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Mount Royal

8/31/2015

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  One hundred and twenty-five million years ago, magma under the earth's crust became trapped in rocky crevices below the surface. Water seepage into the same crevices created gases that escaped through vents, allowing the magma to cool and harden into rock. Thus, Mount Royal is not an ancient volcano but rather a rocky mound formed underground and eventually exposed by millions of years of erosion. It is part of Quebec's Montergian hills that lay between the Laurentian and Appalachian mountain ranges. Jacques Cartier was the first European to climb to the top of Mount Royal in 1535. Actually, there are three summits on top; reaching to 764, 692, and 659 feet above sea level (we assume that Cartier climbed the tallest of the summits, but do not really know for sure). In the mid-1870's, famed landscape archetect Frederick Law Olmstead (who created New York's Central Park and Boston's Emerald Necklace) designed the park on Mount Royal. It is the largest green space within the city. During the warmer months, an informal free festival is held weekly at the base of the hill. Known as Tam-tams, referring to massive drum circles, these musicians become the focal point of the festival, which also includes teams of medieval costumed individuals "battling" with foam weaponry. Winding roads and pathways throughout the park, eventually lead visitors to the Kondiaronk lookout at the summit with a spectacular view of the city. This lookout was named after the Petun chief who led a major peace effort between the French, the Iroquois, and other First Nations in 1701. A chalet was built on this lookout in 1906 to provide a resting spot for travelers who made it to the summit. We spent a delightful day wandering through the park, until we reached the top and enjoyed an absolutely fabulous view of Montreal.

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The Tam-Tam drum circle festival at the base of Mount Royal.
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Teams of "warriors" battle with medieval-like foam weaponry. While quite enthusiastic and aggressive, they are also very chivalrous. If a blow from an opponent strikes them, they immediately kneel to indicate they are out of commission.
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The woods of the park are spectacular...
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...and quite steep in places.
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Someone was a bit creative while cutting a tree.
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Not sure if this is really allowed, but at least one individual decided to spend some extra time in the park.
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The 256 L'Escarpment steps provide a small shortcut to the summit.
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The Lac-aux-Castors is a perfect spot for a summer afternoon picnic.
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Once at the summit, the Kondiaronk lookout is a great place from which to view the city.
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Montreal is laid out in all its splendor.
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Another view of the city through the trees.
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Built in 1906, the chalet provides a nice respite and a cool place to sit.
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Travelers are treated to a little entertainment once they reach the lookout..
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Nuit Blanche

8/30/2015

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  Once again, our plans to visit a specific destination became side-tracked by an unexpected, and delightful, find. While on our way to Mont Royal, we happened upon a HUGE street festival called "Nuit Blanche" ("White Night") that easily turned a three kilometer stretch of road into a pedestrian mall. The original concept of "Nuit Blanche" was created in 1984 in Nantes, France, by Jean Blaise, founder of the Research Center for Cultural Development. His idea was to create a night-time arts festival that turned the streets into "de facto" art galleries free to all. The concept quickly grew into a carnival type venue that included not only art, but also crafts, food vendors, local shops, games, and activities for kids. "Nuit Blanche" has also spread around the globe to over 120 countries (e.g. Barcelona, Bogata, St. Petersburg, Buenos Aires, Naples, Cairo, Havana; just to name a few). Montreal hosts this festival at least twice per year (mid-winter and late-summer) and has turned it into a three day event each time. We had a great time walking the full length of the venue and seeing all that was happening.

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The streets literally became a canvas for art.
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There were plenty of food vendors selling wares from around the world.
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You could buy clothing...
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...or watches...
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...or get your hair braided.
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There were pet supplies for your dog...
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...or cat.
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Afterwards, you could work off some of those extra calories by spinning...
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...or get a foot massage.
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Kids could ride tea cups...
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...practice their architectural skills...
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...go for a slide...
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...or climb a mountain.
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Of course, there were characters of all kinds present...
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...even zombies got into the act (although We were not entirely sure who, or what, the other character was).
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Chateau Ramezay

8/29/2015

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In 1705, the Governor of Montreal, Claude de Ramezay decided that he needed an elegant house befitting his station in life. He was a bit of an egotist. He built his "chateau", and accompanying 40,000 square feet of gardens, about a quarter mile from Montreal's Notre Dame Cathedral. Seventy years later, when the Americans captured Montreal, they used the building as their Canadian headquarters for the Continental Army. Benjamin Franklin reportedly stayed here when visiting Montreal. Following the British conquest of Canada in 1849, the building became the official residence of the British Governor of Montreal. By 1893, the government in Quebec felt they no longer had use for the Chateau and decided to put it up for auction. The Antiquarian and Numismatic Society saw the historic value of the property and were successful in saving it and turning the property into a museum. We enjoyed the unique opportunity of visiting Chateau Ramezay.

