Auckland’s Sky Tower, a 1076 foot tall observation and telecommunications building, is the tallest free-standing structure in the Southern Hemisphere. Built between 1994 and 1997, as part of the Skycity Auckland casino complex for Harrah’s Entertainment, it receives approximately 415,000 visitors per year, and is one of the most noticed buildings in Auckland’s skyline. Sitting at the very top of the Tower is an antenna that is considered to be the largest FM Combiner (a device used to control signals of several different transmitters) in the world. These include television, wireless internet, and weather measurement services. Level number 53 (at 630 feet) is the exciting “Skywalk” experience, where visitors can explore 360 degrees of the outside edge of the Tower while tethered to a safety harness track system. These adventurers feel like they are standing on the edge of the world. If feeling truely courageous, you can jump from the observation deck on a guide-cable controlled system, 630 feet to the ground, reaching speeds of 53 miles per hour. In addition to the main Observation deck (there are three at different heights), the upper levels contain a cafe and two restaurants (including New Zealand’s only revolving restaurant). At various times throughout the year, the Tower is illuminated with colored lights to show support for a range of charities and organizations, as well as for the holidays.

Auckland’s Sky Tower is noticeable from pretty much
​all over the city...

...including from Mount Eden...

...and from the War Memorial Museum at Domain Park.

The views of Auckland from the observation deck of the Tower are also impressive.

If you are a hearty soul(which I am not), one can take the heart pounding edge walk around the outside of the building. Since Lori had already taken a similar (but much higher) excursion on Toronto’s CN Tower, she decided not to do this one.

If feeling even more adventurous, visitors can jump off the building (tethered to a guide-cable controlled system of course). Why would anyone jump off of a perfectly good, solid building to see death racing up towards them from the ground?

Jumpers reach speeds of 53 miles per hour...

...before being automatically slowed to a near stop just before reaching the ground.

At night, the Tower is illuminated in various colors to show support for various charities...

...and holidays ( such as Valentine’s Day).

Two hours south of Auckland are the world renown Waitomo (from the Maori meaning “water hole” or “shaft”) Glowworm caves. The bioluminescent Glowworms ( which are really insects , about the size of mosquitos, and not worms) are a species unique to New Zealand; known as arachnocampa luminosa. The caves’ limestone formations were created over thirty million years ago. By the time English explorers Laurence Cussen and Fred Mace were shown the caves by Maori Chief Tane Tinorau, they had been known by the local tribe for about a century. The two Englishmen did extensive explorations of the caves between 1887 and 1888, during which they discovered the amazing Glowworm Grotto. Chief Tinorau opened the caves to visitors in 1889. By 1906, administration of the caves had been taken over by the New Zealand Government. Chief Tinorau’s descendants regained administrative control over the caves in 1989. Tours of the caves today encompass three levels; (1) the top level, known as the catacombs; (2) the “Banquet Chamber” where early visitors stopped to eat (as evidenced by smoke residue on the chamber’s ceiling); (3) the Cathedral, which is noted for its acoustics (several professional singers have recorded albums here). The tours end with a boat ride through the Glowworm Grotto. While admission to the caves is a bit pricey, it is worth the visit. It should be noted that the local Maori consider the caves as a sacred place, so photographs by visitors are not allowed. What are presented below are photos taken by professional photographer Shaun Jeffers, who, at the request of the Maori, spent a year chronicling the wonders within.

Visitors to the Waitimo Glowworm Caves enter through this upper level building.

Once inside, the amazing limestone formations, formed nearly thirty million years ago, are stunning.

Known as “The Cathedral”, this chamber’s excellent acoustics have seen a number of musical recordings created here.

All of this was created over centuries by the flow of water through the limestone.

Nature’s incredible creations never cease to amaze us.

It is easy to see why the Maori consider this a sacred place.

Imagine. These are simple bioluminescent insects!

Even as we were starting to exit the Glowworm Grotto, the illuminations remained spectacular.

Outside the caves, we felt we were in a primeval forest, expecting dinosaurs to appear around the next bend. What a fantastic place!

