Tallahassee serves as Florida’s State Capital and the county seat of Leon County. In 1824, it had been designated as the capital of the Florida Territory.
Prior to the arrival of the Europeans, indigenous peoples inhabited this area for thousands of years. The Mississippian Culture had erected earthen mounds around Lake Jackson circa 1200 AD, and most still survive today. Hernando de Soto, the Spanish explorer, occupied part of this area between 1538 and 1539. Later, Spain established its first colonial settlement in St. Augustine and by the 17th century had set up a number of missions in the Apolachee Territory (today’s Florida Panhandle). Their largest mission was Mission San Luis de Apolachee in today’s Tallahassee (now a partially reconstructed tourist attraction).
The name Talllahassee derives from the Muskogean language (most likely from the Creek sub-sector), meaning Old Fields or Old Town . This group of Native Americans eventually evolved into the Seminoles.
Florida became part of the American Territory during September of 1821. The first session of the Florida Territorial Legislative Council met on July 22, 1822 in Pensacola - the former capital of Western Florida. It then alternated its meetings with the capital of Eastern Florida (St. Augustine). Deciding that the long journey required to hold meetings in both capitals required too much travel time, they sought a better alternative. The Council settled on a halfway point between the West and East Florida capitals, i.e. Tallahasseee. This frontier settlement gradually grew as a town. By 1845, a Greek Revival masonry structure was erected as the territorial capital building. This would eventually become known as the Old Capital following the construction of a new high-rise State Capital building in the 1970’s.
Tallahassee had been the heart of Florida’s Cotton Belt and center of the slave trade in the state. During the Civil War , it was the only Confederate State Capital not captured by Union forces and the only one not burned.
In the course of the 19th century, the institutions that would eventually become Florida State University were established in Tallahassee, thus turning it into a University town. Following the Civil War, many former plantations were purchased by wealthy Northerners to use as winter hunting preserves. In the 1960’s, a movement developed to transfer the State Capital to Orlando in order to be closer to the state’s growing population. This effort was defeated.

Tallahassee City Hall.

Florida’s State Supreme Court

The old historic State Capital building sits in front of the new 23 story State Capital.

Among the many historic attractions that dot the Tallahassee landscape is this Grove Plantation.

Tallahassee as it appeared in this 1885 overview.

Sitting on the corner of Park Ave. and Monroe St. is this historic 1919 clock. One story states that this was originally part of a brick Clock Tower outside the home of famous architect Calvin Phillips...

...Following Phillips death, the clock tower was dismantled so the bricks could be repurposed. The clock mechanism was later auctioned off by his descendants.

The oldest surviving bank building in Tallahassee is this one belonging to the Union Bank.

The very first Catholic Church on Florida’s west coast was established in Tampa during 1860. It was named Saint Louis Parish in honor,of a Dominican missionary who was martyred on the shores of Tampa Bay in 1549. Following a Yellow Fever epidemic in 1888, which took the lives of the local priests, the Jesuits assumed responsibility for the parish.
By 1892, Tampa had grown sufficiently that the citizenry felt the need for a new church. Groundbreaking occurred in 1898, with the cornerstone being laid two years later. It was officially dedicated in 1905 and renamed Sacred Heart. Parts of the new construction included a 135 foot dome and 70 stained glass windows. A school , called Sacred Heart Academy, was opened in 1931 and operated until 2012.
By 2005, the Jesuits had withdrawn from running the parish in order to focus on their academic institutions. Rev. Robert Lynch, the Diocesan Bishop at the time, invited the Franciscan Friars of the Most Holy Name of Jesus Province to assume responsibility for the parish.
A marker was installed on the exterior of the church in 2010 to recognize its historical significance.

Located on North Florida Ave. in downtown Tampa, Sacred Heart Church was constructed in 1905 in the Romanesque style.

Archival photo of the church shortly after its dedication.

The main altar is beautifully done (obviously they are expecting a wedding to take place soon).

Well depicted in this postcard is the workmanship that’s went into creating the main altarpiece.

Equally impressive are the decorations on the underside of the dome over the altar.

Sacred Heart has 70 exquisitely stained glass windows throughout the building....

...and, of course, a magnificent pipe organ.

Law enforcement in Tampa was first established in 1885. At that time, an act to incorporate the city included the creation of a City Marshall position. Back then, part of the City Marshall’s duties included “...examining and recording marks and brands on butchered cattle.”
Thirty-one years later, an official police force was established by city ordinance. This small force included a Chief of Police (who replaced the City Marshall), an Assistant Chief, a Sergeant, and three mounted officers. On September 26, 1895, John McCormick became the first police officer to die in the line of duty.
After another one hundred years had passed, a group of modern day officers came together to formulate a plan to recognize those who had died on the job and to create a museum that would teach the public about the science of policing. While the official opening occurred in 1998, the actual collection of items that would go into the museum began forty years earlier. Some of those items dated back to the 19th century.
Tampa artist, J.J. Watts, created the Memorial to Fallen Officers. It consists of a cut-out silhouette of a uniformed officer, symbolizing his/her being missing from the department, family and friends. This Memorial stands in the old Line-up room , which also served as the Detective Division’s roll-call room, on the ground floor of the Head Quarters building.
We have visited a number of museums dedicated to law enforcement in our travels. Tampa’s is a well done, professional looking depository.

Created and opened in 1998, the Police Museum is located as part of Tampa’s Police Headquarters.

Some of the items on display began to be collected in the late 1950’s, forty years before the creation of the museum.

The collections include some old items...

...and some new.

