Just prior to the start of the twentieth century, industrialist Euseli Guell purchased some land on Carmel Hill outside of Barcelona, with the intent of developing a private residential village for the wealthy within a natural park. Guell commissioned his friend Antoni Gaudi to design this "village" along the lines of the Temple of Appollo at Delphi and the English Garden City movement. The idea was to create 60 triangular lots for luxury homes in an effort to exploit the fresh air and the view. Unfortunately, because of poor transportation issues to the area, the concept was a bust. Only two houses were built; one that Gaudi himself lived in for twenty years, and the other one, called the Porter's Lodge, was to receive guests to the estate. While the natural park is free, the area that was to be the "village" is not. Entrance is on a timed basis, so it is conceivable that you could easily wait a couple of hours after buying your ticket before gaining entrance. The architecture here is typical Gaudi; i.e. lots of multi-colored glazed tile pieces (taken from demolition projects) and lots of undulating lines. Because this is an unfinished project, there is not a lot to see. But, what is here, is gorgeous! The first house built in Park Guell was the one in which Gaudi himself lived for twenty years. Designed to receive guests to the "village", the Porter's Lodge was the only other house built. Part of Gaudi's design for this project included intricate pathways and columned areas (which also served to collect rain water and send it to an underground cistern). The design and workmanship is astounding! The centerpiece to Park Guell is this beautiful raised area that covered to cistern... The 86 columns on this platform created an area for shop venders to sell their products to the wealthy families that would have lived here. In typical Gaudi fashion, this salamander half-way up the staircase to the platform is decorated with multi-colored glazed tiles. Notice that Gaudi never seemed to build anything with straight lines. The top patio portion of the platform provided an wonderful overview of part of the park and into Barcelona proper. It also served as a catch basin for rainwater and funnels it down into the cistern below ground. Various festivals and dance performances are often held on this patio area. Everything about Park Guell was amazing. We can only imagine what it might have looked like if 60 luxury homes were built here.
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One of our more interesting experiences was a 30 mile side trip west of Barcelona to Montserrat. This 4055 foot tall mountain is part of the Catalan pre-coastal range and is noted for being host to the Benedictine abbey "Santa Maria de Montserrat." Approximately 700 feet above the monastery are a series of abandoned caves believed to have been inhabited by reclusive monks (hermits) as far back as the 6th century. There is some indication that Romans may have constructed a temple to Venus on this same mountain as long ago as several years before the birth of Christ. There is even a myth that states Montserrat is the location of the Holy Grail from the Arthurian legend. Our purpose for visiting Montserrat was to see the Benedictine Monastery. Originally built in 1409, this abbey serves as home to the famous "Black Virgin", and one of the oldest boys choir in Europe - the Escolania (they give a short performance every day at 1:00pm). An easy one hour train ride from Barcelona's Plaza Espanya took us to the base of the mountain. That was the easy part (at least for me). We then took a hair-raising cable car ride 3000 feet UP THE MOUNTAIN (where , at times I was convinced that we would bang into the side of the cliffs: we were that close) to the monastery level. Another funicular ride brought us up to the hermitage near the top of the mountain. The views from up here were absolutely fantastic! The weather was ideal! It was a great day visiting this most important religious retreat in Catalunya. Now...do we really have to take the cable car back down off this bloody mountain? The monastery is way up there on the right. Up we go! A view of the Abbey from the end of the overlook. The tracks through the middle of the picture are the rack-railway from the base of the mountain (why didn't we choose that method of going up the mountain?). View of the Abbey from the cable car station. Can you imagine 100,000 people filling this patio area for the dedication of the monastery? The courtyard leading into the basilica. The workmanship on the statuary is fantastic. It must have taken the construction crew forever to get all the material they needed for this project up the mountain. The main aisle towards the high altar. Close-up of the high altar during one of the Escolania's (boys choir) performances.The horse shoe shaped opening above the altar is where the "Black Virgin" is located. One of the most visited sites on the mountain is this room above the altar with the "Black Virgin." Many of the folks we saw said a short prayer in front of the statue and then touched the orb for good luck. Looking towards the back of the basilica from the gallery above the high altar. High above the Abbey are the hermits' caves dating back to the sixth century, at least. While the caves have been abandoned for quite some time, evidence of previous habitation can still be seen. The trail winds around the top of the mountain. Just below the caves is this little chapel dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. We felt that we were on top of the world...but I wondered why they didn't provide us with oxygen masks. Go figure. The views from up here were spectacular! Time to head back down. Oh my! No matter whether you were going up or down, the views were great! ( If I only could have kept my eyes open, I probably would have enjoyed them more).
