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Castle Rochers-Sevigne

6/29/2020

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Originally, this property, known today as the Castle Rochers-Sevigne, once belonged to the Mathefelon family (since the 12th century). Then, in 1410, the property came under the ownership (through marriage) of the Seville family.
Marie de Rabutin Chantel married Henri Sevigne (descendant of the first Sevigne to own the property) in the early part of the 17th century. In 1644, shortly after their union, the newly designated Marquese de Sevigne discovered the summer resort residence and fell in love with the castle. It was here that this most famous resident penned 297 letters (most addressed to her daughter) between 1644 and 1690 during her 16 visits to the estate. By 1715, the Netamiere family had acquired the property and began extensive restorations of the castle.
Reconstructed (In the Gothic style) as an L-shaped structure, with two towers and an octagonal chapel, the castle has remained private property.
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While still remaining under private ownership, this 900;year old castle is one of Vitre’s top attractions.
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Its whole facade, including this main entrance area, creates a storybook-like image.
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Turn-of-the-century archival image of the Castle Rochers-Sevigne.
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Portrait of the Marquese Marie de Sevigne, the castle’s most famous resident because of the many letters she published while vacationing at this summer resort.
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This stand-alone octagonal chapel was built by Marie de Sevigne in 1671 and dedicated to her uncle, the Abbe de Coulanges.
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While the whole complex remains private property, a few rooms have been opened to the public as a museum...
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...in order to provide a glimpse into upper-class life during the Middle Ages.
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Ahhh... the lap of luxury for the weary.
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What a beautiful chair. I would be afraid to sit on it!
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Chateau de Vitre

6/24/2020

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Chateau de Vitre was originally built of wood around the year 1000 AD, on Saint-Croix hill. After it had burned down several times, Baron Robert I finally had it rebuilt in stone at the end of the 11th century.By the first half of the 13th century , Baron Andre III had the chateau rebuilt in its current triangular form.
When the Counts of Leval took over ownership during the 15th century, Guy XII de Leval enlarged the castle/chateau. Later that century (1487), during the ownership of Guy XV de Leval, French troops invaded Vitre and occupied the Chateau (without a fight).
As the plague raged through nearby Rennes during the 16th century, the Parlement of Brittany took refuge from it within the Chateau de Vitre three times (1564, 1582, and 1583). Throughout this same period, as religious persecution rose, the castle served as a Huguenot (French Protestants) stronghold. In 1605, the chateau became the property of the Tremoille family, but was quickly abandoned by the end of the century - resulting in a partial collapse of the castle’s Saint-Laurent tower. During the late 18th century, another fire pretty much destroyed the complex.
Once the 19th century had dawned, a prison was constructed in the northern portion of the residence. Later (1876 - 1877) , it was transformed into military barracks. Towards the end of the 19th century, the town took ownership of the property and began restoration efforts.
Today, Vitre’s Town Hall is located within the old chateau’s walls. Chateau de Vitre became one of the first Medieval castles to be listed as a French Historic Monument (June 1872).
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While not much of the original construction remains, the Chateau de Vitre’s history dates back over one thousand years.
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Imagine passing through this gate during the castle/chateau’s height of existence...
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...and into the main courtyard.
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While under the ownership of Baron Andre III, the Chateau took on its current triangular shape (as depicted in this model).
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This was the main entrance to the castle’s residence.
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Only some of the Chateau’s rooms have been restored and open to the public...
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...but what is available provides a glimpse into affluent medieval life.
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These Polish Canopy beds (known as “ a la Polonaise”) first appeared in the middle of the 18th century.
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A view of the town from the upper floors of the Chateau.
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Pen and Ink sketch of the Chateau de Vitre as it related to the town itself.
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Notre Dame de Vitre

6/22/2020

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Constructed on the highest point in the old town of Vitre, Notre Dame de Vitre is the only preserved church in the town from the Middle Ages.
Robert I, the elected king of West Francia, founded Notre Dame in 1060 as a collegiate church ( one established under two or more pastors, but without a Bishop). Vitre already had been an important entity under both the Merovigian and Carolingian dynasties. So, building a large church that resembled a cathedral here seemed logical. Misconduct by the church’s monks led to its decline, with the result that in 1116, Bishop Marbode of Rennes transferred ownership to the Benedictines.
Between 1480 and 1550, this parish church was totally rebuilt, with funding from rich overseas merchants. The 100 Years War (which had just ended) had caused a lot of destruction within the town, resulting in a massive rebuilding effort.
While Vitre’s Notre Dame has always been a parish church (and never a cathedral), its reconstruction resembled the larger religious edifices throughout France and Europe. In addition to the main altar, there are six chapel altars on the north side of the building and another five chapel altars on the south side. Sitting in the heart of Vitre’s Old Town, Notre Dame is one of the most visited buildings in the area.
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Notre Dame de Vitre (Our Lady of Vitre), founded by Robert I in 1060, is a stunningly beautiful parish church.. while it is large enough to have been a Cathedral, it never served as such.
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The southern facade of the church, with its seven gabled architecture, is the most ornate feature of the building.
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We were amazed by the intricacies of the sculptured middle door on the south facade.
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This outdoor preaching pulpit pulpit was used for large scale events that included overflow crowds.
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Looking towards the elevated main altar area....
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...Where the monk’s choir, with its vaulted ceiling, brings one focus on the main altar and the wonderful stained glass window behind it.
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The original organ was built between 1636 and 1639 and was renovated in 1847.
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The more stunning stained glass windows date from the late 1400’s to the early 1500’s, this one of the entry of Christ into Jerusalem is dated 1537.
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One of the six side chapels on the north side of the church.
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Vitre, France