In 1934, John Dillinger was placed on the FBI’s Top Ten Most Wanted list.This circular from the Illinois State Bureau of Criminal Identifcation and Investigation was distributed to local police departments around the country.

What did she do to land behind bars?

A 1940’s archival photo of Tampa’s Detective Squad.

In a previous blog piece, we had posted about meeting the 59th Mayor of Tampa, Jane Castor (elected in 2019)....

....At that time, we had learned that Ms. Castor had served 31 years on the Tampa Police Force (1984 to 2015), the last six years as its Chief of Police.

Situated on the ground floor of Tampa’s Police Headquarters is this memorial to its fallen officers, created by artist J.J. Watts.

Designated The Mother of African-American Schools, the historic Harlem Academy was the first public school for African-American children in Tampa. Classes were originally held in the Hillsborough County Courthouse until 1868, when a permanent building was erected (financed by the The Friedman’s Bureau of the government). At its opening, this structure was known as Tampa School No. 2. By 1889, a new building had been constructed and it officially became known as Harlem Academy. Four years later, this building was destroyed by fire. The African-American community raised funds to rebuild the school. In the meantime, space for the students was provided by the nearby St. Paul AME church.
The new school opened in 1895, eventually to be replaced by a all brick building in 1912. One of the school’s principals, Christina Meacham, helped to organize the Florida Negro Teacher’s Association. As a result, in 1923, the school was renamed in her honor.
​ Harlem Academy (now known as the Meacham school) closed in 1968, later to be demolished to make way for apartments and condos. A historic marker was erected on the site of the school in 2008.

Located on East Harrison Street near North Morgan Street, this Historic Harlem Academy marker was erected by the School District of Hillsborough County, Historic Harlem Academy Alumni, and the Hillsborough County Historical Advisory Council.

When the Academy was destroyed by an 1892 fire, the nearby St. Paul AME Church provided space until a new building was completed in 1895.

The all brick Harlem Academy School of 1912.

This archival photo is of the Class of 1960...

...and of an earlier Class (probably taken in the 1950’s).

Located along one side of the city’s Centennial Park is the Ybor City Museum. Housed in the former Ferlita Bakery building, it was originally known as “La Joven Francesca.” (The Young Francisco).
Established in 1896 by Francisco Ferlita, a Cuban-Italian immigrant, this was the first U.S. bakery to specialize in making Cuban bread - i.e. similar to French or Italian baguette-like loaves but made with all-white flour and using lard or vegetable shortening. At the time, the bakery created between 300 and 500 loaves per day, each selling for three to five cents a loaf. The bread was delivered every morning to local homes with sturdy nails driven into their door frames on which the loaves were impaled.
A devastating fire destroyed the original bakery in 1923. It was eventually rebuilt, this time much larger, making it THE major bread supplier in Tampa. The bakery finally closed for good in 1973. It was then totally renovated and transformed into a museum, in 1977, dedicated to conserving the city’s rich history and heritage.

Cuban-Italian immigrant Francisco Ferlita established his bakery in Ybor City toward the end of the 19th century...

...and a quarter of a century later it had become,THE major supplier of Cuban bread in Tampa ( making approximately 35,000 loaves per year).

After Francisco died in 1931, his five sons continued the business until its final closing in 1973. Following a total renovation of the building, it reopened in 1977 as a museum...

...dedicated to preserving the history and heritage of this unique city, totally created, populated, and owned by immigrants.

Cigar manufacturing was what made this neighborhood of Tampa famous.

Much of the tasks in making cigars is repetitive and somewhat boring. In order to entertain employees while they worked, “readers” were hired (and paid for by the workers themselves) to inform them of local news. He would also read poems and books to the workers. The employees themselves would vote on what was read to them.

Located next to the bakery-museum is this Mediterranean-style garden which is often used as the site for private parties, wedding receptions and/or corporate events.

Founded in the 1880’s by Vincent Martinez-Ybor, the city quickly grew into the cigar capital of the world. In order to attract the immigrants he would need to make his cigars, Ybor built hundreds of small housing, some of which have been preserved .

In the early 1880’s, Tampa was considered to be an isolated village.However, because it had a good harbor, an excellent climate, as well as the newly installed Henry Plant railroad, Cuban cigar magnate Vincent Martinez Ybor saw its attractiveness as an ideal location for his expanding empire. By 1885, Ybor had purchased 40 acres in northeast Tampa to locate his new base of operations. He then began to gobble up additional surrounding lands.
This visionary entrepreneur knew that It would be necessary to have a large influx of employees to make the quantity of cigars he needed for his customers. In order to attract immigrant workers to his factories, Ybor built hundreds of small houses. Thus, Ybor City was born.
Florida’s first industrial town was annexed by Tampa in 1887 - two years after Ybor founded it. Ybor is unique among American Southern Towns in that it was entirely populated and owned by immigrants.
This Tampa neighborhood flourished until the Great Depression of the 1930’s, when demand for cigars diminished and industrial mechanization cut into employment. By the 1970’s, large portions of Ybor City had been abandoned. A decade later, an influx of artists began to revitalize the town, renovating many of the old cigar factories into studios, night clubs and restaurants. Eventually, Ybor City was designated a National Historic Landmark and it’s main commercial thoroughfare, 7th Avenue, was labeled one of the “...10 Great Streets in America.”

Ybor City is only three miles from downtown Tampa, but, by far, the best way to get there is by trolly....

...and this mode of transportation is free!

The City, which is really considered a neighborhood of Tampa, welcomes visitors with open arms.