Architect Antoni Gaudi's works can be found all over Barcelona. His last civil design, and some would say his most famous piece, is La Pedrera (The Quarry)...also known as Casa Mila. Built between 1906 and 1912, it created quite a stir because of its curvy facade. The Mila family commissioned Gaudi to design this immense structure, with the idea that they would reside on the fourth floor, and rent out all of the rest of the building. The square footage of the Mila apartment is more than double that of a typical American home. It is huge! After having been exposed to Gaudi's designs in other areas of Barcelona, it is easy to recognize this building as being designed by him; the undulating lines of the facade, the Catalan symbolisms in the motifs, and the very typical Gaudi Chimney vents. One tip to be aware of, the ticket office for a tour of this building is around the corner and not in the front entrance as in most of the other attractions. Plan on allocating at least 1.5 to 2 hours to see everything. You will not regret it. Gaudi's very distinctive design style is evident in one of his most famous works, La Pedrera ( "The Quarry"), or more formally known as Casa Mila. The Quarry nickname came about because all the stonework used in this construction came from the family's quarry The central staircase takes you up to the fourth floor Mila apartment. Scale model of the building. Even the hallway has curves in it. (We loved the rug here). While the dining room is not large compared to others we have seen, this is certainly elegant. The open floor plan between the living and dining rooms does give the impression of spaciousness. I thought the butterfly look of the headboard in this bedroom was unique. Even this child's room is bigger than many master bedrooms. Having built a doll house for our daughter that was almost as large as this one, I can appreciate the work that went into it. The bathroom was also designed on a large scale. The maid's quarters were not quite so spacious. Rank certainly does have its privileges. We found it interesting to see the service areas open to the public, which we did not see in the other homes we visited. Preparing food on this stove for the Mila family must have been interesting ... ...another portion of the kitchen, this just next to the stove area in the previous picture... ...and this is where the servants ate. The attic area, with its 270 catenary brick arches, once served as a laundry for the building. Gaudi was noted for his unique chimney vent designs. You can clearly see the undulating lines to the roof in this picture. Gaudi's unconventional approach to his chimney vents led some to speculate that they inspired the look of the Star Wars Storm Troopers. You be the judge. In any event, they do make you notice them. The world travelers made it to the roof. Where do we go from here?
Antoni Amatller made his fortune as a chocolatier. In 1898, he commissioned architect Josep Cadafalch ( a contemporary of Gaudi) to refurbish an older (1875) building based on a typical Catalan mansion, with a ridged facade inspired by homes from the Netherlands. This was the first of the refurbished homes in Barcelona that comprised the "Block of Discord", which we had discussed in previous postings. While this building appears to be a single "palazzo" or mansion, it is really a series of apartments over a ground floor chocolate shop. The Amatllers lived on the first floor, above the store. Compared to some of the other homes we've visited, Casa Amattller seems more compact and traditional in its designs. In that regard, I found this home a bit more attractive, while Lorraine was drawn more towards the Gaudi designs. Cadafalch used many of the finest Barcelona craftsmen and artists who were skilled in the modernista movement. What I really liked about visiting this house was that some of the original furnishings are still here and not shipped off to some museum. Added to this were the whimsical knights, dragons, and other characters decorating the facade. I felt as if we were walking into a medieval castle as we climbed the central staircase. In any event, all three houses of the "Block of Discord" were elegant and well worth visiting. Street view of Casa Amatller. The facade sort of looked liked a box of chocolates to us. On the right edge of the photo, you can get a glimpse of Casa Botllo next door (we wrote about that in a previous posting). The castle-like staircase takes visitors up to the Amatller's apartment. On the left, behind the glass doors, is an elevator, which was a novelty at the time of this building. The elegantly carved door on the left is the main entrance into the apartment. Many of the homes we visited seemed to incorporate a courting fireplace in the living room. These were designed with a double seat on one side for the couple and a single seat on the other side for the chaperone. This is an photo of the living room at the time the Amatllers lived here. Notice the other room through the doorway... ...this was a multi-purpose room; music/sitting/game room. Keeping to the castle-like theme in the house is the master bedroom. Theresa's (Antoni Amatller's daughter) bedroom was styled a little bit differently... ...with her own little sitting area. Here is an old photo showing how Theresa decorated her room. Amatller handled some of his chocolate factory work here in his study. In this series of three rooms, Antoni and Theresa displayed some of their many collections. The room to the right, through the doorway, was a billiards room. The one to the left, behind the drapes, was Antoni's photography room (he was an amateur photo enthusiast). After Antoni's death, Theresa opened up the drapes and made the central room larger. The sculpturings around the windows are exquisite! Some of Amatller's chocolates were made and sold in the ground floor shop. This is part of the original kitchen in the store. It is still a functioning chocolate store for the Amatller brand. The original Amatller chocolate is still for sale.... ...along with newer, fancier candies.
