bridge over the river was unique from the others.
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There were even mission bells decorating part of the Riverwalk.
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These tiled steps led up to La Villita (The Village), one of the neighborhoods along the river.
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There were plain bridges...
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...and fancy, elaborate ones.
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Mission San Jose

1/26/2016

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  Continuing our exploration of the San Antonio missions, we traveled a short three miles south of Mission Concepcion to visit the "Queen of the Missions" - San Jose. This largest of the San Antonio missions was founded in 1720, but construction of the limestone church itself (in the Spanish colonial Baroque style) was not started until 1768. The complex was officially declared completed in 1782. All of the missions were not just churches, but also communities. At its peak, San Jose supported 350 native Americans, in addition to thousands of live stock. This is the best preserved of the missions we have visited, thanks, in part, to the efforts of the Work Projects Administration (WPA) during the FDR era. As we walked the grounds, it was not hard for us to envision what daily life must have been like here in the 1700's. The two-room apartments along the outside walls where 84 native American families lived; the shere number of stone baking ovens strategically placed next to the living quarters; the number of wells within the compound; and the immensity of the complex itself, were all stunning. Yet, life was quite regimented; daily religious instructions; worship three times per day; plus all the work need to feed, clothe, and raise families. Guards on horseback continually kept guard outside the walls against hostilities from raiding Apaches or Comanches. We were thrilled and delighted to have had the chance to spend time here.

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The "Queen of the Missions" - San Jose.
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The main entrance to the limestone church.
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The south gate entrance to the complex. This was one of five such gates to the compound.
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Artist rendition of what the grounds looked like after construction was completed.
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Approximately 350 native Americans lived in 84 two-room apartments along the perimeter walls.
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Inside one of the corner defensive works of the mission/fort.
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Many stone baking ovens were located beside the "apartments".
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Five wells stationed around the compound provided water for the residents.
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While affirmative documentation as to who created this "Rose Window" no longer exists, folklore says that a carpenter from Spain, Pedro Huizar, carved it "...as a monument to his sweetheart, Rosa."
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The main altar in the mission church.
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Just outside the north gate is the Acequina that diverted waters from the San Antonio river to irrigate the fields, and the mill that ground the wheat into flour.
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Part of the mill works on the upper level. The lower level (not open to the public) contained the grinding wheel.
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Looking across the compound towards the mission church.
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Mission Concepcion

1/25/2016

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A number of times throughout this adventure, we have indicated that history is important to us and we make a strong effort to visit as many historic sites as possible. During our earlier trip to the Alamo (officially known as Mission San Antonio de Valero), we learned that it was part of a Spanish colonial complex of five missions. These "waypoint missions" were designed to support those further out on the eastern Texas border that separated the Spanish colonies from those of the French in Louisiana. During the period of 1718 to 1731, with tensions growing between France and Spain over colonization of the whole area, the missions served as forts, as well as centers for spreading the Catholic faith. Just a few miles south of the Alamo ( a 15 minute bus ride on the #42) is Mission Concepcion. At 250 years of age, this is one of the country's oldest original stone churches.

Imagine the daily life of the Coahuiltecan native Americans. Every minute of every day, from sun-up to sun-down, was spent in search of food. Teaching them skills like agriculture, animal husbandry, masonry, carpentry, and black-smithing, the missions provided the natives an easier way of life. But it came at a cost - conversion to Catholicism and a loss of their native identity (e.g. their religion, language, culture - even the way they dressed was in question, etc.). Because many felt that this trade-off was too high, over time, as much as 70% of the population returned to their native ways.

Today, Mission San Antonio de Valero (the Alamo) is owned by the state of Texas, while Mission Concepcion and the other missions are under the auspices of the San Antonio Missions National Historic Park.

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Front view of the mission church. According to old documents, the area immediately in front of the church was a burial ground. While the grave markers are gone, many believe the graves themselves are still intact. Excavation of the burial area has never been done.
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Artist rendition of the original layout of Mission Concepcion (which also served as a fort, school, farm and ranch). The wall enclosure is no longer there.
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Many ornate carvings adorn the frame of the main church door.
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Frescos inside the mission often depicted images to which the natives could relate (e.g. Sun God).
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The main altar inside the church proper.
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The side altar with our volunteer docent guide.
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Above the sacristy was the office of the head friar. These were the steps leading up to the office. That area was not open to the public.
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The mission as seen through the remains of the complex's kitchen.
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Buckhorn Saloon and Museum

1/23/2016

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  During our early exploration of downtown San Antonio, we passed the Buckhorn Saloon and Museum. Two things grabbed our immediate attention; the outside sign claimed it to be the oldest saloon in Texas, and it said there were two museums in one. We love things and places that pique our interest, and this certainly did that. So, exploring it was a must.