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The Chateau Ramezay.
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Montreal's Coat of Arms. It represents the four major communities that make up the city; the French (Beaver); the British (Rose); the Scots (Thistle); and the Irish (Shamrock).
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The Salles de Nantes formal room for ceremonies. The paneling came from a private mansion in Nantes (thus the name).
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Looking towards the other direction in the Salles de Nantes.
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The Hurons were a major ally at the time of Governor Ramezay. This picture shows the newly electedHuron Chief with his Tribal Council.
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A typical bed chamber from the time period.
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Many of the one story homes of the time had a "Common Room" that served as a bed room, kitchen, family room, and guest room.
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The "Common Room" could also serve as the main dining area. Notice the drum-like mechanism built into the wall. This was used to rotate meat as it cooked slowly over the fire. It was common to put a small dog inside the drum as the driving force for rotating the meat.
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Following the American's capture of Montreal in 1775, the building was used as the headquarters for the Continental Army.
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The gardens were segmented for specific purposes; decorative plants; kitchen foods; orchards; etc.
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Whatever was needed for the running of the household could be grown in the gardens.
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Montreal's Biodome

8/28/2015

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  Situated within Montreal's Olympic Park complex, the Biodome was originally constructed (1973-1976) as a velodrome (track cycling) and judo arena for the 1976 Olympic Games. Renovations began in 1989 to reform the structure into a nature exhibition area, which eventually opened as the Biodome in 1992. Visitors walking through the facility are able to view replicas of the four types of ecosystems found in the Americas: South American rain forests; Laurentian forests (i.e.North American wilderness); St. Lawrence marine ecosystem; and polar areas (divided into the Artic and Antartic). We found our visit to the Biodome to be a delightful and educational experience.

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Entrance to the Biodrome exhibition hall.
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The architecture of the rain forest area made us feel like we were really there.
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It was hard to believe that some of the larger trees were actually made of a cement-like material and not real wood. Touching the "bark" was the only way of telling that it was not real.
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Being this close to an actual beaver dam made us realize how large they really are.
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The sloth habitat off of the main foyer.
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You have to be really patient in order to see the sloth.
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The two Canadian Lynxs in this exhibit were extremely active (and hard to capture both on film), chasing each other around the whole enclosure.
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On the other hand, the caimans were content to just snooze on the sand.
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We would not advise swimming with the piranhas.
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Replica of a St. Lawrence estuary.
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As always, the Penguins looked ready for a formal dinner engagement.
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Montreal's Botanical Gardens

8/27/2015

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  Founded in 1931, at the height of the Great Depression, by horticulturist, Frere Marie-Victorin and Montreal's mayor, Camillien Houde, this 190 acre park was a short 15 minute subway ride from our apartment. It is located across the street from the site of the 1976 Summer Olympic Games in Montreal. Organized to display plants and flowers from around the world, each section is designed around a specific theme (e.g. Annuals, perennials, Alpine, Chinese, Japanese, etc.). The stated goals of the gardens are to educate the public about its collections , as well as to conserve endangered plants. Undoubtably, this was one of the most beautiful and well organized parks we have visited.

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The main entrance to the park leading to the administration building.
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Across the street from the gardens is the 1976 Olympic Stadium complex.
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This 495 foot tall Tower of Montreal (attached to the Olympic Stadium) is the tallest inclined tower in the world. Compared to the 5 degree lean of the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the 45 degree tilt of The Tower of Montreal is unbelievable.
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The vibrant colors of plants throughout the gardens are breathtaking.
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We were truly impressed at the way everything was organized and displayed.
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Everything seemed to be in bloom.
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The Alpine section is devoted to high altitude landscapes.
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The designers of the gardens did a wonderful job laying this all out.
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Creating an alpine "mountain" as a backdrop to the display of high altitude plants was no mean feat.
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Even the "simple" water ponds were impressive.
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The Chinese Gardens were one of the highlights of this visit.
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When time came to design the Chinese Gardens, horticultural architects were brought in from China to help.
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As part of the Botanical Gardens, the Insectarium provides a glimpse into the world of insects around us. One of their programs is the study of butterfly habits by tagging them and following their flight paths.
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One in every four living things on earth are beetles.
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A large collection of stick insects is on display in the Insectarium.
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A winged doorway leads into the Chinese Gardens.
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Ponds, bridges, and pagodas are everywhere.
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Throughout this part of the gardens are these fabric covered sculptures.
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Even the rocks seem to make an impressive display...
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...as are the cascading waters.
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Russian sage in full bloom.
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These Rosemallow flowers were huge! (Easily a foot across).
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One of the most spectacular sections of the Gardens.
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Jean-Talon Market