We have come to enjoy the architecture of Europe. And there are many splendid examples; e.g. Westminster Abbey in London; The Blue Mosque in Istanbul; the whole walled city of Dubrovnik, Croatia; etc. Barcelona also has many fantastic structures, most of which exemplify Catalunya Modernism. One of the best examples of this type of architecture, at least in our opinion, is La Casa Lleo Morera. Situated a couple of blocks north of La Plaza Catalunya, this house is one of three within a block of each other that make up the "Block of Discord" (because of their break from traditionalism) - as you will see in our postings, we visited all three. Designed by Lluis Montaner, the most famous architect of his time, as a refurbishment of the 1864 Casa Rocomora, it is the only building in the area to have been awarded the "Arts Building Annual Award" by the Barcelona City Council. Montaner also designed the Palace of Catalan Music, about which we posted earlier. The Morera building shouts "Hey, Look at us! We are important and wealthy!" There are a number of innovations in this house that make it stand out: for instance, sliding doors (to separate larger rooms into smaller ones) that disappear into the walls; plaster ceilings decorated to simulate carved wood; and sculptures that carry a story from one area to another. For us, the most impressive area is the dining room with its semi-circular stained glass wall that opens out to the patio garden area. These folks sure knew how to live well. A bit disappointing was that no original furniture was left in the house. There were some old photos of the rooms with furniture in them, but it is just not the same . Street view of La Casa Lleo Morera. One of the innovations for its time, was this elevator in the vestibule. The main reception room was one that could be divided by sliding doors. The Moreras wanted to separate the public areas of the house from the private areas. This corridor leads to the family rooms. Notice the allegorical sculptures over the doorways. These depict a story theme that is carried throughout the house. Our favorite room in the house - the stained glass dining room. Each glass panel depicts a family in nature. Old photo of the dining room as it was furnished by the Moreras. This plaque on the facade of the building signifies that the Barcelona City Council gave the "Arts Building Annual Award" for the best architectural design for 1906. Patio with a Mulberry bush painted on the wall (Morera translates into "Mulberry" from Catalunya). The green building below the Mulberry bush was used as servant quarters.
Located just a few blocks from Plaza Catalunya is one of Antoni Gaudi's masterpieces - La Casa Botllo. Originally built in 1875, the building was bought by textile industrialist, Josep Botllo, around the turn of the century. He commissioned Gaudi to totally refurbish it. Gaudi was given complete freedom in redesigning the structure, and he certainly let loose his creative juices. Around the same time, two other houses just a few doors away, were being refurbished also; one by Josep Cadafalch, a colleague of Gaudi's and one by Luis Domenech i Montaner, a professor of his. Legend has it that the competition to win the award for the best design amongst these three architects was fierce (the professor's design won). La Casa Botllo is amazing! There appears to be no straight lines anywhere on the facade. We learned that Gaudi drew his inspiration for this commission from nature's own designs, as well as from a bit of mythical wimsey - the roof line resembles the spine of a dragon with a chimney resembling St. George's lance as it kills the dragon. This is a very strong legend within Catalonia , as Saint George is Barcelona's patron saint. There is just so much to this building that differs from traditional architecture that it is somewhat difficult to take it all in. Gaudi's designs are unique, and not to everyone's tastes. We certainly have enjoyed each and every one of his buildings that we have encountered. Street view of La Casa Botllo. The central staircase leads from the ground floor lobby up to the living quarters. Gaudi drew much of his design inspirations from nature. Here, in the main reception room, the columns both within the room and outside the windows resemble bones. As a result, the house is known locally as the "House of Bones." Gaudi designed the central shaft to add natural light to the building. This mushroom shaped fireplace was designed so that a courting couple could sit on one side, while the chaperone sat on the opposite side. Much of Gaudi's work involved the use of tiles, and blue seemed to be his favorite color. The tile work covers the whole of the central shaft, with the darker tiles closer to where the sun enters and the lighter one near the bottom to create a brighter atmosphere The loft, or attic area,with its 60 cantenary arches, was used as a laundry room, as well as for storage. Even the garden patio was designed with undulating lines and to maximize sunlight. Part of the roof top was designed to resemble the spine of a dragon from the legend of Saint George... ...and of course, Gaudi's unique designs for chimney vents is legendary.