Ybor’s main attraction is 7th Avenue’s commercial district...

...and one of the oldest occupants is the Columbia Restaurant.

Its very colorful ceramic tile exterior indicates that this restaurant has been run by six generations of the Hernandez family since 1905.

Cigar magnate Vincent Martinez Ybor knew he had to bring in large numbers of workers to keep his business growing. So he built hundreds of small affordable housing to attract immigrants.

Several of these homes have been preserved for their historical significance.

A number of Ybor cigar stores still make their products by hand....

...and are willing to instruct tourists on the process of making cigars.

The arriving immigrants that helped to develop Ybor City also brought chickens with them. It is estimated that approximately 300 feral chickens now live in the city and are direct descendants of the earliest residents from over 100 years ago. In order to protect these birds, a city ordinance specifies that it is illegal to feed or tamper with them or their eggs. There is a city employee whose job is to care for them.

In the heart of Ybor City is Centennial Park, which honors those who helped to create the city. On Saturdays, this is the site of Ybor’s Farmers Market...

...a very popular weekend pastime for locals and tourists alike.

Covering nine acres along the east bank of the Hillsborough River, the Straz Center for the Performing Arts opened in July of 1987 known then as the “Tampa Bay Performing Arts Center.” Following “...the largest philanthropic gift ever made to a cultural institution in Tampa...” in November of 2009 by financier David A. Straz, Jr., it was renamed in his honor.
This is the second largest performing arts complex in the southeastern United States (after the Adrienne Arsht Center in Miami). This complex consists of five distinct theaters - (1) the Carol Morsine Hall (2600 seats); (2) Ferguson Hall (1042 seats); (3) Jaeb Theater (292 seats); (4) TECO Energy Foundation Theater (250 seats); and (5) the Shimberg Playhouse (130 seats). In addition, the Center also houses a rehearsal hall, retail shops, restaurant, and banquet facilities. Another portion of the Center is the Patel Conservatory (an educational program) consisting of 20 studios, a sound/lighting laboratory, a technical theater workshop, and a costume shop (among other venues).
On average, just over 600,000 guests per year visit this complex to see Broadway shows, Grand Operas, and/or concerts. We were fortunate to receive a private guided tour of the facilities during our Tampa stay. Our thanks go to the staff of the Straz Center for the Performing Arts for their generous hospitality.

This complex of five performance centers, and so much more,offers some of the best entertainment in the city...

...including the most popular shows Broadway has to offer.

Everything about this complex is impressive.

With 2600 seats, the Carol Morsine Hall is the largest theater of this complex.

Two budding performers take to the stage!

At 40 feet wide and 20 feet deep, the Jaeb theater can be configured for stadium or cabaret seating.

Ferguson Hall is the second largest theater in the Straz Center.

A more intimate area is the Shimberg Playhouse.

In addition, there are 20 smaller studios and a bunch of technical workshop areas for every aspect of the performing arts.

A truly amazing backstage area allows for incoming theatrical performances to unload and reload all of the equipment and scenery.

The Straz Center’s Maestro Restaurant (located above the Jaeb Theater) is one of three dining facilities in the complex (along with Maestro’s Cafe and Maestro’s On The River).

Maestro ‘s also offers banquet facilities for up to 200 guests.

Henry B. plant created an empire in Florida of railroads, steamships, and hotels through the late 1800’s. The flagship of his empire , and for which he is most noted, is his luxurious “Tampa Bay Hotel.”
Entirely paid for out of his own pocket (with no outside investors), the hotel took two years to complete. It was a quarter-mile long, covered six acres, and had 511 rooms. Each of the rooms were all electric (a first for Florida) and each had its own telephone (most had a private bath).
Opened in February of 1891, the Moorish Revival styled building contained six minarets, four cupolas, three domes and was considered to be fireproof. In addition, to having the first elevator in Florida, Plant’s Tampa Bay Hotel boasted a barbershop, beauty salon, telegraph office, flower shop, a formal dining room and a music room with a full orchestra. The grounds of the hotel spanned 150 acres and included an 18 hole golf course, race track, boat house, tennis courts, hunting and fishing areas, and a casino. In all, there were 21 buildings throughout the complex.
When the Spanish-American War occurred in 1898, Plant was able to convince the U.S. Military to use his hotel as a base of operations. Colonel Teddy Roosevelt and his Rough Riders were among the military personnel that stayed here, holding battle exercises on the grounds., prior to invading Cuba.
Many famous personalities enjoyed the luxurious hospitality of Plant’s wonderful establishment. Among these were Clara Barton, the Prince of Wales, Sarah Bernhardt, Winston Churchill, and Babe Ruth.
When the Great Depression hit in 1930, the hotel suffered along with the rest of the country, eventually closing. It remained empty and unused until 1932 when the Tampa Bay Junior College moved in and transformed the rooms into offices and classrooms. Eventually, this college became the University of Tampa. While most of the upper floors of the hotel continue to function as part of the University, the South Wing of the ground floor has been transformed into a museum focusing on the Golden Age of Tourism (circa 1870 to 1900). Today, the building is a U.S. National Historic Landmark.

Henry B. Plant (1819 to 1899) created an empire of hotels, railroads and steamships.

His most renowned achievement was the Tampa Bay Hotel, which he completely funded from his own pocket.

The hotel’s most recognized features were the six minarets which gave it the Moorish Revival image.

This was truly a very elegant edifice.

As the hotel was being constructed, Plant toured Europe in search of furnishings that would fit the image of luxury he wished to create for his hotel.

The main foyer as it looked on opening day...