8/25/2015

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  Just a scant five minute walk from our apartment, in the heart of Montreal's Little Italy, is one of the largest open-air markets in North America: the Jean-Talon Market. Originally opened in 1933 on a former lacrosse field, over 300 vendors (mostly farmers from the Montreal countryside) offer a variety of fruits, vegetables, flowers, and baked goods. The market's single building - the "chalet" - was a bus terminal until 1961, when it became a municipal library. Since 1970, the "chalet" serves as administrative offices for the market. An estimated 2.5 million visitors frequent the market, including local chefs seeking bulk produce for their restaurants. We used to visit the Haymarket Square market in Boston, and loved it. The Jean-Talon market makes Haymarket Square look like a corner grocery store. This place is huge!!! Obviously, this is where we get our fruits, vegetables and baked goods while in Montreal.

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One of the entrances to the many aisles of vendors.
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This long view of the market gives just a taste of how big Jean-Talon Market is.
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Another long view from a different aisle.
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Fruits....
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...vegetables...
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...fresh fish...
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...flowers...
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...maple syrup and baked goods can be found throughout the market.
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Occasional pride in local hockey shows up from time-to-time.
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Even farm-fresh animals can be found here.
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It was amazing to see all of these peppers and garlic displayed in such an artistic fashion.
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St. Anne de Beaupre Shrine

8/24/2015

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For as long as I have known Lorraine, I have heard the story of how her father was a victim in a horrible train accident while living in Prince Edward Island, Canada and was crippled for four years. During recovery, his family took him to the St. Anne de Beaupre Shrine in the hope that his healing process would be enhanced by St. Anne's intercession. Lorraine's father did recover, whether or not because of St. Anne's help (we leave that up to your own beliefs). In any event, Lorraine's family was devoted to St. Anne de Beaupre ever since. Therefore, being so close to this shrine, we just had to make a visit.

Located just 22 miles northeast of the heart of Quebec City, the shrine is near the foothills of the Laurentian mountains. The first church was built here by shipwrecked sailors who dedicated it to their patron saint, Anne, mother of Mary and grandmother of Jesus. While not a whole lot is known about St. Anne, many believed that miracles could be obtained by praying to her. The first recorded miracle attributed to her occurred during the construction of the first chapel in 1658. Louis Guimont, a construction worker who suffered from scoliosis, reportedly was cured while working on the chapel. Since then, millions of pilgrims have come here seeking St. Anne's help for more than 350 years. Pillars just inside the main entrance are covered by crutches from people who claimed that St. Anne cured them.

By 1661, the simple first chapel was replaced by a larger wood and stone church. Fifteen years later, this was replaced by an even larger all stone edifice. In 1876, the first Basilica dedicated to St. Anne was erected on this site. Destroyed by fire in 1922, this was quickly replaced by the current structure. Nearly a million visitors a year now come by car, train, or bus.

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Front entrance to the Basilica St. Anne de Beaupre.
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This side view gives an idea of just how large the Basilica is.
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The central aisle leading to the high altar.
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The sculptured pillars and the ceiling fresco are exquisite.
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The pillar of St. Anne in the side aisle next to the high altar is where many pilgrims pray for intercession.
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Chapel of the Immaculate Conception.
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One of the highlights to be visited is this exact replica of Michaelangelo's Pieta.
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Some of the crutches left behind by folks who say they were cured by St. Anne's help.
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Montreal's Notre Dame Cathedral

