Our travel plans are usually set two months ahead, so while we were entering Galway, we had already settled on going to Cork, Ireland and had booked an apartment there. One of the basic tenents we’ve garnered throughout our adventures is to try to remain flexible. This would be seriously tested, when, just two weeks before leaving for Cork, we learned that Airbnb was canceling our rental because the landlord was not following Airbnb’s rules (whatever that meant). While scrambling to find another apartment in Cork, we learned that there were none available within our price range. What To do? After looking at a map, we decided to try Belfast, Northern Ireland. This is the beginning of that part of our journey.
Belfast is the capital of Northern Ireland, as well as the birthplace of the RMS Titanic. The city’s name derives from the Irish “Beal Feirste” meaning “mouth of the River Forset” (basically a sandbar where the Forset River joins with the River Lagen). This area has been occupied since the Bronze Age (3000 BC to 1200 BC). Remains of earlier Iron Age (6th century BC) hill forts have been found in the hills of the Giant’s Ring Henge (a circular or oval shaped bank with an internal ditch surrounding a flat inside terrain) near the city.
By the 17th century, more substantial settlements had developed After Sir Arthur Chichester had established a town here under a land grant from King James. Chichester populated his town with Protestant English and Scots migrants. Once Queen Victoria had granted Belfast “City Status” in 1888, it began to blossom as a commercial and industrial center, becoming the linen capital of the world. In the late 1800’s, Edward Harland and Gustav Wolff established their shipbuilding company in Belfast, eventually becoming the largest shipbuilders in the world. Employing some 35,000 workers and using their giant cranes, Samson and Goliath, H. & W. Created RMS Titanic, RMS Olympia, and RMS Britannia (the largest ships of their time).
Disagreements over Home Rule in 1886, led to riots throughout the city. When, in 1920, Belfast became the capital of Northern Ireland, the country became partitioned off as a result of the “Irish War for Independence .” Sectarian conflicts between the Protestants (under the Ulster Defence Association) and the Catholics (under the Provisional IRA) remained a constant through the years, erupting in serious violence (e.g. bombings, assassinations, and street violence) during the time of “The Troubles” (1969 to 1998). The Good Friday Peace Agreement (1998) put an end to the overt violence between the two groups, although tensions still exist today (such as in the form of gangs of youths throwing rocks at one another occasionally).
Belfast is surrounded by three mountain ranges; the Davis Mountains, the Black Mountains, and the Cavehill (thought to have been the inspiration for Jonathan Swift’s “Gulliver Travels” because it appears to be in the shape of a sleeping giant). Many famous folks have called Belfast home; among them were actor Anthony Boyle; author C.S. Lewis; singer-songwriter Van Morrison; former president of Isreal, Chaim Herzog; former president of Ireland, Mary McAleese; Nobel Peace Prize winner David Trimble; and pitcher for the N.Y. Mets, P.J. Colon. Sister cities to Belfast include Boston, and Nashville.
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Belfast’s City Hall is one of the top attractions within the city center...

...while along the waterfront where Harland and Wolff’s dry docks helped them to become the leading shipbuilders in the world, the Titanic Museum stands as a tribute to their ill-fated ship...

...and H & W’s giant cranes, “Samson” and “Goliath” stand watch over the now empty shipyard.

A turn-of-the-century (ca 1900)photograph of Belfast’s shopping district.

St. George’s Week-End Market is a fun place to visit, not only for farm-fresh food stuffs but also for a bit of live entertainment.

C.S.Lewis Square is full of statuary depicting various characters from the “Chronicles of Narnia.”

Another “huge” attraction in the city is this 33 foot long “Big Fish” - also known as the Salmon of Knowledge” - ceramic mosaic sculpture alongside the River Lagan. Created in 1999 by John Kindness, each of its scales depicts scenes from Belfast’s history

Belfast is a very vibrant and culturally rich city - as evidenced by this group (one of several we encountered) participating in a city-wide clue hunt, dressed as literary or historical characters.