...and as it appears today.

Among the many services the hotel provided was exemplified by this room dedicated to music.

Throughout the day, many of the hotel’s guests would spend time in the Writing and Reading Room ( reading newspapers of the time or writing correspondence that would travel to all corners of the world).

This is the most historic room in the hotel. All the furniture and artwork are original to when the hotel opened in 1891.

Teddy Roosevelt and his Rough Riders made the hotel their base of operations as they prepared to invade Cuba during the Spanish-American War.

We visited Tampa during December of 2019, so everything was decorated for the holiday.

During its heyday, the hotel was a very popular tourist destination, in spite of its high price-tag for the time ($15 per day when most other accommodations were $5 per day or less).

Twenty years ago (1999), a group of residents living along the banks of the Hillsborough River, formed the “Friends of the River.” Their stated mission was to promote the importance of the river to Tampa’s economy and, thus, to make sure the waters stayed clean.
However, what the group is most noted for is their sponsorship of the annual “Holiday Lighted Boat Parade.” Held a few days before Christmas, this parade, which is meant to celebrate the life restored to the River, includes all types of water craft ( up to 200 vessels for the 2019 event), decorated in the holiday spirit. The watercraft owners who wished to participate, lined up at Tampa’s Convention Center and traveled the River, following the Riverwalk, to Armature Works and then returned.
As has been the case with many events we have witnessed during our travels, happenstance informed us of this parade. We were fortunate that our apartment was only a couple of blocks from the Hillsborough River. This allowed us the opportunity to secure a prime viewing area next to the Curtis Hixon Waterfront Winter Village in plenty of time to see the whole parade.
It was interesting to experience Christmas without the typical snow on the ground, to which we had grown accustomed.
As you will notice in the accompanying photographs, this viewing spot had the parade of boats backdropped by the illuminated University of Tampa campus and its Henry Plant historic hotel. It was perfect. We did not include any captions to the pictures because we felt they spoke for themselves ( although the first two photos are of the Curtis Hixon Waterfront Winter Village area). We were amazed by the variety of decorations on the boats. Some were simple, while others were quite elaborate.
​ So....why Christmas in July? By now, you may have noticed that there is a delay between an event or attraction we experienced and our blogging about it. The answer is that we often see as many as five different attractions in a day, but only are able to blog about one ( because of the time it takes to gather information, put it into a cohesive format, and then choose appropriate pictures for each posting . On top of that, Weebly limits the number of photos we can attach to each posting). So in December of 2019, we were in Tampa for a month and got to see this marvelous parade.

Much of Tampa’s waterfront, back in the 1970’s, was older warehouses and commercial properties that dealt with the Port of Tampa. William Poe, the mayor at that time, envisioned a walkway and park behind the city’s civic center. Originally, this was supposed to have been a short boardwalk on the east side of the Hillsborough River. Disinterest in the project by subsequent administrations and a lack of funding, stalled it for a long time.
In 2002, then mayoral candidate, Pam Lorio decided she wanted to re-jumpstart the project. Following her election, construction began behind the Amalie Arena, along with a fund-raising campaign to complete the project.
By 2014, a Federal Transportation Grant was awarded in order to connect all the existing segments into one 2.6 mile long continuous park. Completed in 2016, the new Riverwalk extended past the Straz Center for the Performing Arts. During the course of construction, a total of 18 bronze busts of prominent figures in Tampa’s history were installed along the walkway.
​ Today, in addition to connecting several waterfront parks, the Riverwalk passes a number of Tampa’s museums, making this a family treasure.
​

Tampa’s three year old Riverwalk is a treasure worth exploring.

It follows the Hillsborough River through the center of town.

While exploring the Riverwalk, we came across this pavilion sponsored by the city’s National Football League team ...

......but.... it’s a ice skating rink? Football and ice skating...now that’s a combination!

What a beautiful day! Who would guess that this is mid-December?

Water taxis can transport folks to various locations along the River.

Connecting various parks along its route, the Riverwalk provides everyone with something to do...

...including children.

Is this for real?... in the middle of the city?

Along the walkway are 18 bronze statues of prominent citizens in Tampa’s history, including this one of Civil Rights attorney Frangiago Rodriguez Jr.

Following Tampa’s original incorporation in 1855, the city began a steady growth with immigrants from Cuba, Spain, and Italy. These new transplants created a growth-industry that quickly became the backbone of Tampa’s economy; cigar manufacturing.
By 1915, Tampa needed a new city hall. Built on land that once had been occupied by an 1842 frame house, the new structure was designed by Malachi Leo Elliott. The eight story “layer-cake” building included ornamental head decorations modeled on Seminole Native American women with braided hair. A four story annex served as Tampa’s police headquarters.
C. Hortense Oppenheimer, socialite daughter of a prominent physician (Louis Sims Oppenheimer) was immensely bothered by the fact that the new city hall did not have a clock tower. She soon launched a fund raising campaign to put one on the building. Her organization, “Ye Town Criers” raised $1,200, which was matched by private donors. For her efforts, Tampa named the clock tower “Hortense the Beautiful.”
During the 1960’s, the four story annex that served as police headquarters had deteriorated so badly that it had to be demolished (a new police headquarters building was constructed across the street). By 1974, Tampa’s City Hall had been listed on the National Register of Historic places. The structure underwent $16 million renovation in 2017.

Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, Tampa’s City Hall is definitely worth a visit.

It even sports its own postcard.

One of the unique features of the exterior is a series of ornamental head decorations modeled on Seminole Native American Women.