6/16/2020

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Approximately 27 miles west of Rennes, along the edge of the Provence of Britanny (near Normandy) is the town of Vitre. Sitting on the banks of the Vilaine River, Vitre became a military outpost under the Merovingian dynasty in the late 7th century.
During the Gallo-Roman era, circa 1000 AD, the setttlement became known as “Vitre” - the name deriving from the Gallo-Roman “Victor” or “Victrix” reportedly after a farmer from the region. This occurred when Geoffrey I, the Duke of Brittany bestowed feudal powers upon Riwallon Le Victaire in order to make this strategic region a buffer zone (known as the “Marches of Brittany”) against Norman invasions.
In the late 13th century, Vitre took on its current form as a traditional medieval walled city, when it was encircled by fortified ramparts.. Two hundred years later, the city’s castle was decommissioned as a military post and converted into a “comfortable” residence for one Jeanne of Leval-Chatillon. At the same time, many mansions and half-timbered residences were being constructed within the city.
Since 1472, Vitre’s Market Square became a center for the international trade of textiles. During the French Invasion of Brittany (1488) , the city was seized by Charles VIII’s troops, officially annexing it as part of France. In the 18th century, the city had lost much of its economic vitality and became a town of “...secondary importance.” By the time of the French Revolution (1789), the city had begun to regain some of its economic importance, especially with the arrival of the railroads (which transformed it into a transportation hub).
World War II, had little negative impact on the city. The ensuing economic boom saw the city grow from a post-war 8000 population to over 19,000 by 2018. Today, Vitre has been designated as a town of “artistic and historic significance.”

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Occupying the highest point in town, the Vitre Notre Dame Cathedral was constructed between the 15th and 16th centuries.
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Originally built in the 13th century, the Castle of Rochers-Sevigne has been in the Sevigne family since 1410.
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Built of wood in 1000 AD, Chateau de Vitre burned down so many times that Baron Robert I of Vitre had it re-constructed in stone. It was subsequently rebuilt and expanded over the centuries. During the 17th century, it began to decline and was eventually abandoned before the city purchased it in 1820 and restored it.
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China was the first to create half-timbered houses (in which the structural timbers were exposed), but quickly became fashionable in Western Europe during the Middle Ages.
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Vitre’s narrow streets make it quite picturesque.
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Perhaps the most photographed building in town is the 16th century Madison de Lisle, with its shop on the ground floor and residence up above.
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The fortified Porte d’Embas tower was one of the 18th century city gates.
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Bits and Pieces

6/10/2020

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Throughout our stay in Rennes, we had the good fortune to explore many of its treasures, both large and small. While time somewhat restricts how many of those sites we can share, here is a sampling of Rennes’ “other” places that you might find interesting.
GATE OF MORDELAISES - Under the Roman Empire, Rennes was known as the city of “Condate” (meaning confluence) because it sat at the junction of the Ille and Vilaine rivers. When the the fortifications surrounding the city were built (between 275 and 300 AD), the color of the bricks used in the construction gave the city a nickname of “The Red town.” Of the four cardinal gates through these fortifications, the one considered to be the most important was the Gate of Mordelaises (named for the important parish town -Mordelaises to the west). This was completely rebuilt in 1452. Through this gate, all of the Dukes of Brittany passed when they came to Rennes to be crowned.
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Prior to the unification of France, Rennes was the most important city in Brittany. The Gate of Mordelaises was considered to be the main entrance to the city through the ancient fortifications and became the “Symbol of the Dukes of Brittany” ( since every Duke passed through this gate on his way to be crowned). Of the original four gates through the fortifications, this is the only one remaining.

CHAPEL OF ST. YVES - in 1358, Eudon le Bouteiller, a canon (priest) from the diocese of Treguier, decided to transform his manor in Rennes into a hospice , dedicated to the Holy Virgin and then, later, to St. Yves. This was managed by the Augustinians. One hundred plus years later (1494) the building was totally remodeled into the present day chapel. Today, the building is part of the Rennes Tourist office, presenting exhibitions that recount the city’s history through photos and models. It was designated a national monument in 1945.
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Originally a manor house for Canon Eudon le Bouteiller, this building later became a hospice and then the Chapel of St. Yves. Now-a-days, it is part of the Rennes Tourist Bureau housing exhibits about the history of the city.
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It seems that, at one time, the niches on either side of the main door might have held statues.
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Inside the main nave of the Chapel are displays and architectural models pertaining to the history of Rennes.
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Old photograph (date unknown) of the Chapel of St. Yves

PLACE DES LICES - This Square, which currently hosts the second largest farmers market in France, dates back to the 9th or 10th century when it was used for jousting tournaments (“Lices” means “jousting ground”). Today, upwards to ten thousand visitors arrive here each Tuesday and Saturday to purchase food for the week. But this is more than just a market. Street performers entertain the crowds throughout the day, turning this whole area into a social event.
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Place des Lices plays host to the St. Tropaz market on Tuesdays and Saturdays.
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During the early 1800’s, twelve plane trees (native to Eastern Europe, North America, and Asia and first planted alongside French roadways by Napoleon to provide shade for his troops) were installed in the Place des Lices as decorative shading for visitors.
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Upwards to ten thousand folks come to the market for their weekly groceries.
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While not a true “farmers market,” because many venders get their supplies from major distributors, some local farmers do set up stalls in the market.
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Street performers also provide entertainment during market times.
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During the 9th or 10th centuries, the Place des Lices hosted many jousting tournaments ( as depicted in this old print). “Lices” actually translates to “jousting grounds.”
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    Carl and Lorraine  Aveni are two retirees planning on traveling through Europe for at least one year.

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