Oscar Wilde once described the region along western Ireland’s Atlantic Coast, which is called Connemara, as “ savage beauty.” It’s filled with fishing villages, diminutive caves, and bogs, while holding to traditional Irish culture. Its name derives from an early tribal group known as “Conmacne Mara.” This sovereign kingdom, which was also known as “Lar Connacht,” was ruled by the Kealy clan until the English invasion during the 13th century. The famous Connemara Green Marble, which was once the main trading treasure of prehistoric tribes, came from this area (and is still widely prized today).
Some of the most famous inhabitants of this part of Ireland are the Connemara Ponies. Known for their good disposition, athleticism, and versatility, they were claimed (by one source) to have been developed when the Andalusian horses of the Spanish Armada, that ran aground in 1588, mated with local stock. During the Great Famine of the 1840’s, much of Connemara’s human population was drastically diminished through death and immigration. In June of 1919, British aviators John Alcock and Arthur Brown completed the first non-stop transatlantic flight by landing in Connemara’s main town of Cliffden.
Among other notables that have claimed a connection with this area include; actor Peter O’Toole (born here in 1932); the family of film director John Ford (real name Sean O’Feeney) ; Michael Morris, Third Baron of Killanin and President of the International Special Olympic Committee; and J. Bruce Ismay, Chairman of the White Star Line (which owned the Titanic)
While this landscape is considered to be harsh, it has developed a strong association with traditional Irish culture - e.g. having the largest population of Irish speaking folks in the country..

Connemara’s rugged landscape is both harsh...

...and beautiful (the 1868 home of the Mitchell Henry family, known as Kyelmore Castle. It is now an abbey for a group of Benedictine Nuns.).

Parts of the region appear quite remote...

...with sparsely populated family huts...

...while other parts, like the capital city of Cliffden, are well populated.

Landing in Cliffden during June of 1919, British aviators John Alcock and Arthur Brown completed the first ever non-stop transatlantic flight.

From an apparent cross-breeding between Andalusian horses from the wrecked Spanish Armada and local stock produced today’s famous Connemara Ponies. Their athleticism and versatility make them well suited as show horses.

We made a stop at Dunguaire castle while exploring the Connemara.

One of the best preserved monastic sites in Ireland is the medieval Franciscan “Ross Errilly Friary” on the border of counties Galway and Mayo. While the locals often referred to it as “Ross Abbey,” that was inaccurate, as it never had an abbott. There are some documents that claim the Friary was founded around 1351, but “official” archeological research and evidence states it was closer to 1460, when the Franciscan monks from Ross Errilly arrived at the request of the Tyrconnell Clan. Life at the friary quickly became disrupted during the English Reformation because the Franciscans opposed King Henry VIII’s break with Rome. By 1538, the English Crown imprisoned some 200 of the monks and banished the rest. At the start of Queen Elizabeth I’s reign, the property had been confiscated and given to Richard Burgh, the second Earl of Clanrickarde. However, he secretly gave it back to the Franciscans.
The friary was once again confiscated by the English in 1584 and the monks were evicted. Two years later, the Earl of Clanrickarde bought the property and again returned it to the Franciscans. When the “Nine Years War (1593 to 1603)” occurred between England and Ireland, the English army turned the friary into a garrison post.
The property continued to switch ownership until Oliver Cromwell invaded Ireland. At that time, the friary became an informal shelter for Catholic Clergy fleeing Cromwell’s troops. In 1753, the monks once again abandoned the property because of religious persecution. They never returned and the building descended into ruins.
​ Today, as a National Monument, Ross Errilly Friary is maintained by the Office of Public Works and is open to visitors, free of charge. It has been featured in such films as “Bad Karma,” “Moving Target,” and the series “Reign.”

Officially founded over 550 years ago, Ross Errilly Friary is the best preserved medieval monastic site in all of Ireland.

Near the Black River, the friary sits on the border of counties Galway and Mayo.

Over the years, life for the monks here was fraught with periodic evictions before they finally abandoned the property in 1753.

An 1867 image of the friary from William Wilde’s book “Lough Corrib.”

The interior of the friary is huge.

It even had a well for live fish to serve as a food source for the monks.

While the friary itself has been abandoned since the mid-1700’s,, locals have continued to use the grounds for burials up until modern times.

We had a delightful visit.