What a gem of a building this is! Owned by, and home to, the "Orfeo Catala" choral society, it was built in just three years (1905-1908), after a planning stage of only one year ( both of which were stunning accomplishments of their own). This was all achieved using local craftsmen and artists. The concept was to have a building that, by itself, expressed Catalan Nationalist ideas. Our first view of the building nearly took our breath away. The red brick facade covered with sculptures, glazed tiles, and stained glass were just a hint of what we would find inside. The main concert hall, which can hold 2200 spectators, is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful in the world. Because of the extensive use of stained glass windows along the side walls, and a very large inverted glass dome in the ceiling, this hall is the only one in Europe that is totally illuminated by natural light during daytime. Even what is called the choir's rehearsal hall is impressive. It can seat 538 people for smaller performances and has state of the art acoustics and audio-visual technology. All and all, this is a must see venue if you ever get to Barcelona. The red brick facade, with the contrasting white sculptures, and the multi-colored glazed tiled columns creates a stunning picture. The glazed-tiled supporting columns also housed the concert hall ticket windows (which have been moved to a newer part of the building). The central staircase reminded us of those we found in palaces throughout Europe. The combination of glass and iron was utilized extensively throughout the building, even in the railings of the staircase. The most impressive part of the building is the main concert hall. The large stained glass windows on both side walls and the very large inverted dome in the ceiling makes this the only hall in Europe that is totally illuminated by natural light during daytime. The inverted glass domed skylight in the ceiling was designed by Antoni Rigalt and weighs nearly two tons. On the roof of the building is a glass covering over the dome so that rainwater does not get into it. The back walls of the stage have a series of "muses" each playing a different instrument. Another highlight of the building is the glazed-tiled colonnaded balcony. The "Petit Palau", or choir rehearsal room, is also used for smaller performances and can seat up to 538 spectators...
The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia (co-patron Saint of Barcelona) serves as the "seat" for the archbishop of the city. The current cathedral, built in 1298, sits on top of the 4th century Cathedral of the Holy Cross. We have seen some beautiful churches in our travels, and we have to say that this one ranks right up with the best of them. There are private chapels galore lining both sides of the church...and even lining the cloister. One of the unusual highlights is the "Well of Geese", which makes up part of this loggia. Here, 13 geese, representing the age at which Saint Eulalia was martyred, roam in their own little area. While I am not a fan of heights, a trip to the roof to see the impressive gargoyles there, as well as the spectacular view of the city, makes it a worthwhile endeavor. You have to look for the access point (an elavator) though, because it is tucked away next to a small chapel. This building is the centerpiece of the "old city" of Barcelona. As you pass along the outside wall of the Cathedral, you will go under the "Arch of Bisbe" - the entrance point to the Gothic Quarter. As impressive a piece of architecture as this is, don't miss the equally impressive carvings on the underside, especially the skull with a knife through it. Legend has it that if you close your eyes as you pass under the arch and make a wish, when you open them, if the first thing you see is the skull, your wish will be granted. The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia. Looking down the center aisle towards the main altar. A closer view of the main altar... ...with the crypt of Saint Eulalia just below it. This chapel contains the 1407 Crucifiction of Christ over the tomb of Saint Olegarius. Tomb of Saint Raymond of Penafort. We just could not believe the elegant wood carvings of the choir area. The "Well of Geese" area within the cloister.... ...and the rest of the cloister On the roof. Do you see my knees knocking? Around the corner from the main entrance to the Cathedral is the "Arch of Bisbe." This serves as the entrance to the Gothic Quarter. ...And the equally impressive carvings on the underside of the arch. See if you can spot the skull with the life through it.