  Albert Friedrich established the Buckhorn Saloon in 1881. Friedrich continued his father's hobby of collecting animal horns and antlers, then turning them into furniture. He would offer a free beer to anyone who brought in an antler. Not to be outdone, Friedrich's wife, Emile, started her own collection, rattles from rattlesnakes, and turned them into her unique art form. In addition to the horn and rattle collections are taxidermied animals from around the world. According to legend, Teddy Roosevelt supposedly recruited some of his Rough Riders here, as well as in the nearby Menger hotel. Many of the original furnishings are still here, including the back bar (at the time of its peak operation, the saloon was segregated).

  The Buckhorn also houses the Texas Ranger museum with artifacts from the origins of the Texas Rangers until today. The backroom bar is centered in an area known as "Ranger Town" ; a re-creation of San Antonio as it was in 1900. Located in the same area is a replica of the Bonnie and Clyde getaway car - a 1934 Ford V8 Deluxe ( the original is in the Ranger museum in Laramie). We spent two delightful days exploring both museums and its lunch cafe.

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Street view of the entrance to the saloon/museums. One of the other things that grabbed our attention were the animal heads attached to the outside of the building.
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View of the bar area and some of the animal heads on the wall.
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"Buffalo Bob" greets everyone who enters and briefs them on the saloon and the museums.
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Portrait of Albert Friedrich, founder of the Buckhorn.
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Winchester model 1870 Caliber 50-95 rifle presented to Buffalo Bill Cody in England by Queen Victoria, while he was on tour in the 1880's.
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India display of a tiger and cobra.
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The Tree of Life - depicting all the animals of Thailand - carved from a single piece of Teakwood by Kon Prayet. It took him 18 months to complete this project.
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Rattlesnakes are common in Texas.
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Friedrich's wife, Emile, collected rattlesnake rattles to create her own unique art.
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Entrance to the Texas Ranger Museum.
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Chuck wagon circa 1900.
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Newspaper office in "Texas Ranger Town."
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The segregated backroom bar that any group other than Caucasian were forced to use in the early days of the saloon.
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Replica of the 1934 Bonnie and Clyde car.
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The OCTA-TETRA Museum

1/23/2016

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On Friday, Lori and I had an unusual adventure. We were invited to visit a privately owned math museum. Its name is "The OCTA-TETRA"; Dan Suttin is the math wizard who created this unique space. We could hardly believe our eyes! All we could think of was the phrase, "math eye candy!" The room was filled with multitudes of geometric structures on tables and hanging from the ceiling. This place is an explosion of math. Dan, the owner/proprietor, believes in a hands-on approach. Many of the visitors are encouraged to create a geometric sculpture of their own. This museum is a popular San Antonio field trip destination for classrooms of students ages 9 and up. One wall is named "The Great Wall". On it are quotes encouraging the reader to understand the relationship between math and all other aspects of life. It reminded me of a question often asked by Donna Haymes (one of Lori's former principals), "See the math?" Also on the wall were pictures of various structures that both he and his students made. Dan's mission is:

  1). To inspire future architects, engineers, designers, artists, and mathematicians to pursue educations and careers in those fields;

  2). To advance the understanding that the above-named fields of endeavor are not mutually exclusive, but rather that they may overlap significantly;

  3). To celebrate creativity in all of the arts.

  We felt that it was both an honor and a privilege to be invited into the realm of Dan Suttin and his OCTA-TETRA Museum.