Approximately 325 million years ago, glacial movement deposited around 220 square miles of cracked limestone throughout southwest Ireland (mostly in County Clare), and today is known as “The Burren” (meaning “great rock”). These deposites created caves, cliffs (including the Cliffs of Moher) and fossils. During the Mesolithic era (8000 to 7000 BC), the Burren looked differently from what it does today. It was mostly covered with pine, yews, and deciduous trees. Around 4000 BC, human settlements began to spring up, changing the landscape by deforestation, as well as construction of stone walls and portal tombs. Most of the area had been turned into “pastoral farms” (i.e. agriculture devoted to producing grazing livestock).
By the end of the Bronze Age (circa 2000 BC), population throughout the Burren began to decline, because of volcanic activity and apparent climate change. Small tribes, known as “The People of Modhruadh” ( baronies) controlled the area during the Medieval ages.
In spite of its current rocky state, the Burren has become renowned for its collection of animals and plants. Over 70% of Ireland’s species of flowers can be found here. Both alpine and Arctic loving plants are living side by side in the Burren. Of the thirty species of butterflies and moths found in Ireland, twenty-eight are present throughout the Burren. Feral goats can be seen cavorting across its hillsides, with foxes and badgers running along its plains.
​ This rugged, but beautiful landscape, now one of Ireland’s six National Parks, has been designated as a “Special Area of Conservation.” It also is one of our favorite places in Ireland.

Glaciers that covered Ireland 325 million years ago, left cracked limestone deposits ( commonly known as “The Burren”) all over county Clare.

Some of those deposits resulted in the development of the Cliffs of Moher.

There is a rugged beauty to this landscape.

Once humans arrived and developed settlements, the landscape changed; gone were the forests of yews, pine and deciduous trees; to be replaced by stone walls and pastoral farms.

These settlers/farmers quickly learned that by dry building their stone walls (with the stones on the vertical plane rather than the horizontal), their walls would last longer in the windy climate.

In spite of the Burren’s rocky terrain, plants and flowers do thrive here. In fact, over 70% of Ireland’s flower species can be found on the Burren.

Feral goats also seem to thrive in this harsh environment.

St. Nicholas Collegiate Church is the largest medieval parish church in continuous use throughout all of Ireland. Located in the heart of the medieval center of Galway, it is dedicated to Saint Nicholas of Myra, patron saint of children (aka Santa Claus), as well as of mariners. While it is unclear as to when construction of this church was begun, it was completed, and dedicated, in 1320, when Galway was just a small village. At the time, it’s congregation had decided to build a parish church much bigger than most existing Irish Cathedrals. One legend claims that the current building was built on the site of an earlier church constructed by the Knights Templar, but this has never been verified. One of the notable events that occurred within the church happened when Christopher Columbus prayed here during his 1477 visit to Galway.
During the 16th century, the church was greatly enlarged when two families of the 14 Tribes of Galway (i.e. the Lynches and the Frenches) each financed new side aisles to the nave, generating an almost square interior, while, at the same time, creating its three-roofed exterior profile. When Oliver Cromwell’s troops laid seize to Galway in 1652, it is said that that they used the church to stable their horses.
​ There is a lot of history tied to this collegiate church, making it a must stop when visiting Galway.

The largest medieval parish church in Galway is the St. Nicholas Collegiate Church locate on the edge of the old part of town.

Just inside an entrance hallway is this timeline of events around the church.

This 1890 photo clearly shows off the unusual three-roof profile of the church.

There is a simple elegance to the interior.

While it still functions as a place of worship, history is a big part of this structure, as evidenced by this 400 year old baptismal font.

On the opposite side of the church from the baptismal font is this Celtic Cross Memorial to those who died during the Great War (World War I).

The tomb of Adam Burns (also known as “The Crusader”) is the oldest within the church.

In a fine example of cooperation, the church provides space for Russian Orthodox services.

The nave is supported by six stone columns, five of which are exactly alike...

...the sixth is fluted, rather than round, and is known as the “Apprentice Column” (reminiscent of a similar one in the Templar chapel in Roselyn). The story behind this is that the master mason was unable to complete his work on the columns, as he was called away to another project. He put his apprentice in charge of finishing the last column. In a fit of “creative fervor,” the apprentice made his own changes to the design. Upon his return, the master mason was not entirely pleased (to say the least).