Antoni Gaudi was a world renowned architect who made a definitive mark on the city of Barcelona. One of his landmark projects was designing the Palau di Guell (Mansion of Guell) for the industrial tycoon, Euseli Guell and his family. Built between 1886 and 1888, this mansion is amazing. Every room (and there were at least 24 by our count) is more beautiful than the previous one. Even the stables, which were built underneath the mansion, were impressive. But, by far, our favorite room was the Grand Hall, with its three floor high ceiling, beautiful wood and iron work, and an impressive chapel area that could be closed off by two massive doors, when the hall was being used for social occasions. On the family apartment level, Gaudi designed hidden windows so that the Guells could see what their guests were wearing before they dressed to join them. As an added bonus, Gaudi designed the ceiling overlooking this social arena with holes, behind which lanterns could be hung during evening events, to give the impression of stars. While I am definitely not a fan of heights, a trip to the roof of Palau di Guell is well worth it. for here, in typical Gaudi fashion, even the chimneys have a flair. We loved this place! Street level view of the Palau di Guell. One of the uniquely Gaudi designs were the two parabolic entrance gates to the home. Guests would arrive in their carriages through these gates, get out and then climb the central staircase to the reception hall. Meanwhile, the horses and carriages would continue down a ramp to the stable area beneath the mansion. This stable area was massive and also beautifully designed. Gaudi apparently felt that the horses also could appreciate fine accommodations. There are rings designed like Bulls... ...as well as dogs, for securing the horses. The central staircase is located between the two parabolic entrance gates. At the top, Gaudi designed a stained glass window to represent the Catalan flag. Throughout the house there are intricate wood and iron ceilings. At the far end of the dinning room are two doors for a butler's pantry and dumb-waiters for sending food from the kitchen. Entrance into the Grand Hall . This is where all the Guell's social events were held... ...and looking up to the ceiling you can see the holes behind which lamps were hung during the evening, to simulate stars. Opposite the staircase in the Grand Hall is where the Guells had their private chapel. That chapel area could be closed off by the huge doors during social events. Above the chapel area is the massive pipe organ... ...which could be played from this console located in a little area next to the chapel.
We continue to have fantastic luck at happening upon the unexpected. While exploring the "old city" portion of Barcelona, we came across a large gathering crowd, wearing three different colored shirts. The shear number of folks , each wearing the same colored shirts, immediately told us that these were teams getting ready to demonstrate "Castell" building (i.e. Human pyramids), which is a unique tradition in this Catalan region of Spain. The first documentation of this activity dates from 1712, but it has shown a resurgence in the last fifty years. Catalans feel this is a way to express their regional culture and identity ; a symbol of what can be achieved if everyone works together.The motto of the Castellers is "strength, balance, courage, and common sense." Over the last five decades, many "Castell" clubs have sprung up, performing on weekends and at festivals. The whole process is complex, from the simple single tier (just 4-5 folks standing on each other's shoulders while on a wide base of around 100 other folks) to the more difficult nine levels of three people on each level...and it is somewhat dangerous. If interested in a more detailed explanation, simply Google "Castells." Look for our videos of this event on Facebook. The Plaza de San Jaime just before the crowds began arriving for the Castell performance. This is the official flag of the Catalan region of Spain. The four red stripes on a golden background is the Coat of Arms for the Crown of Aragon. Luca, a member of the Minyons of Terrassa Castell club, spent time with us explaining the complexities of Castell building. Each team sports a different colored shirt with their own club's patch (here the Minyons of Terrassa club)... ...and this for the Castellers of Barcellona. The black sashes are a very important part of the uniform. Each member wears one, the width of which is determined by which level the participant is performing (e.g. Those on the base have the widest sashes while those on the higher levels have thinner ones). In addition to supporting their backs, the sashes are used for foot and hand holds by those climbing to the upper levels. Therefore, making sure they are wrapped correctly is quite important. The green shirted Castellers of Vilafranca getting ready to complete their Castell. As the pyramid grows, folks on the upper levels are lighter in weight so as to help the stability of the Castell. Finally, the top level is manned by young (usually around six years of age), agile, girls. Here, the Castellers of Barcelona are forming their pyramid. It was not uncommon to see members of other teams come over to form a much wider base for additional stability, as well as to have a bigger safety net for the upper level folks, should the Castell collapse (we saw that happen once during this day). How this double Castell looks from a distance, as it is forming. In recent years, as Catalan nationalism rises, this form of the Catalan flag, called the Estelada, with its five-pointed star has been seen more and more. While considered to be an "illegal" flag, it has been tolerated as freedom of expression.