Dr. Oppenheimer with his daughters C. Hortense, Irma, Olive, Dorothy, and Carmen (1919). Hortense was instrumental in raising funds to add a clock tower to Tampa’s City Hall.

Her efforts resulted in a beautiful addition to the building.

This annex to City Hall originally served as police headquarters until the 1960’s , when it had to be demolished because of deterioration.

When we toured Tampa’s City Hall, the nice folks in the City Clerk’s office recorded our visit...

...and Karencia offered to serve as our guide.

This lounge near the City Council chambers also hosted small group meetings.

The elevator controls referenced a bygone era.

We got to see the City Council Chambers up close and personal...

...and even held our own meeting (nothing substantive was passed).

During our visit, we were fortunate to meet Mayor Jane Castor just as she was ready to take her dog for a walk.

Well, our travel plans have now directed us back into the United States for awhile in order to visit family and see our doctors. As a result, we decided to spend some time exploring parts of the South we had not experienced previously.
​ Situated on the west coast of Florida, Tampa is the third largest city in the state (after Miami and Jacksonville) and Tampa’s port is the largest in Florida.
The shores of Tampa Bay have been inhabited for thousands of years. The Weeden Island culture ( a Native American culture defined by their use of ceramics) had existed in this area about two thousand years ago. At the time of the arrival of the Europeans in the early 16th century, the Tocoboga Native American group dominated the area - its principal town was located at the northern end of Tampa Bay. Scholars believe that Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto may have visited this area as early as 1539. The earliest documented mention of “Tampa” was as “Tanpa”” around 1595. A Spanish shipwreck survivor by the name of Hernando de Escalante Fortanda, spent 17 years as a captive of the Calusa, a southwest coastal Native American tribe. He wrote about his travels throughout much of the Floridian penninsula with the Calusa. At that time, the Spanish had called this area “The Bay of the Holy Spirit.”
Unfortunately, the indigenous cultures of the region began to colapse by 1600 because of the infectious diseases they were exposed to from the Europeans. This left the west coast of Spanish Florida largely depopulated for the next two hundred years.
By the end of the 1600’s, the Spanish had named the area “Tampa Bay”, perhaps the name having been derived from the Calusa language , in which the port was called “itimpi”, meaning “ ...close to or nearby.”
In the mid-18th century, the events surrounding the development of the American Colonies began to drive the Southern Florida Seminole peoples into Northern Florida. By the end of the century, these were mixed with immigrants from Cuba, Italy, and Spain as they flooded into the area and founded West Tampa and Ybor City ( now the historic district of Tampa).
After the U.S. purchased Florida from Spain in 1821, the government began to build forts and trading posts throughout this new territory. One such complex was Fort Brooke, established in January of 1824 at the mouth of the Hillsborough River in Tampa Bay. By mid-century, the pioneer community surrounding the fort became known as “Tampa Town” (later shortened to just “Tampa”). Today, Tampa is a fast growing community and a popular tourist destination

Looking across the Hillsborough River towards the Tampa skyline.

The main drags through the downtown area can accommodate a lot of traffic.

Tampa’s Union Station is one of its big tourist attractions.

Railroad tycoon Henry B. Plant built this Tampa Hotel. This Moorish and Turkish style architecture served as headquarters for Teddy Roosevelt’s Rough Riders prior to their warring expedition to Cuba.

One of the great city features is this free trolley service to the historic Ybor City district.

These trolleys are attractions in themselves.

Ybor city was founded over 135 years ago by Cuban, Spanish, and Italian immigrants...

... and has been known for its ties to the manufacturing of cigars.

While we were exploring Tampa’s Old City Hall, we got to meet Jane Castor, former police chief and current mayor of the city.

Originally, this property, known today as the Castle Rochers-Sevigne, once belonged to the Mathefelon family (since the 12th century). Then, in 1410, the property came under the ownership (through marriage) of the Seville family.
Marie de Rabutin Chantel married Henri Sevigne (descendant of the first Sevigne to own the property) in the early part of the 17th century. In 1644, shortly after their union, the newly designated Marquese de Sevigne discovered the summer resort residence and fell in love with the castle. It was here that this most famous resident penned 297 letters (most addressed to her daughter) between 1644 and 1690 during her 16 visits to the estate. By 1715, the Netamiere family had acquired the property and began extensive restorations of the castle.
Reconstructed (In the Gothic style) as an L-shaped structure, with two towers and an octagonal chapel, the castle has remained private property.

While still remaining under private ownership, this 900;year old castle is one of Vitre’s top attractions.

Its whole facade, including this main entrance area, creates a storybook-like image.

Turn-of-the-century archival image of the Castle Rochers-Sevigne.

Portrait of the Marquese Marie de Sevigne, the castle’s most famous resident because of the many letters she published while vacationing at this summer resort.

This stand-alone octagonal chapel was built by Marie de Sevigne in 1671 and dedicated to her uncle, the Abbe de Coulanges.

While the whole complex remains private property, a few rooms have been opened to the public as a museum...

...in order to provide a glimpse into upper-class life during the Middle Ages.

Ahhh... the lap of luxury for the weary.

What a beautiful chair. I would be afraid to sit on it!