8/23/2015

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Although the area was originally explored by Jacques Cartier in 1535, it was not until 1611 that a fur trading post was established here by Champlain. The actual City of Montreal, originally called "Ville Marie" ("City of Mary"), was not founded until 1642. Fifteen years later, the Roman Catholic Sulpician Order established a small parish here dedicated to the "Holy Name of Mary". The Order built its first church down by the old port in 1672. By 1824, the congregation had outgrown this small church, so the Sulpicians hired an Irish Protestant Architect, James O'Donnell to build a much larger church, on its present-day site. The first tower, nicknamed "Perseverance", was built in 1841 on the western side of the church and housed the 11 ton bell named "Jean-Baptiste". This bell was so heavy that when it was rung the traditional way (i.e. 11 men pulling on alternating ropes), the whole tower shook and soon developed cracks. The bell is only rung now on special occasions by means of a striking hammer. The Eastern tower, nicknamed "Temperance", was built in 1843 and houses a carillon of ten bells. Notre Dame had became the first cathedral of the Diocese of Montreal by this time. Considered to be the largest cathedral in North America, it was supplanted fifty years after construction was completed by St. Patrick's Cathedral in New York. The beautiful stained glass windows of Notre Dame do not depict scenes from the bible (as was the custom) but rather scenes from the religious history of the city. By 1888, church authorities decided that a more intimate chapel was needed for smaller services, so la Chapelle du Sacre-Coeur (Chapel of the Sacred Heart) was built behind the high altar. An unknown arsonist set fire to this chapel in 1978, pretty much destroying it. Using old drawings and photos of the original chapel, it was quickly rebuilt.

Notre Dame, now raised to the rank of Basilica, has been the site for the wedding of Celine Dion to Rene Angelil and for the funeral of former Canadian Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau.

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Montreal's Norte Dame Basilica. The tower to the right is "Perseverance" and the one on the left is "Temperance".
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Close up of the very elegant and beautiful high altar.
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...as seen from the rear of the central aisle.
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What a beautifully sculptured pulpit.
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Chapel of the Sacred Heart , located behind the high altar.
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The matching spiral staircases at the back of the Chapel of The Sacred Heart are almost as beautiful as the sculpture on the altar piece.
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The main organ has 7000 pipes and four keyboards.
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The gardens out back are only accessible to the priests of Nortre Dame Basilica.
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Morrin Center

8/20/2015

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  A building of some sort, representing four major periods in the history of Quebec City, has been on this site since the early 1700's:

ROYAL REDOUBT (1712-1802): In the days of New France, an enclosed defensive structure was built next to the original city walls to serve as a military barracks. After the British captured Quebec in 1759, the Royal Redoubt served as the city's main prison until 1787, when it became a storehouse for the British Army. This original structure was demolished in 1808, to be replaced by the current building.

QUEBEC COMMON GAOL (prison) (1812-1868): This was the city's first purpose-built public prison. For the first time, prisoners were confined in individual cells at night, instead of crowded together. Prisoners had to perform hard labor during the day, but were also offered educational opportunities. They were divided up according to the severity of their crimes; murderers on the ground floor; thieves on the next floor; debaters and those inprisoned for civil crimes on the top floor. However, when new ideas were instituted about "proper conduct", the prison quickly became overcrowded because of public drunkenness, vagrancy, and prostitution. Punishment for capitol crimes was by means of hanging from an iron balcony above the main entrance doorway.

MORRIN COLLEGE (1862-1902): Scotsman Doctor Joseph Morrin founded the first English language institute of higher learning in 1862, which shared rooms with the Masonic Temple. In 1868, the Common Gaol was renovated to make room for Morrin College. When this affiliated with McGill University, courses in general Arts and Sciences were offered. Women were first admitted to the college in 1885 (around the same time as McGill).

LITERACY AND HISTORCAL SOCIETY OF QUEBEC (1824-present): Founded in 1824 by the Earl of Dalhousie, Governor of Lower Canada, this became Canada's first learned society. Following several moves, and two fires, the Society finally settled into the north wing of Morrin College in 1868. It began by gathering historical documents about Canada, as well as encouraging research in all fields of knowledge. Because of its work, the Society was instrumental in founding the National Archives of Canada. Among its other works, the Society helped to preserve some of Canada's heritage, such as the Plains of Abraham battlefield.

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Over the years, the Morrin Center building has been a military barracks, a prison, Morrin college, as well as the home for the Literary and Historical Society of Quebec.
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Scotsman Doctor Joseph Morrin, founder of Morrin College.
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We would love to have a library room like this!
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The balcony level of the library houses the oldest books of the center.
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The professors desk in the chemistry classroom of Morrin College.
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One of the individual cells in the old prison section. Notice the ring on the floor. This was used to secure violent prisoners.
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The common room off of one of the cell blocks.
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This 200 year old oak stairway is original to the building and is still solid and sturdy.
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Montmorency Falls

8/20/2015

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  Approximately eight miles from the heart of Quebec are the 275 foot tall Montmorency Falls. Named in 1619 by Champlain in honor of Henry II, Duke of Montmorency, the falls are 98 feet taller than those at Niagra (but not quite as spectacular, at least not in our opinion). The English general Wolfe had plans to capture Quebec from the French in 1759 by landing his troops near the falls and using it as a base. Remnants of Wolfe's earthen fort can still be seen in the fields next to the falls. Today, the falls play host to an International Fireworks Competition during the summer months.