    Link:

          YouTube/Math, paper, scissors

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Entrance to the OCTA-TETRA Museum.
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Dan Suttin, owner/proprietor of the museum, displaying one of his creations.
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Some of the sources of his inspiration.
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Long view of the museum.
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News article about the museum.
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The "Great Wall".
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Albert Einstein is one of Dan's main inspirations.
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Another inspiration for Dan is Steve Jobs.
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More creations. The multi-colored sculpture hanging from the ceiling is made from balsa sticks glued together.
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After Dan had seen the Prague Astronomical clock, he took a picture of the faceplate, bought a cheap clock at IKEA and pasted the faceplate picture on the clock. VoilĂ !
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One of the larger creations is the Jack-in-the-Box house.
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A surprise photo on one of the museum's walls- part of the reason Dan invited us to the museum after our first meeting. We had told him of this picture, at which point he smiled and said... "You have to come to my museum and see what I have on display there."
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San Antonio

1/19/2016

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In order to continue our quest to avoid the snows of winter, we are now in San Antonio (the second most populated city in Texas). The early 1600's Spanish missionaries named this settlement after Saint Anthony of Padua because it was founded on St. Anthony's feast day. No trip here would be complete without a visit to the 1836 battlefield known as The Alamo - one of five missions that comprise the Mission National Historic Park.

thealamo.org

While we were thrilled to be able to visit this "Shrine of Texas Liberty", it was surprising to see how little of the original complex still remains and how commercialized the surrounding area has become. A few points to know: In its 300 year history, the Alamo existed under 6 flags of independent nations and served as a garrison for 5 different armies; among the defenders of the mission San Antonio de Valero were immigrants from six foreign countries (Scotland, Ireland, England, Germany, Spain, and Denmark) because the government had offered land grants to anyone who settled there. Thus, they felt they had to protect their land from Santa Anna's dictatorship. We had a wonderful time.

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Unique local fauna seen along many streets.
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Part of the historic Riverwalk.
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Located in downtown San Antonio is the "Homeless Jesus" sculpture by Timothy Schmaltz.
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The historic 1918 Burns building, located at one corner of the Alamo complex.
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The mission San Antonio de Valero, aka the Alamo.
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According to legend, Lt. Col. William Travis drew this line in front of the mission church, to see who would stand with him to defend the Alamo.
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One of the Texan re-enactors regaling us with lots of details about the 1836 battle.
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There also were re-enactors dressed in period Mexican military uniforms.
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Model of the original mission complex: the large rectangular walled area in front of the mission church is now a roadway and commercial district.
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Miniature model of the 1836 battle scene.
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Part of the original irrigation ditch that supplied water to the Alamo, now populated by at least 20 Koi fish.
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We really were there!
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Nearby is the Menger Hotel where Teddy Roosevelt recruited members for the Rough Riders.
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"You know you are in..."

1/13/2016

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  From time to time, we have written about the uniqueness of the various places we have visited. Today we focus on our current location.

So..."You know you are in Savannah when..."

1- a stroll around the city takes you through square after square (all 22 of them).

2- you come across a line of future customers coming out of the door, and going down the street, of Leopold's Ice Cream (a Savannah institution for decades).

3- when you get an urge to buy pralines.

4- you hear ships all day long as they traverse the Savannah River (so close, you can almost reach out and touch them).

5- there are people in the squares, and down by the river, making and selling objects out of palm leaf strips.

6- the words "y'all" are used at least once per sentence.

7- when traffic actually stops for folks in the crosswalk.

8- the revolutionary war is memorialized in every square and re-enacted at the history museum.

9- the Civil War is referred to as "the war of northern aggression."

10- there is a free DOT bus and free ferry shuttle, moving people through the historic district.

11- the December temperature had a high of 84 degrees and a low of 69 degrees.

12- one sees live oak trees draped with Spanish Moss, and the leaves never change color.

13- security systems are installed, and iron grills cover the windows and doors, yet stores are unlocked all night long and no one worries about intruders nor thieves.

14- the Savannah College of Arts and Design (SCAD) seems to own every other building.

15- tipping for services is appreciated but never expected.

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Salt Water Taffy

1/11/2016

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Most of us have tasted salt water taffy, and...we dare say, have liked it. Since Joseph Fralinger first created this sweet convection in the 1880's, while living in Atlantic City, N.J., it has grown in popularity throughout the United States. Somehow, Savannah developed a particular fondness for this sugary delight, as evidenced by the, at least, half-dozen candy stores within three blocks of our apartment, which focus on the manufacture of salt water taffy. Being the true adventurers that we claim to be, we visited each and everyone of them to sample their particular examples of this sweet treat. From our experience, immediately eating the finished product, rather than after weeks of it sitting on a shelf, was much better, as the taffy was softer and more gooey. The flavors popped in your mouth.