Our exploration of Barcelona took us to the waterfront, where we found the Royal Shipyard - now a museum. Construction began in 1285 and consisted of fortified walls with four towers (two of which still exist). Plans were always for this structure to be used to build and store galleys for the Aragonese Armada, including all of the rigging and accessories. Thus, it not only served as a shipyard, but also an arsenal. Over the succeeding centuries, the building was enlarged several times. It was even moved inland a few meters due to severe flooding caused by the construction of the city port. Looking at it now, we had a hard time imagining how they got the ships out of the building and down into the water. There had to have been some sort of "canal" leading to the port from the building, but all evidence of that is long gone. The museum is full of all types of ship models, from simple dug-out canoes to modern day container ships. Perhaps the most impressive, is the full-scale replica of the Royal Galley for John of Austria (the original having been built in 1521). We would have loved the opportunity to climb aboard and explore every nook and cranny of that ship. The most unexpected portion of this visit was our chance meeting with Tortell Poltrane from Germany, President of Clowns without Borders. The parallel between his life and Lorraine's was amazing. Both were professional clowns for years (Tortell's in a circus and Lorraine's as a private entertainer). Both had three children, all of whom also worked as professional clowns. And each taught others the art of clowning. It was wonderful watching the two of them swapping stories about their careers and being amazed at how similar their lives had been. Partners with Tortell this day was Joan Sallas, a genius at paper folding. In the space of a few short moments, Joan had created two distinct paper hats for both Tortell and Lorraine. This was an absolutely wonderful day. The Barcelona Royal Shipyard main entrance. Model of an eighty-gun warship. The full-scale replica of the Royal Galley, originally built in 1521 for John of Austria. Looking at the Royal Galley from the back. In its heyday, those staterooms must have been really something to see. Up close, the artistry and the workmanship is absolutely stunning. Fairly recent excavations revealed that the shipyard had been built on top of an old Roman graveyard. Even the side aisles were immense in their construction, to allow for the storage of the galleys after they were built. The earliest, and simplist in design, were the dug-out canoes, made from a single tree. Just outside the Royal Shipyard, and facing the waterfront, is this monument to Christopher Coulumbus. It was thought that he was pointing west towards the "New World" which he sought to find. However, he is actually pointing south-southwest towards the open ocean, apparently symbolizing his desire to explore the sea. Two kindred spirits "clowning it up".
La Sagrada Familia (the Sacred Family basilica) is Antoni Gaudi's most famous work -partly because it is unfinished - and is Barcelona's number one tourist attraction. This 18 spire (representing the twelve Apostles, the four Evangelists, the Virgin Mary, and Jesus Christ) church was the inspiration of Josep Maria Bocabella, founder of the Spiritual Association of Devotees of Saint Joseph, but was designed by the world famous Spanish architect, Gaudi. Construction began in 1882, though it was interrupted by the Spanish Civil War. When Gaudi died in 1926, the structure was less than 1/4 completed. In 1882, the basilica was surrounded by open fields. Today, with the expansion of Barcelona coming up to the perimeter of the church, it is surrounded by buildings. Since we love to walk, the 45 minute journey didn't bother us. The Metro is an alternative method of commuting to this site. Entrances are on a timed basis, so it isn't unusual to wait 2-3 hours between buying your tickets and finally gaining access. We suggest going early to get them (or buy online) and then explore the neighborhood, and/or have some lunch, before going in. Also, be aware , if during your tour, you come to the main Gift Shop, DO NOT ENTER. This is considered leaving the basilica and you will not be let back in. In addition to the Basillica itself (including the bell towers), the complex includes the crypt ( in which there are only two burials - that of Josep Maria Bocabella and that of Antoni Gaudi), a museum, and a school that Gaudi designed for the children of the workers. Construction is expected to be completed in 2026 ( the centennial of Gaudi's death), at which time La Sagrada Familia will be the tallest church building in the world. This visit was well worth the trip, especially seeing the stunning stained glass windows that cover the walls. For further information, go to www.sagradafamilia.org Street view of La Sacrada Familia Basilica - and construction cranes. When completed in 2026, it will have taken 144 years from start to finish. The huge stained glass windows are absolutely stunning. The pictures don't really capture the beauty and the immensity of the windows. Gaudi created a unique design for the interior columns, for example, starting with a square base, then transitioning into an octagon, then to a sixteen-sided form, before finally ending as a circle. Another distinctive highlight are the spiral staircases leading to the upper levels of the church's interior. On the edge of the Basilica's property is the school that Gaudi designed for the children of the construction crew. The classroom as it looks today... ...and how it looked when it was first put to use.