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The Montmorency Falls as seen from in front of the cable car station that goes to the Inn near the top of the falls.
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There are a lot of observation platforms from which you can watch the falls. Off to the far left of this picture is the Inn where the cable car terminates, mentioned in the previous picture.
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The falls feed into the St. Lawrence River opposite the Isle d'Orleans.
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The multi-level observation platforms take you down to where the falls flow into the St. Lawrence.
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For a truly spectacular view of the falls, you can take this suspension bridge that sits over the crest.
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Looking upriver...
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...and down over the falls.
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Citadel de Quebec

8/19/2015

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  Sitting atop Cap Diamant (the highest point in Quebec) "The Citadel" is still an active military base (i.e. Home of the 22nd Regiment). It is the oldest military installation in Canada and was part of the original fortifications of Quebec. Champlain had recognized the strategic importance of this promontory when he began construction of the original Fort St. Louis in 1608. The first part of the fortified wall was completed in time for the Battle of Quebec in 1690. However, the French balked at constructing a full fort as being too costly. The British also felt a full fort would be too costly to build when they took over Quebec in 1757. This thinking began to change after the Americans attacked Montreal in 1775 and threatened Quebec in the War of 1812. Construction of the current star shaped fort began in 1820 and was completed in 1850. The design eliminated all blind spots along the walls, and grass was allowed to grow wild to help camouflaged the fort. Following the Canadian Confederation of 1867, British forces left and Canada assumed responsibility for its own defense. Since 1920, the Citadel has housed the official residence of the Governor General of Canada and has been home to the Royal 22nd Regiment of Canada, the only totally French speaking force in Canada.

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The main entrance to the Citadel.
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The Royal 22nd Regiment in period costumes for the 400th anniversary of the founding of Quebec in 2008.
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The motto of Quebec ("I will remember") is ubiquitous.
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Part of the cannonade that protected the fort. The large canon at the far end is the largest of its kind in the fort. It was so heavy that it had to be shipped in pieces and reassembled (like Legos) once it arrived. Even though the canon sits on tracks, it took 16 men to swing it around to fire in the correct position.
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Battise, the official mascot of the Royal 22nd Regiment during the Changing of the Guards ceremony.
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The powder house is the oldest surviving building in the fort. In the heyday of the fort, the powder house stored upwards of 22,000 barrels of black gunpowder.
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The Governor General's residence, also known as building number 28, is attached to the Officers' barracks. During the War of 1812, this building served as a curtain wall between two bastions and was an integral part of the defensive system. All Governor Generals of Canada since 1872 have resided here (at least part time).
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One of the sitting rooms of the Governor General's residence.
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The official State Dining room.
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This sunroom could also be turned into a State Dining room during the summer months.
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The Governor General's lounge.
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Norte-Dame-des-Victoires

8/17/2015

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  Situated in La Place Royal (part of the lower town in Old Quebec) is the little church known as Notre-Dame-des-Victoires ("Our Lady of the Victories"). While construction began in 1687, it took 33 years to complete. Originally dedicated to, and named, L'Enfant Jesus, the town's citizens prayed for salvation during the Battles of Quebec in 1690 and 1711. When the British were forced to retreat during the first battle, and their fleet was sunk during bad weather in the second battle, Quebec felt their prayers had been answered and renamed the church, Notre-Dame-des-Victoires. The church was destroyed during another battle bombardment in 1759, but by 1816, was completely restored. It became a National Historic site in 1988.

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Norte-Dame-des-Victoires in La Place Royal.
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The high altar. The ship model hanging from the ceiling is the French vessel Breze" which brought the Marquis de Tracy and a contingent of troops to protect the city. The Marquis commissioned the construction of the model and had it hung in the church.
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We felt this altar was one of the most elegant altars of this whole trip.
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This side altar could be the main altar in many other churches.
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Dublin Folks

8/17/2015

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  We love meeting new people! Fellow travelers, diplomats, just plain folks, all bring a level of enjoyment to this adventure that we would not get just looking at tourist attractions. From the beginning of this journey back in October, to where we are now, meeting new folks and sharing experiences had been absolutely amazing. Followers of our blog are probably well aware of this from the number of postings we have made about all of the wonderful people we have met along the way. Dublin has proven to be just as fertile a ground for "meet and greet" as any of the other places we have visited. Here are the folks we have met here:

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Milan, from Slovenia, was at the junction of O'Connell and Talbot streets in the center of Dublin when we met him.
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James was our guide for a three hour walking tour of Dublin. He is very knowledgeable about the history of Dublin and his stories made this city tour quite enjoyable.
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We met Kevin and Manuela at Le Bon Crubeen restaurant.
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While stopping in at the Dublin Tourist Information Center, we had a lovely chat with Kate, Jaime, and Rhona.
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Of course, like other cities, Dublin has its share of impressive characters. The "pigeon man" was in St. Stephen's park feeding "his" pigeons. He told us that he has made a hobby of rehabilitating injured birds and then bringing them back to the park. He visits them daily in the park to offer them food.
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Only open for the past nine days, "The Story of the Irish" in Smithfield Square provides a unique multi-media look at Ireland's history. Christina and Aoife checked us in.
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Surrounded by Lorraine and me, Claire was the lead character presenter for "The Story of the Irish" museum.
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Amy and Rebecca took care of our sweet-tooth cravings at the Sweet Republic IceCream store.
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Of course, no visit to Dublin would be complete without "meeting" Molly Malone...
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...norJames Joyce.
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Festival

8/11/2015

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  Quebec City (aka "New France"), the capital of Quebec Provence, was founded in 1608 by Samuel De Champlain.The native Algonquins who were living in the area, called it "kebec" (old Algonquin meaning "where the river narrows"). For the past twenty years, the folks of the "Ville de Quebec" (or the old city of Quebec) have celebrated the anniversary of its founding with a five day festival dedicated to depicting life as it existed here in the 17th and 18th centuries. From Champlain's original Fort Saint-Louis, over-looking the river in the upper town, to the lower town (where most of the settlers had their houses), music, re-enacted battle scenes, folks dressed in period costumes, and 17th century craft and food booths were abundant. We had a fabulous time wandering through the throngs and enjoying all of the sights, sounds, and smells of this festival. Presented below is just a sample of this marvelous event;

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The entrance gate to "Old Quebec" city.
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Michelle and Robert, from Chicago, came dressed for the festival.
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These character actors "strolled" through the streets on stilts, entertaining the crowds with their witty banter.
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...of course, there had to be a military band...
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Preparing to defend the city.
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The Kumpa'nia drum band regaled us with their music, enthusiasm, and choreography . They were one of our favorite entertainment groups.

The shear number of folks dressed in all manner of period costumes was staggering;

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...a mother and daughter...
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...a pirate...
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...or three...
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...a 17th century family...
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...well-to-do aristocrats...
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...and Algonquins and fur traders.
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A Promise Kept

8/10/2015

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   While we were in Dublin, we met Milan who was visiting from Slovenia. He asked a passer-by to take this picture of the three of us and promised to send a copy to us once he returned to Slovenia. He kept his promise.

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Quebec

8/7/2015

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  We have returned to North America and are currently in Quebec City, Canada (although spending over six hours sitting on a plane was our least favorite activity). Somehow, this does seem a bit strange; not being on the European continent any longer. Last October's start of this adventure seems so far away now. We have visited 16 cities (with two more to go) within ten different countries. The range of cultures experienced has been thoroughly enlightening and the friendliness of the folks we have met has been mind boggling. And yet, there has been a certain homogeneous quality to every place we have visited. While we have attempted to learn a few words of the language of each country, we really never had a problem communicating. The English language was ubiquitous. Of course, corporations with which we were familiar throughout America have infiltrated the world: Nike, Pizza Hut, McDonalds, Footlocker, T.J. Maxx (although in Europe it is called T.K. Maxx), H&M, etc were everywhere. Still, we would not have missed this for anything. When we sold our house in Massachusetts and decided to travel, instead of rushing to purchase a new house in another part of America, was the "...just right..." decision for us. In approximately five weeks time, this one year adventure will be over and we will travel around the United States visiting our children and grandchildren. And then..."the good Lord willing, the creeks don't rise, and the roads are plowed..." out we go again. Next stop?...weeelllll... You will just have to wait to find out.

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The sitting room in our Quebec apartment.
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Our bedroom is quite spacious and comfortable, with a small balcony off of it towards the front of the house.
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The fully equipped kitchen also has a small sunroom off of it, facing the back yard.
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A Touch of Home

8/4/2015

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  We had a lovely dinner at Le Bon Crubeen in Dublin with Laurie (Fuchs) Delano, her husband Peter, and their sons Justin and Ryan from Weymouth, Mass. Laurie, our son Carl's childhood friend, grew up in Brockton, Mass. They have been vacationing in London, Edinburgh, and Dublin. One month ago, plans were made to meet up for dinner. We are glad to have had this opportunity to be with Laurie and her family and want to thank them for a delightful night out.