Approximately 140 miles southeast of Auckland is the town of Rotarua, which is known for its geothermal activities. During the early 14th century, the Maori explorer/chief, Ihenga, discovered the lake which bears the same name as the town. Since this was the second lake that the chief had discovered, he gave it the name “Rotarua” (which means “second lake”). Ihenga’s tribe found the area pleasant and settled here. In 1828, Philip Topsell, the first European to explore the area, married into this tribe. Three years later, missionaries began visiting the area , eventually establishing a mission in 1835. During the 1860’s, the “New Zealand Wars” broke out between the New Zealand government and local tribes because of escalating tensions over disputed land purchases. In the end, following out-of-court settlements, the British Crown made formal apologies to the tribes, returning most of the land confiscated during the wars or making restitution’s. In 1894, with the establishment of the Rotarua Branch railway, connecting the district to Auckland, the town grew rapidly. Its geothermal activities (geysers, mud pools, and hot thermal springs) became the heart of the district’s tourism trade. To many, the top attraction is the thirty foot tall Pohutu geyser that spouts several times daily.

The town of Rotarua shares the same name as the lake that is next to it. Meaning “Second Lake”, Rotarua was discovered by a Maori Chief in the 14th century.

While it still maintains much of its Maori history and culture...

...it also has a small European Town feel to it.

However, the main reason we came here, and why most visitors do the same, is to see the bubbling mud flats and sprouting geysers in this geothermal valley.

Right from the start, we were struck with three realities; (1) there was a lot of heat being generated here; (2) the bubbling up effects were quite active; (3) the smell of hydrogen sulfide (i.e. “rotten eggs” smell) is strong.

It was fascinating (almost hypnotizing) to watch the mud flats perculating and to realize that we were standing on top of what could only be described as an active volcanic system...

...but the main attractions were the geysers...

... and they certainly didn’t disappoint.

We were able to get fairly close to them, as they were spouting off everywhere.

Of course, there is always a “star of the show”. In this case it was Pohutu (meaning “big splash”)...

Erupting around twenty times per day, Pohutu’s geyser reaches up to 90 feet in the air.

To be so close to something so spectacular was a thrill.

Peter Jackson’s “The Lord of the Rings” and “The Hobbit” were filmed on a 14 acre plot of land that was part of the 1200 acre Alexander livestock farm. Located just 6.2 miles southwest of the town of Matamata, this area originally was marshland. By the 19th century, it had been drained and transformed into fertile agricultural land. The Alexander family purchased their property in 1978, turning it into a ranch for 13,000 sheep and three hundred cattle. Twenty years later, while scouting possible locations for his upcoming films, Peter Jackson fell in love with what he saw; feeling that it was the perfect spot for Hobbiton (home for the Shire’s Hobbits). After negotiating with the family for use of some of their land, Jackson arranged for the New Zealand army to create a one mile road into the site from the nearest highway. For “The Lord of the Rings” trilogy, 37 Hobbit hole facades and a 29 ton oak (to be placed above Bilbo Baggin’s home, Bag End) were built. This first set was never meant to last, because it was mostly made from polystyrene. But when it’s popularity began to grow with visitors who wanted to see the set, a more permanent Hobbiton was created in 2010. Today, visitors to the movie set really feel that they have been transported to another place and time.

The small town of Matamata certainly has benefited from the films’ popularity. Peter Jackson, a native New Zealander, thanked the town for their hospitality during filming by throwing a huge party for the whole population.

Getting to the movie set was a bit of an adventure itself. From the Visitor Center, you board one of these special buses for the brief ride to Hobbiton.

During the ride you get a small glimpse of what awaits you.

And then...all of a sudden...there it is in front of you. The Shire’s Hobbiton.

All the little details that went into creating this fantasy world were breathtaking.

We were amazed at the creativity that was needed to build this set.

Because most of these were just facades, you could not go in...

...but there were a couple that were open to visitors...

...what we found inside, however, was not what we expected.

The vistas all around us more than made up for what was inside the Hobbit Holes.

One of the highlights was Bilbo Baggins’’Bag End. Even here, the creativity is amazing. The partially open door gives a glimpse of Bilbo’s interior. But this is only about a ten foot facade also, used for exterior shots only. The real interior was filmed on a sound stage.

This tree above Bag End is a 29 ton fake; the only tree on the property that is not real.

As we concluded our time at Hobbiton, we ended up at the Green Dragon Inn...

...where we enjoyed a glass of “Hobbit Ale” ( non-alcoholic).