Yet another Barcelona gem is located just a few blocks from our apartment. Poble Espanyol (literally meaning "Spanish Town") was created for the 1929 Barcelona International Exposition. It recreates an Iberian village with 117 buildings representing 15 regions of Spain. Original plans called for this "town" to be demolished after the Exposition, but because it had become so popular, the city council decided to keep it. What a great decision that was! All throughout the year, festivals and special events are held in the main square, filling it with thousands of spectators. We spent a full day exploring this whole town with its many studios and workshops. There are over thirty artisans (e.g. Glass blowers, ceramics, leatherwork, etc.) exhibiting their talents. We truly felt like we were walking through a medieval Spanish town. All that was needed was folks in period dress, and donkey carts to complete the atmosphere. It was an amazing adventure. If you would like further information on this gem, please visit www.poble-espanyol.com Entering Poble Espanyol through this main gate, takes you back to the middle-ages. The main square is a reproduction of the Castellana di Riaza Square in Segovia. Wells were an important part of medieval Spanish life. Not only did they provide water to its citizens, but legends stated that they were often inhabited by gods who could grant wishes if a coin was tossed in. If the coin landed heads up, the wish would be granted. If it landed tails up...well too bad! Try again another time. One of the many streets leading off of the main square. The Utebe tower represents the strong Muslim (Moors) influence on Spain during their presence here. The chains hanging from the side of this church were thought to represent the liberation of Christian prisoners following the reconquest of Spain from the Moors. This, we felt, was one of the more spectacular views traveling through town. Monasteries were prevalent throughout Spain, especially in hill towns. This recreates what the main chapel of the monastery would look like. Every monastery had a cloister for quiet contemplation. The warm climate in many parts of Spain dictated a popular architecture of narrow streets and whitewashed buildings to protect from the sun. In the IX century, following the discovery of the remains of the Apostle Santiago (James) in the town of Compostela, King Alfonso II the Chaste, ordered a small church to be built near the site. Ever since, pilgrims have been traveling the "Camino" routes (as seen on the map in the background) to the town.
Originally settled by Iberian Celts thousands of years ago, Montjuic (the name believed to have derived from Latin meaning "hill of Jove" - god of the sky and thunder) has housed a lghthouse/watchtower for centuries. This was designed to signal the city of arriving sailing ships, with flags during the day and fire at night.The first fort was built around the watchtower in 1640, during the Catalan Revolt against Spanish authority. In 1751, the Bourbon monarchs demolished the original fort and had the current one constructed on the remains.. After having made our own trek up the hill (by foot and then by cable car), we could only guess at the problems encountered by the builders bringing up construction materials and canons centuries ago. The fortress has seen a lot of service in several battles ( between the Catalans and Spain, as well as between Spain and France), and also as a prison. We have said many times that we love history. Visiting this centuries old fortification was a huge plus for us! Not to mention the spectacular views of Barcelona from the top! The drawbridge entrance to the fortress. The flower gardens below the bridge were once a moat. These beautifully designed gardens certainly add a lot of splendor to the Castle. While the canons were designed to defend the city, on various occasions (e.g. When the French seized the fort) they were used to bombard Barcelona. The well drew water from a cistern that had collected rainwater from the sloping roof of the fortress. Two intrepid warriors ready to defend the castle from all enemies. When Montjuic Castle served as a prison, executions took place on this section of the Santa Eulalia moat. The most notable, was the execution by firing squad of Lluis Companys, President of the Catalan Government, following the Spanish Civil War. View of the commercial harbor of Barcelona. When we first arrived, little did we realize how close to the water our apartment was. Access to the Castle on the top of Montjuic is easily gained by funicular. That is just a portion of Barcelona in the background. It is hard to believe that, at one time, this was just open fields.