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Starting from the left side, Carl, Justin, Ryan, Peter, Laurie, and Lorraine.
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Collins Barracks

8/4/2015

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  This former military barracks is located along the river Liffy, opposite the Guinness Brewery and a short distance from the Jameson Distillery (I wonder if that was a coincidence?). Built in 1701 by the Surveyor General under Queen Anne, The Barracks became a mainstay of British Forces for several hundred years. It was the oldest continuously occupied barracks in the world. In it's heyday, 1500 troops of infantry and two troops of cavalry were housed here. By the 1800's, the complex became dangerously inadequate when disease began to decimate the soldiers living here. Renovations and enlargements were needed to alleviate these conditions. When Ireland became the Irish Free State in 1922, Britain handed over The Barracks and it was renamed after Michael Collins, the first Commander-in-Chief of Ireland. The 5th Infantry Division marched out of Collin's Barracks for the last time in 1997, when it was decommissioned and turned into the National Museum of Ireland.

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Entrance to Collin's Barracks.
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Aerial view of the complex.
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The main quadrangle used for assembly and drilling of the troops.
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The main entrance hall displays military equipment from various decades.
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The soldiers ' living quarters were situated just off the quadrangle.
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Early in the new millennium, a replica of a Viking ship was put on display at what now is the National Museum of Ireland.
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During down times, many soldiers developed hobbies to occupy their time. This tapestry was created by one soldier over 15 years. During a visit to the barracks by Queen Victoria, the proud soldier showed her his completed tapestry.
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Because the complex also housed two troops of cavalry, a riding school was needed to teach new recruits.
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This car was reportedly used by Michael Collins, first Commander-in-Chief of the Irish Free State.
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Equipment that each soldier was issued and had to be stored "neatly" by their bunks.
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In December of 1796, the French sent a fleet to invade Ireland. This boat came from the French Frigate La Resolue and became a prize of war when bad weather drove it ashore.
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St. Michan's Church

8/3/2015

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  This unpretentious little church was originally built around 1095 by the Danish community to serve the Viking population of Dublin. At the time, it was next to an ancient oak forest just outside the city limits. As the city expanded, the forest slowly disappeared and the area surrounding the church became urbanized. For five centuries, this was the sole parish church north of the river Liffy. The original wooden structure was replaced by a stone church around 1695. Beneath the church are several crypts that have become the main church attraction, as those who were buried here became mummified because of the drying effects of the limestone walls. Following the reformation, Henry VIII assigned St. Michan's church to Christ Church Cathedral and it became a Church of Ireland (Anglican). Around 1825, the church was closed for three years in order to undergo extensive restoration work.

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St. Michan's church.
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The rather plain looking high altar still serves an active community.
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The central aisle looking towards the organ loft.
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Even this unpretentious little church has elegant stained glass windows.
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Entrance into one of several underground crypts.
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These stairs were quite steep and a bit difficult to navigate.
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The largest of the crypt area with several vaults off of it.
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Perhaps the most visited vault is this one. While there are no documents left to verify who is here, legend states that the casket on the right contains a female simply called "the unknown"; the center casket contains a male who is missing both feet and his right hand. He is called "the thief"; and the left hand casket reportedly is "a nun". Behind these three is said to be an 800 year old mummy of a "crusader".
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This vault lies behind a heavy oak door and reportedly contains the remains of more wealthy individuals. The lone casket to the left is said to be of an individual abandoned by his family.
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Behind the iron gate are the remains of brothers John and Henry Shearers, barristers who were executed for their part in the Irish Rebellion of 1798.
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Death mask of Theodore Wolfe Tone.
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The last known burial was this cremation base put here in the 1920's.
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Walk-About

8/3/2015

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While visiting regular tourist attractions wherever we have traveled, provides a certain level of enjoyment, what we really love to do is wander about with no particular destination in mind, just to see what we can encounter. We have found more hidden gems this way than we can count. Presented here are some of the things we found during our walk-about in Dublin.

"Audoen's Church" - named after St. Ouen (or Audoen) of Rouen, Normandy, this is the oldest parish church in Dublin, and it is still active. It was built in 1190 by the Anglo-Normans, under the auspices of the St. Anne's Guild. In its heyday, the church was closely connected with the majority of the guilds of Dublin. However, because of declining funds, the church had fallen into a decrepit state by 1630. Various fund raising plans over the succeeding centuries have kept the church vibrant. Within a rear transept is a "Lucky Stone" that has been kept here since 1309. Merchants and traders reportedly would rub it for luck because of its supposed "...strange properties." The stone had been stolen a number of times over the years, but "somehow" it always returned. One legend states that thieves tried to smash it to bits but the stone "..moaned and groaned" as they hit it. So they ran away. The Irish say that they never let the truth get in the way of a good story, so we leave it up to you to believe what you will about this legend.