This place was much bigger than we envisioned...

The Green Dragon’s namesake bid us farewell as we ended our tour of Hobbiton.

Auckland’s War Memorial is one of New Zealand’s most important museums. Its focus is not only on military history, but also the history of New Zealand and its natural wonders. Located on a dormant volcano within Domain Park, its creation dates back to 1852 in a farm worker’s cottage where the University of Auckland is now. In 1869, the museum was transferred to the Auckland Institute’s new building on Princes Street. Soon after its June 1876 official opening, display problems quickly became evident, which necessitated making plans for a newer purpose-built structure. Around this same time, the museum merged with the World War I Memorial. Construction for the current building in Domain Park began in the 1920’s and was completed by the end of the decade. This new structure is considered to be one of the finest Greco-Roman buildings in the Southern Hemisphere. Highlighted amongst its collections are artifacts from the Maori and Pacific Islanders. Today, the museum houses over 1.2 million photographs, 1.5 million exhibits of natural history, along with artifacts pertaining to all wars. Perched atop the volcano’s crater rim, this impressive building has a spectacular view of the surrounding landscape.

Sitting on the crater’s rim of a dormant volcano, Auckland’s War Memorial Museum is known internationally as one of the finest examples of Greco-Roman architecture in the Southern Hemisphere...

...and its surrounding views are wonderful.

Here in the Hall of Flags and Rememberances...

...the museum pays homage to those who have died in the service of New Zealand.

Memorializing War is not the only function of this museum. Among other things, it highlights the contributions of the Maori and Pacific Islanders to the history of New Zealand in such exhibits as this raised storehouse..:

...and this village meeting hall.

Several times per day, local Maori perform ritual “Hakas” (dances) for visitors.

After the show, we got to meet the performers up close and personal.

Inspite of their fierce looking postures, each was quite friendly and personable.

But this is also a natural history museum in which such exhibits as the Kiwi (New Zealand’s National Bird) are displayed...

...as well as this 145 million year old fossilized ammonite found on New Zealand’s North Island.

Major-General Robert Baden-Powell (founder of the Boy Scout movement) commissioned William Seuffert in 1900 to make this desk. It was sold to the museum in 2013 by Baden-Powell descendants.

This is the fossilized tree stump we mentioned in the text of the previous posting that helped to determine the estimated date of the volcanic eruption that created the Domain Park.

One of the oldest volcanos in Auckland, “Pukekawe” (meaning “Hill of bitter memories”) exploded -unknown when exactly but carbon dating of a tree found below the soil surface showed it was at least 50,000 years old - resulting in the creation of Domain Park. Originally, the crater floor became a lava lake, but when the western edge collapsed slightly, it became a fresh water lake. Slowly, over the ensuing years, this lake turned into a swamp and filled with sediment. When the Maori peoples settled the land around 1350, they thought the crater area was one of the best sites for growing “kumara” or sweet potatoes. They also constructed a storage facility here as well as a fortified village, known as a “Pa,” on the crater. In 1843, the Europeans bought the land and set it aside as a park reserve. By the 1860’s the Domain Springs became the main water source for the city of Auckland. During the late Victorian era, a large number of exotic trees from around the world were planted throughout the park. Domain Park was the site for the 1913 Auckland Exhibition (World’s Fair) which financed many improvements to the area. Among the numerous structures constructed for the Exhibition, its arts and crafts styled Tea House was the only one intended to remain after it was over. Today, Domain Park is home to one of Auckland’s main attractions, the War Memorial Museum (which will be discussed in a later posting). This is a great oasis from the stress and hectics of urban life.

Auckland’s Domain Park, the oldest and largest in the city, was originally created following an explosion of the Pukekawe volcano.”

It is simply a beautiful place to walk through.

We’ve never experienced such a wonderful collection of fantastic looking trees before.

While walking through the park, we had the good fortune to meet, and spend some time with, the Guerin family from France (who were exploring the world for a year).

Built for the 1913 World’s Fair in Auckland, the Domain’s Tea House is the Fair’s only structure to remain standing.

Known as the “Winter Gardens,” this barrel-shaped glass house exhibits spectacular rare plants..

...and it is absolutely alive with color.

The exhibits are always changing.

Some of the “locals” have taken up residence in the duck pond.