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The process starts with ten pounds of taffy that had been stored in a bucket.
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Then it is flattened out and any extra flavoring (such as the coconut pictured here) is added.
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Since a lot of taffy appear to be be dual colored, a second taffy layer (here the lighter colored taffy) is added.
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The next step is to form it into a giant roll.
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The whole batch is placed on the mechanical roller which thins out the roll.
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As it gets thinner, the roll is stretched.
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When it reaches the desired thickness (approximately the circumference of a silver dollar) it is the fed into a machine that cuts the taffy into the proper length and automatically wraps them. The original ten pounds of taffy makes approximately 800 individual pieces.
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A Walk Through Savannah

1/3/2016

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  In the short time already spent in Savannah, we've come across many beautiful, and sometimes "different" sights. From great southern architecture, to historic cemeteries, and ...well, rather unusual objects. Indulge us, if you will, as we present the fantastic to ...the "fanciful(?)".

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Savannah City Hall's golden dome reminded us of the Massachusetts State House in Boston.
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Southern architecture amazed us with its grandeur.
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The Owens Thomas House is another of those wonderful old mansions that tickled our imagination about what life in 1800's was like.
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The Colonial Park Cemetery was the city's burial ground between 1750 and 1853.
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William Scarbrough, buried here in the Colonial Park cemetery, was the founder of the first transatlantic steamship.
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There is even a grave memorializing the days when honor had to served by dueling.
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Several of the old mansions have been transformed into Inns.
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Of course fiction also has made inroads into Savannah's culture. Laurie's restaurant (originally known as Debi's) is where Forrest Gump's Jenny supposedly worked during the film.
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Several companies offer ghost tours of the city (apparently Savannah is quite haunted). It looks like riding "shortgun" has some serious consequences.
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Some of the police stations got into the history act by displaying this 1953 police cruiser...
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...as well as this county cruiser.
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This memorial to all those men and women who built and sailed ships out of Savannah was donated by the Propeller Club.
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The Savannah river is a very active sea lane for both cargo ships and private vessels (like the 143 foot Thalia out of the Cayman Islands on the left of this picture).
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This intricate miniature recreation of the Battle of Savannah was found in the History Museum.
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The Bird Girl statue was created in 1936 by Sylvia Shaw Judson as a garden ornament for a Massachusetts family.
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Artisans of all kinds (like this "Wire Man") practice their skills throughout the city.
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We found this "Will Smith" look alike (sort of), named Isaiah, in the Savannah Candy Kitchen.
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History Museum of Savannah

1/1/2016

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  Every place we have visited has had some sort of history museum. Given that we love history, finding that the Savannah History Museum is only a couple of blocks from our apartment was a surprise bonus. Housed in the 1850's Central of Georgia Railroad Terminal Shed, the museum opened in 1990 as an extension of the 1984 Great Savannah Exposition. From Forrest Gump's park bench to the Battle of Savannah re-enactment, this is one of the highlights of our stay here.

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This mural of the Great Savannah Exposition is in the welcoming lobby.
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Entryway for the museum proper.
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Being in the Central of Georgia Railroad Terminal Shed, the museum has to have an old steam locomotive.
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During the founding years of Savannah, the pelt industry was an important economic factor.
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The Forrest Gump park bench was specifically made for the film and located in Chippawa Square. Once the film was done, the bench was moved to the museum.
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Recreation of an 1800's dentist office.
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This 1901 "Victoria" carriage once belonged to General William Washington Gordon II, son of the founder of the Central of Georgia railroad.
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This 1902 Crestmobile was bought in August of 1902 by Dr. H.A. Jones.
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In preparation for the Battle of Savannah presentation, the two re-enactment historians provided us with a lot of background information.
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The Battle of Savannah Memorial Park is located next to the museum. This plaque sets the tone for the topography. This battle was the second bloodiest one of the American Revolution, with 224 killed and 600 wounded.
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Musket demonstration as it must have happened during the battle.
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    Carl and Lorraine  Aveni are two retirees planning on traveling through Europe for at least one year.

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