Chateau de Vitre was originally built of wood around the year 1000 AD, on Saint-Croix hill. After it had burned down several times, Baron Robert I finally had it rebuilt in stone at the end of the 11th century.By the first half of the 13th century , Baron Andre III had the chateau rebuilt in its current triangular form.
When the Counts of Leval took over ownership during the 15th century, Guy XII de Leval enlarged the castle/chateau. Later that century (1487), during the ownership of Guy XV de Leval, French troops invaded Vitre and occupied the Chateau (without a fight).
As the plague raged through nearby Rennes during the 16th century, the Parlement of Brittany took refuge from it within the Chateau de Vitre three times (1564, 1582, and 1583). Throughout this same period, as religious persecution rose, the castle served as a Huguenot (French Protestants) stronghold. In 1605, the chateau became the property of the Tremoille family, but was quickly abandoned by the end of the century - resulting in a partial collapse of the castle’s Saint-Laurent tower. During the late 18th century, another fire pretty much destroyed the complex.
Once the 19th century had dawned, a prison was constructed in the northern portion of the residence. Later (1876 - 1877) , it was transformed into military barracks. Towards the end of the 19th century, the town took ownership of the property and began restoration efforts.
Today, Vitre’s Town Hall is located within the old chateau’s walls. Chateau de Vitre became one of the first Medieval castles to be listed as a French Historic Monument (June 1872).

While not much of the original construction remains, the Chateau de Vitre’s history dates back over one thousand years.

Imagine passing through this gate during the castle/chateau’s height of existence...

...and into the main courtyard.

While under the ownership of Baron Andre III, the Chateau took on its current triangular shape (as depicted in this model).

This was the main entrance to the castle’s residence.

Only some of the Chateau’s rooms have been restored and open to the public...

...but what is available provides a glimpse into affluent medieval life.

These Polish Canopy beds (known as “ a la Polonaise”) first appeared in the middle of the 18th century.

A view of the town from the upper floors of the Chateau.

Pen and Ink sketch of the Chateau de Vitre as it related to the town itself.

Constructed on the highest point in the old town of Vitre, Notre Dame de Vitre is the only preserved church in the town from the Middle Ages.
Robert I, the elected king of West Francia, founded Notre Dame in 1060 as a collegiate church ( one established under two or more pastors, but without a Bishop). Vitre already had been an important entity under both the Merovigian and Carolingian dynasties. So, building a large church that resembled a cathedral here seemed logical. Misconduct by the church’s monks led to its decline, with the result that in 1116, Bishop Marbode of Rennes transferred ownership to the Benedictines.
Between 1480 and 1550, this parish church was totally rebuilt, with funding from rich overseas merchants. The 100 Years War (which had just ended) had caused a lot of destruction within the town, resulting in a massive rebuilding effort.
While Vitre’s Notre Dame has always been a parish church (and never a cathedral), its reconstruction resembled the larger religious edifices throughout France and Europe. In addition to the main altar, there are six chapel altars on the north side of the building and another five chapel altars on the south side. Sitting in the heart of Vitre’s Old Town, Notre Dame is one of the most visited buildings in the area.

Notre Dame de Vitre (Our Lady of Vitre), founded by Robert I in 1060, is a stunningly beautiful parish church.. while it is large enough to have been a Cathedral, it never served as such.

The southern facade of the church, with its seven gabled architecture, is the most ornate feature of the building.

We were amazed by the intricacies of the sculptured middle door on the south facade.

This outdoor preaching pulpit pulpit was used for large scale events that included overflow crowds.

Looking towards the elevated main altar area....

...Where the monk’s choir, with its vaulted ceiling, brings one focus on the main altar and the wonderful stained glass window behind it.

The original organ was built between 1636 and 1639 and was renovated in 1847.

The more stunning stained glass windows date from the late 1400’s to the early 1500’s, this one of the entry of Christ into Jerusalem is dated 1537.

One of the six side chapels on the north side of the church.

Approximately 27 miles west of Rennes, along the edge of the Provence of Britanny (near Normandy) is the town of Vitre. Sitting on the banks of the Vilaine River, Vitre became a military outpost under the Merovingian dynasty in the late 7th century.
During the Gallo-Roman era, circa 1000 AD, the setttlement became known as “Vitre” - the name deriving from the Gallo-Roman “Victor” or “Victrix” reportedly after a farmer from the region. This occurred when Geoffrey I, the Duke of Brittany bestowed feudal powers upon Riwallon Le Victaire in order to make this strategic region a buffer zone (known as the “Marches of Brittany”) against Norman invasions.
In the late 13th century, Vitre took on its current form as a traditional medieval walled city, when it was encircled by fortified ramparts.. Two hundred years later, the city’s castle was decommissioned as a military post and converted into a “comfortable” residence for one Jeanne of Leval-Chatillon. At the same time, many mansions and half-timbered residences were being constructed within the city.
Since 1472, Vitre’s Market Square became a center for the international trade of textiles. During the French Invasion of Brittany (1488) , the city was seized by Charles VIII’s troops, officially annexing it as part of France. In the 18th century, the city had lost much of its economic vitality and became a town of “...secondary importance.” By the time of the French Revolution (1789), the city had begun to regain some of its economic importance, especially with the arrival of the railroads (which transformed it into a transportation hub).
World War II, had little negative impact on the city. The ensuing economic boom saw the city grow from a post-war 8000 population to over 19,000 by 2018. Today, Vitre has been designated as a town of “artistic and historic significance.”

Occupying the highest point in town, the Vitre Notre Dame Cathedral was constructed between the 15th and 16th centuries.

Originally built in the 13th century, the Castle of Rochers-Sevigne has been in the Sevigne family since 1410.

Built of wood in 1000 AD, Chateau de Vitre burned down so many times that Baron Robert I of Vitre had it re-constructed in stone. It was subsequently rebuilt and expanded over the centuries. During the 17th century, it began to decline and was eventually abandoned before the city purchased it in 1820 and restored it.