By all accounts, the number one attraction in Domain Park is the “War Memorial and Museum” building (which will be featured in another posting).

Every city has some sort of a public building ( usually called “Town Hall) that is used for town government and meetings. Auckland’s Town Hall on Queen Street was opened in December of 1911 and its Renaissance Revival architecture was specifically designed to fit its wedge-shaped piece of land that the city acquired back in 1870. Modeled after the Gewandhaus in Leipzig, it was Auckland’s first permanent seat of both administration and entertainment. According to some, it’s Great Hall (with seating for more than 1600) has the best acoustics in the world and is the most elaborate of all the rooms in the building. Volcanic basalt from Melbourne, Australia and Oamaru limestone from New Zealand’s North Island we’re used to construct the exterior of the Town Hall. With a few modifications over the years, the Great Hall’s organ is the largest musical instruement in the country. Featured throughout all the main rooms of the structure, the beautiful stained glass windows are original to the building. Art-Nouveau-styled electric light fittings and wood paneling cover the semi-circular Council Chamber. The vacant former mayoral office suite became home to the Auckland Philharmonic Orchestra’s administrative staff in 2016 and its principal concert venue is the Town Hall. While open for performances, Auckland’s Town Hall is not usually open for tours but rather for city business only. There are a few public areas (such as the main reception area, the central stairway, and the Great Hall, etc.) that are accessible for viewing.

Queen street’s most famous resident, Auckland’s Town Hall (our apartment is off to the left, just behind that tree).

Looking through the main entrance, the central stairway is impressive looking...

...and even more so as you get closer.

Town Hall as it looked in this 1920 archival photo.

Now used for “smaller” meetings and wedding receptions, the original Council Chambers was where much of the city’s business was discussed...

...until the newer semi-circular Council Chamber was built.

The Great Hall is the primary entertainment room of the building and is home to Auckland’s Philharmonic Orchestra. It is said to have the finest acoustics in the world.

Installed in 1911, the Town Hall organ is said to be the largest musical instrument in New Zealand.

Having finished our coverage of Adelaide, Australia, it is now time to turn our attention to our next stop; Auckland, New Zealand.

First settled by the Maori (indigenous peoples from Polynesia)around 1350, Auckland is based around two large harbors on North Island. They called the area “Tamaki,” referring to its fertile land, which they greatly valued.The Maori population peaked at around twenty thousand prior to the arrival of the Europeans. The surrounding hills were covered in rain forests and dotted with dozens of dormant volcanos. Many “Pa” (fortified villages) were created by the Maori on these volcanic peaks When intertribal warfare broke out in 1807, the indigenous population was devastated. Following the arrival of the Europeans, the Treaty of Waitangi was signed, in 1840, with the local tribes and the land on which Auckland was established was given to the new settlers as a sign of good will. The British Governor at the time, William Hobson, chose the area as the capital of the “new country,” naming it after George Eaden, the Earl of Auckland, and Britain’s First Lord of the Admiralty. By 1865, the Capital was moved to Wellington. As new roads were built towards the south, the population began to grow, with (initially) 50% of which were Irish because of cheap passage.

Today, as the only city in the world built on a volcanic basaltic field ( an estimated 50 dormant volcanos), Auckland is also home to the largest Polynesian population in the world. However, many other ethnic groups from all over the world have a presence here, making Auckland the most cosmopolitan city in the country.

Panoramic view of the Auckland skyline taken from atop of nearby Mt. Eden.

An 1859 painting of the Port of Auckland.

Today, the port looks a little different.

The “Old Government House” was the former residence of the Governor of New Zealand ( until the Capital was moved to Wellington). Destroyed by fire in 1848, the original building was replaced by this one in 1856.

By far, the most recognizable feature of the city is the 1076 foot tall “Sky Tower”, the tallest freestanding structure in the Southern Hemisphere.

As with any major city, Auckland has a plethora of churches from various denominations such as this historic Anglican Church, St. Mathew-in-the-City...

...as well as a multitude of beautifully landscaped parks, such as Albert Park just off of the Central Business District.

Of course, there HAS TO BE a performing arts center! Auckland’s Civic Theater is the largest surviving”atmospheric cinema” (i.e. “...where lighting and interior design create the illusion of an open sky...”).