Back in the 13th century, the Anglo-Norman De Burgo family, led by Walter, the First Earl of Ulster, founded Galway. His grandson, Richard (1259 to 1326), who was called the “Red Earl”, became one of the most powerful nobles of the era, even being ranked number one amongst all the Earls of Ireland. Richard constructed Galway’s first municipal buildings, which was used “...to collect taxes, dispense justice, and host banquets...” This building became known as the “Hall of the Red Earl.”
During the 15th century, the Tribes of Galway seized power from the De Burgos and forced them out of the city. For awhile afterwards, the Hall was transformed into an iron workshop, before being abandoned and subsequently falling into ruin.
Over the following centuries,, the site was covered over and built upon. When a new public works project began in 1997, the remains of the Hall of the Red Earl were rediscovered, halting the project while archeological excavations took over.
As the oldest ruins of Galway, at that time (later to be supplanted by the ruins of a slightly older building around the corner, under a woolen sweater shop), this public works project had to be redesigned so the Hall could be preserved. Today, this Hall of the Red Earl is one of Galway’s top tourist attractions.

Located along Druid Lane in Galway’s Latin Quarter, these ruins of the Hall of the Red Earl are just a stone’s throw from the mouth of the Corrib River, and its nearby Spanish Arch.

Artist sketch of what the Hall of the Red Earl looked like in its heyday.

Here is a base of one the supporting columns. In the above picture, this base can be seen near the top center.

A copy of the 1651 map of Galway indicates where the Hall of the Red Earl was located.

Once the Tribes of Galway had forced the De Burgo family out of power, the Hall of the Red Earl was transformed into an iron workshop. This stone structure is where the smelting process took place.

Here is a display case which depicts a part of the archeological excavation process along with some of the artifacts discovered.

Our “Cliffs of Moher” day trip continues with a few more interesting stops.
CONG - Along the border of counties Mayo and Galway, is the sleepy village of Cong (founded around the 12th century). Its Gaelic name, “Cunga Feichin” (meaning “Saint Feichin’s Narrows”) indicates the village is an island isthmus between Lakes Corrib and Musk, and is known for its underground streams. In the early to mid-1800’s, this was the home of eye surgeon Sir William Wilde, father of novelist Oscar Wilde. Near the center of the village are the ruins of the 12th century Cong Abbey (built for the Augustinian friars) in which the last high King of Ireland, Rory O’Connor, spent his final days.
Today, the village is best known as the filming location for John Ford’s 1952 epic “The Quiet Man” starring John Wayne, Maureen O’Hara, and Barry Fitzgerald. Much of the movie was filmed on the grounds of Ashford Castle (originally built by the Guinness family), now a luxury hotel.

The village center of Cong, Ireland.

The 800 year old Guinness Family’s Ashford Castle served as the main filming location for “The Quiet Man.”

During the 17th century, monks from the Cong Abbey used this fishing house to catch their daily food supplies.

Ruins of the 12th century Cong Abbey sit on the very edge of the village’s center.

Known as “White O’Morn” in “The Quiet Man” movie (where Maureen O’Hara’s character lived), this was leased from Local farmer, Walter Joyce and his wife Bridget, for $125/per day - a huge sum in the 1950’s.

John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara Statue in the center of Cong Village.

DUNGUAIRE CASTLE - One of the most picturesque locations on Galway Bay is the 16th century tower house known as “Dunguaire Castle.” It’s name derives from the “Dun (ancient fort) of King Guaire” - the legendary King of Connacht. Built in 1520 by the O’hEidhin clan, it’s 75 foot tower and defensive walls are one of the most photographed castles in Ireland and provides an insight into the medieval lifestyle.
There are a number of legends about the castle; one of the most frequently quoted, states that if someone stands at the castle’s front gate and asks a question, they will have their answer by the end of that same day. From mid-April until mid-October, this castle plays host to medieval style banquets.
Dunguaire Castle was featured in the 1969 Disney movie, “Guns In The Heather,” as well as the 1979 film, “North Sea Hijack.”

The 500 year old Dunguaire Tower House sits on the edge of Galway Bay and is considered the most photographed castle in all of Ireland.

During the 16th century, sitting rooms, such as this, often became the center of family life...

...although, the family dining room came in a close second place.

Nowadays, Dunguaire castle plays host to medieval-style banquets, similar to what we experienced at “King Richard’s Fare” In The Medieval Manor back in Boston.