Our Barcelona apartment sits at the base of Montjuic, a 700 foot tall hill overlooking the city. Obviously, this required some exploration. Not only are the "Magic Fountain" and the National Museum of Art Catalunya (both of which were mentioned in a previous posting) located on this hill, but there are also the Olympic Park, Botanical Gardens, and the Castle Montjuric. While getting to the Olympic Park level only required us to negotiate a couple of hundred stairs, getting to the Castle necessitated a "death defying" cable car ride. I suppose we could have opted to walk safely up the motor vehicle access road, without having to take our lives in our hands on the funicular, but then, that would not have been as interesting to write about. The views of Barcelona and its harbor from the top were spectacular. Despite feeling that my will needed updating on the trip upwards, this was a fun experience. The National Museum of Art Catalunya sits at the halfway mark up Montjuic hill. Greeting us at the Olympic Park level is this Torch bearer statue. The Barcelona Olympic stadium was originally built in 1929 and was intended to hold anti-fascist alternative Olympics to the upcoming games scheduled for Berlin. However, these plans were scraped because of the Spanish Civil War. Barcelona finally secured the Olympic Games in 1992. The "space needle" structure in the foreground is actually a telecommunications tower and its design was considered unique for its time. The dome shaped building on the right was used for indoor events such as gymnastics. The 65,000 seat stadium is still in use. The day before our visit, a Monster Jam concert was held here. Next to the stadium is a museum dedicated to the history and evolution of the Olympics, as well as to all the sports ever competed during the games. A very important part of every Olympics is the Oath taken by participants and officials to insure fairness. The "infamous " cable car ride with Barcelona in the background. In fairness, this was not all that bad...once I started breathing again. The drawbridge entrance to Castle Montjuic. The current fort configuration was begun in 1751.
The number two tourist attraction in Barcelona, the Font Magica ("Magic Fountain") is only two blocks from our apartment. Built for the 1929 Barcelona International Exposition, it took three thousand workers one year to complete. Four nights per week (Thursday through Sunday), from February through New Year's, a 90 minute display of water, light, color, music and motion, entertains thousands of onlookers...and it is free! The fountain sits in front of four ionic columns that represent the four stripes of the Catalan flag. These columns were demolished in 1928 during Rivera's dictatorship, in order to avoid having any Catalunya symbols being seen during the Exposition. Further up the Montjuic hill, behind the columns, is a palace-looking Italian style building housing the National Museum of Catalunya Art. Having all three attractions so close to our apartment was a real treat for us. It made for a beautiful day of exploring. Warming up the fountain for the night's entertainment. Looking through the fountain to the four columns and up the hill to the National Museum of Catalunya Art. A view looking down the Montjuic hill towards La Plaza Espanya. The National Museum of Catalunya Art with its own cascading water display. Early evening start of the Magic Fountain show. Even the white lights against the darkening mountains in the distance were impressive. As darkness descends, and the music builds, the colors get more vibrant. Each combination of music, water, and color is as wonderful as the previous one. ...and while these pictures are nice, they really do not do justice to the actual event. I love this picture of the four columns through the fountain display. What was truly entertaining was the mix of music added to the show; classical, popular, and even the theme from Star Wars. We loved it!
Food is food! Well...sort of! During our travels, national cultural influences often provide unique dishes to sample. Some are spicy - others are not. In Spain, "uniquely" Spanish cuisine is different from the other national foods served throughout the rest of Europe. The history of invasions in the various regions affected the different cooking methods and ingredients available. In that regard, "Spanish" cuisine is more regionalized than in other parts of Europe. Sure, beef steak is beef steak wherever you go. But, how it is prepared, what spices are used, and what garnishes with which it is served, can make a world of difference in how it tastes. We sampled a number of different styles of food during our stay in Madrid; from the amazingly sweet churros dipped in chocolate, to roasted lamb slow-cooked in an ancient wood burning oven, to snacking on "tapas" ( Spanish appetizers which can be served either hot or cold) over drinks during a Flamenco performance. What a delight! There are a number of large "mercados" (markets) around Madrid. This is the Mercado de San Miguel next to Plaza Mayor. How about a 1/4 of a cow for supper tonight? Some of the fish looked like they could eat us. Pastry shops were almost on every corner. ...so is pasta. Churros dipped in chocolate are decadent! They come in different shapes and sizes. And the chocolate was so good! There is an unending supply of wine. How many olives can you count? Meats are plentiful. Tapas (Spanish appetizers) can be served hot or cold Somewhere amongst all those mushrooms is a steak. The slow-roasted lamb was delicious. Menu cover from the Botin Reaturant - oldest restaurant in the world according to the Guinness Book of Records. Fried calamari, whether served in sandwiches or in snack cups like these, is quite popular
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Carl and Lorraine Aveni are two retirees planning on traveling through Europe for at least one year.
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