China was the first to create half-timbered houses (in which the structural timbers were exposed), but quickly became fashionable in Western Europe during the Middle Ages.

Vitre’s narrow streets make it quite picturesque.

Perhaps the most photographed building in town is the 16th century Madison de Lisle, with its shop on the ground floor and residence up above.

The fortified Porte d’Embas tower was one of the 18th century city gates.

Throughout our stay in Rennes, we had the good fortune to explore many of its treasures, both large and small. While time somewhat restricts how many of those sites we can share, here is a sampling of Rennes’ “other” places that you might find interesting.
GATE OF MORDELAISES - Under the Roman Empire, Rennes was known as the city of “Condate” (meaning confluence) because it sat at the junction of the Ille and Vilaine rivers. When the the fortifications surrounding the city were built (between 275 and 300 AD), the color of the bricks used in the construction gave the city a nickname of “The Red town.” Of the four cardinal gates through these fortifications, the one considered to be the most important was the Gate of Mordelaises (named for the important parish town -Mordelaises to the west). This was completely rebuilt in 1452. Through this gate, all of the Dukes of Brittany passed when they came to Rennes to be crowned.

Prior to the unification of France, Rennes was the most important city in Brittany. The Gate of Mordelaises was considered to be the main entrance to the city through the ancient fortifications and became the “Symbol of the Dukes of Brittany” ( since every Duke passed through this gate on his way to be crowned). Of the original four gates through the fortifications, this is the only one remaining.

CHAPEL OF ST. YVES - in 1358, Eudon le Bouteiller, a canon (priest) from the diocese of Treguier, decided to transform his manor in Rennes into a hospice , dedicated to the Holy Virgin and then, later, to St. Yves. This was managed by the Augustinians. One hundred plus years later (1494) the building was totally remodeled into the present day chapel. Today, the building is part of the Rennes Tourist office, presenting exhibitions that recount the city’s history through photos and models. It was designated a national monument in 1945.

Originally a manor house for Canon Eudon le Bouteiller, this building later became a hospice and then the Chapel of St. Yves. Now-a-days, it is part of the Rennes Tourist Bureau housing exhibits about the history of the city.

It seems that, at one time, the niches on either side of the main door might have held statues.

Inside the main nave of the Chapel are displays and architectural models pertaining to the history of Rennes.

Old photograph (date unknown) of the Chapel of St. Yves

PLACE DES LICES - This Square, which currently hosts the second largest farmers market in France, dates back to the 9th or 10th century when it was used for jousting tournaments (“Lices” means “jousting ground”). Today, upwards to ten thousand visitors arrive here each Tuesday and Saturday to purchase food for the week. But this is more than just a market. Street performers entertain the crowds throughout the day, turning this whole area into a social event.

Place des Lices plays host to the St. Tropaz market on Tuesdays and Saturdays.

During the early 1800’s, twelve plane trees (native to Eastern Europe, North America, and Asia and first planted alongside French roadways by Napoleon to provide shade for his troops) were installed in the Place des Lices as decorative shading for visitors.

Upwards to ten thousand folks come to the market for their weekly groceries.

While not a true “farmers market,” because many venders get their supplies from major distributors, some local farmers do set up stalls in the market.

Street performers also provide entertainment during market times.

During the 9th or 10th centuries, the Place des Lices hosted many jousting tournaments ( as depicted in this old print). “Lices” actually translates to “jousting grounds.”

One of the more interesting discoveries we’ve encountered during our stay in Rennes was literally just around the corner from our apartment; “Les Champs Libre” ( translated to mean “ free field”).
Opened in 2006 on the Esplanade Charles de Gaulle - a site that has hosted parades, festivals, and fairs for centuries - this is actually a complex of three buildings;
CITY LIBRARY - Looking like a glass pyramid covering six floors, it contains over 700,000 pieces of literature in its collections - making it the largest in Brittany.

• MUSEUM OF BRITTANY - This focuses on the history and traditions of the region from the Stone Age until present time - often described as “...a journey to discover the culture and daily life of Brittany from prehistoric times up to the 21st century.”
  

SCIENCE CENTER - Constructed in the shape of a cone, this center includes “Merlin’s Lab,” where visitors can try their own hands at thirty different experiments; a planetarium; and the “Hall of Earth.” Which offers insights into the geological history and biodiversity of our planet.

Les Champs Libre is a complex of theee structures within one building that creates “... a unique blend of science and art.” (Quote from a Rennes Tourism brochure).

Taken from an upper floor balcony, this photo presents a birds-eye view of the entrances to each section of the complex.

With over 700,000 pieces of literature in its collections, the six floors of the City Library were constructed to resemble a glass pyramid.

Considered to be the largest library in Brittany, one can easily explore the history of literature in comfort here.

Focused on the history of the region from the Stone Age to the 21st century, the Museum of Brittany offers a unique view into the development of western France’s culture and traditions.

As is the case in all societies, the culture of Brittany was displayed by the evolution of its clothing.

Visitors enter the Science Center from the ground floor of Les Champs Libre.

Merlin’ Lab is a fun place for children..
​

...in which they can try their hands at 30 different experiments.

For the explorers in all of us, the Science Center’s Planetarium provides an opportunity to seee “..what’s out there!”

In addition to the three main attractions , there is a 4000 seat auditorium for large events (e.g. lectures, concerts, meetings, etc.).