POULNABRONE PORTAL TOMB - Located on one of the highest and most desolate points in County Clare is one of Ireland’s most famous Portal Tombs (of which there are 172 throughout the country) - Poulnabrone. Built by local farmers sometime during the Neolithic era (circa 4200BC to 2900 BC), the tomb consists of three vertical stones supporting a single horizontal capstone. Speculations about its original purpose abound; ranging from a territorial marker, to a symbol for a complex burial rite; to a center for religious rituals.
Archeological excavations of the site back in 1986 revealed the remains of several humans, dating to circa 3800 BC to 3200 BC. However, with no totally intact skeletons, archeologists believe the bodies had been stored elsewhere while they decomposed, and only the bones remained, prior to some sort of complex religious ritual for an elite group, especially since there is no evidence of any ongoing burials. There is some evidence that the site was used well into the Bronze Age, and perhaps even into the early medieval Celtic era.
Today, this National Historic Site sees around 200,000 visitors per year, making it the second most popular tourist attraction in Ireland (after the Cliffs of Moher).

Considered to be Ireland’s most famous Portal Tomb, Poulnabrone sits on the highest point in County Clare.

Some believe these portal tombs were territorial markets, while others think they were symbols of some sort of complex religious ritual for the elite. [Notice, the area close to the rock formation is roped off; according to park rangers, vandalism had become an unfortunate occurrence].

This is truly a desolate, and quite rocky (mostly limestone) location...

...but the views are stunning!

A MUST day trip from Galway City is to the stunning “Cliffs of Moher.” These sea cliffs, located on the southwest edge of the Buner region in County Clare, are eight miles long and range in height from 390 feet to 720 feet above the Atlantic Ocean. The highest point is located mid-way along the cliffs, at O’Brien’s (Watch) Tower (built in 1835).
The cliffs take their name from an old promontory fort called “Moher” (Gaelic meaning “ruined fort”) located on the southern most part of the Cliff’s coastline. The fort was eventually demolished in 1808 to provide material for a lookout/telegraph tower in case of a French invasion during the Napoleonic Wars.
With over 1.5 million visitors per year, the Cliffs are one of the most popular tourist destinations in Ireland, and they have been designated as a UNESCO Heritage Site. At the base of the Cliffs are a number of underwater caves that have been dated as being 300 million years old and which are connected by a series of river channels.
The Cliffs of Moher have been featured in a number of movies, including “The Princess Bride” as well as “Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince.”
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Some of the best views of the Cliffs are right next to the Visitor Center.

Over millenniums, the wave action of the ocean cut caves into the rock face.

For the adventurous (or fool-hearty), there are parts where you can get up close and personal with the Cliffs...

...fortunately, we had an attack of sanity and stayed safely away from the edge.

Along the way, we saw additional sites, such as these “Little Cliffs”...

...(a “miniature” version of what was to be discovered further down the road)...

...unexplained rock wall paintings...

...even a rock formation known as “Larry the Leprechaun” (with its eyes, nose, and mouth) to look after passing tourists.

​KYLEMORE ABBEY - As part of this day long trip, we made a stop at the exquisite Benedictine monastery known as the “Kylemore Abbey.” Originally built as “Kylemore Castle” in 1868 as the private family home of Mitchell Henry (a doctor and politician). The castle contained 70 rooms, of which 33 were bedrooms, 4 were bathrooms, as well as various accessory rooms (e.g. sitting rooms, smoking rooms, Library, etc), including a school room, sundry offices, and staff residences.
The castle was sold to the Duke and Duchess of Manchester in 1903. They lived here until being forced to sell due to gambling debts. In 1920, the Irish Benedictine Nuns purchased the castle after fleeing Belgium during World War I. Even though this former castle has been open for public tours since the 1970’s, the Nuns still reside in a portion of the building.

This 150 year old, 70 room, former castle, is now the home of the Irish Benedictine Nuns. Surrounded by hills and a lake, Kylemore seems like a fairytale location.

Numerous gardeners were working tirelessly to keep the grounds looking pristine.

What a fantastically sculptured fireplace (located in the main foyer of the castle)! One of the most elegant we’ve experienced (the majority having been made of stone).

One of the four sitting rooms in the castle.

Reminiscent of the TV series, “Downton Abby,” dining seems to be a quite formal affair.

In 1874, Mitchell Henry built this Gothic Chapel in memory of his wife, Margaret, who had died suddenly while they were on holiday in Egypt.

What a lovely stop on our day trip...but there is more to come.