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Audoen's Church.
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Not a very large church, but it does have character and it is still an active parish after 800 years.
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The seal of St. Anne's Guild.
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The unroofed courtyard next to the church.
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This "Lucky Stone" has been here since 1309.

  "St. Augustine and St. John the Baptist Church" - popularly known as John's Lane church, because of its location, this church was built by the Augustinians on the site of Dublin's first hospital, St.John's (circa 1182). The current church actually dates from 1874. It's 200 foot steeple is the highest in Dublin and is unusual in that it is retangular in shape rather than square.

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John's Lane Church.
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The high altar area is spectacular.
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Close up of the main altar.

"Guinness Storehouse" - Churches were not the only things we found on this walk-about. The Guinness Storehouse is a seven floor structure built around a glass atrium in the shape of a pint of Guinness. The building was first constructed in 1902 as the fermentation plant for the St. James Brewery. This brewery closed in 1988. Then in 1997, Guinness purchased it and began converting it into a museum dedicated to the history of its founder. Arthur Guinness, as well as a history of its advertising. The actual Guinness brewery is just across the street from the Storehouse.

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Arthur Guinness, founder of the brewery.
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The Guinness Storehouse building.
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Across the street is the actual brewery.

During this walk around Dublin, we happened to meet three young lads from Detroit, Michigan who had just arrived and were doing their own walk-about.

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Wyatt, Sheldon, and Micky from Detroit, Michigan, were walking along the Liffy River when we met them.
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Dublin Side Trip

8/2/2015

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  From time-to-time, we have taken side trips away from our base cities. Our trip to Howth was perhaps one of the most spectacular ones we have taken during this adventure. Howth is a former Viking village founded around 819, approximately 8 miles ENE of Dublin. The Vikings named this settlement "Howth" (which is their word for "head") because this peninsular resembles a head, attached to a body (the mainland) by a narrow passageway (the neck). For the Vikings, this settlement served as a strategic base between their homes in Scandinavia and the Mediterranean. Howth eventually fell to the Normans in 1177. By the 14th century, it had become an important trading post. One of the most important attractions in Howth is the 12th century ancestral home of the St. Lawrence family - Howth Castle. A popular legend about the castle, stems from a 1576 visit to Dublin by the pirate Grainne O'Malley. She apparently wanted to pay a courtesy visit to the 8th Baron of Howth. However, she was informed that the family was at dinner and the castle gates were closed to her. Seeking retribution, O'Malley kidnapped the Baron's grandson and heir (the 10th Baron). He was eventually released when an agreement was reached, stating that the castle gates would always remain open to unexpected visitors and an extra place setting would set at each and every meal. This agreement is still honored to this day. Walking through lush forests and heather, we came to unbelievably beautiful cliff walks with spectacular views of the Dublin coast. This side trip was definitely worth it! To add to our enjoyment, our favorite tour guide from Dublin, James, led this tour and provided us with a unique perspective of the area by his historical knowledge and stories of Howth.

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Looking at this map of Howth, one can "sort of" see how the Vikings thought of it as a head.
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Cliff view of Howth harbor.
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The lighthouse at Howth point.
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The gates to Howth Castle, which now remain open to unexpected visitors in large part due to the efforts of the pirate Gainne O'Malley.
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Howth castle, still under private ownership. The family is able to maintain the castle and their surrounding grounds by renting out some of the land to a golf course and a hotel.
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Lush wild flowers and heather cover most of the cliff walk.
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Many beautiful estates line the roadways around Howth.
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Breathtakingly beautiful wooded pathways lead up towards the cliffs.
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Smack dab in the middle of the woods on the Howth Castle grounds,is Aideen's tomb. Wife of the warrior King Oscar, Aideen died of grief when her husband was killed during a battle in which he had killed three other kings. Her family erected this tomb, usually reserved for heroic warriors or kings, in her memory.
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This picture really does not do justice to these spectacular cliffs. The views from here were stunning.
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We could not even estimate how far down these cliffs ran: at least several hundred feet.
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Baldscadden House, Yeats' home in Howth from 1880 to 1883.
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The plague on the wall outside Yeats' home
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We were not the only visitors to Howth.
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    Carl and Lorraine  Aveni are two retirees planning on traveling through Europe for at least one year.

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