It’s road trip time again!
Saint Malo is a port city 43 miles north of Rennes, with a reputation at one time of having been a stronghold for “Corsairs” ( i.e. French Privateers).
Originally founded by the Gauls during the first century B.C., it later became known as the Roman settlement of “Reginca” or “Aletum.” When the Western Roman Empire began to lose its influence, the inhabitants of this region, which was now known as St. Malo (having been established as a monastic settlement by Saints Aaron and Brendon) rebelled against Roman rule, eventually declaring itself an independent republic.
During the 17th century, this port city had become an important international trade center. As a result, France found itself in nearly permanent conflict over trade with other maritime nations - especially England. Many Bretons in and around St. Malo took on contracts with the king to act as “Corsairs” ( i.e. privateers), forcing ships traveling through the English Channel to pay tribute. One of the best known privateers at this time was Captain Rene Dugyay-Trouin, who had captured over 300 merchant ships and 16 warships. The French King eventually appointed him as Lieutenant-General of the French naval armies. The Corsair shipowners became so rich from their activities that they built beautiful mansions known as “Malouniers” outside the city walls. By 1758, England had become so bothered by their ships being hounded by these Corairs of St. Malo, that British troops decided to raid the city in order to put a stop to their activities. However, after having destroyed thirty Corsair vessels, the British were unsuccessful at capturing St. Malo, instead only occupying nearby St. Servin.
​ From August to September of 1944 (during World War II) St. Malo was almost totally destroyed by Allied bombings. It took twelve years (1948 to 1960) to rebuild the city.
Perhaps the best known former inhabitant of St. Malo was the explorer Jacgues Cartier who had lived in and sailed from the city during his expeditions up the Canadian St. Lawrence River to Quebec and Montreal. Today, St. Malo’s tall granite walls and its central Cathedral (with Romanesque and Gothic architecture), along with its beautiful stained-glass windows, are top tourist attractions.

Walking the ramparts of this walled city provides a wonderful perspective of both the city and the harbor.

St. Malo’s Coat of Arms grace the entrance to the old city...

...where visitors can meander its cobblestone streets.

Early 18th century map of St. Malo.

Circa 1900 painting of the walled city of St. Malo by Emil Krause.

Old Fort National ( constructed in 1689 to protect the port) on the tidal island of L’Llette. Originally the site of a lighthouse beacon, the fort was at first called Fort Royal. From June to September, access is only gained by foot during low tide....
​

.... we managed to do that, which in of itself was interesting because when we first arrived, this was totally covered in water. And yet, a couple of hours later we were standing on dry sand.

Moored in the harbor, just outside the city walls, is the “Etoile du Roy” (“Star of the King”) replica of a 1745 frigate Corsair.

An example of the “Malouiers”/ mansions that the Corsair shipowners built in and around St. Malo.

Officially known as the “ St. Vincent de Saragosse de St.Malo” church ( built between 1146 and 1163 on the site of an ancient 7th century church), this cathedral sits in the center of the walled city.

Its stained-glass windows...

...and magnificent Rose window are highlights of its interior.

This columned-wall is part of the cathedral’s cloister, where the monks would meditate.

Saint Peter’s Catherdral in Rennes is one of nine historic cathedrals throughout Brittany. Its location in the heart of the city has been the site of cathedrals , and the seat of the Archdiocese of Rennes, Dol, and Saint Malo, since the sixth century. During the twelfth century, the earlier church was replaced with a Gothic-styled structure. However, the construction of this newer building left a lot to be desired, as, in 1429, the Tower and the West Facade collapsed.
Rebuilt over the next two centuries (with long gaps between construction stages), the old cathedral was completely replaced. However, this construction also had some faults; in 1754, a large stone fell from the roof of the choir. It was then decided to demolish everything before the whole building collapsed. This demolition occurred between 1756 and 1768, leaving just the formerly rebuilt tower and western facade intact. Rebuilding began in 1787 but was suspended when the French Revolution took place. By 1816, reconstruction began again., finishing by 1845. During this period of reconstruction, the Abbey church “Our Lady in Saint Melanie of Rennes” served as the pro-cathedral (i.e. temporary substitute). This Abbey church had been dedicated to the first bishop of Rennes (St. Melanie) who was buried on the grounds in the sixth century.
During 1906, the Cathedral was designated as a historic monument since it was the only church in Breton modeled after a Roman Basilica. The coronations of all the Dukes and Duchess of Brittany have occurred in this Cathedral.

Rennes’ St. Peter’s Cathedral has gone through several reconstructions over the years, some because of poor prior construction.

Still, the finished product is beautiful.

A view of the main altar from the choir loft by the organ.

While exploring the cathedral, we spotted this illuminated angel statue with the organ in the background and thought it presented a great image.

Painter Alphonse le Henaff painted this fresco, above the main altar, of Christ handing the keys of heaven to St. Peter.

Amongst the several side chapels in the cathedral is the St. Michel chapel which hosts this statue of St. Anne in front of a magnificent stain glass window.

Every cathedral we’ve visited presented wonderful rose windows. This one caught our attention because of the sun rays illuminating the interior.

Works of art abound throughout the Cathedral.

The cathedral’s “Treasury Room” contained this exquisitely sculptured altar piece. We could only imagine the craftsmanship it took to create such a work of art.

During the early to mid-19th century reconstruction of Rennes’ St. Peter’s Cathedral, the Abbey Church of Our Lady in Saint Melanie of Rennes served as the substitute cathedral.

One of the most beautiful parks in France is Rennes’ “Parc du Thabor.” Formerly, these were the orchard gardens for the monks of the Saint-Melanie Benedictine Abbey. The monks named the gardens “Thabor” in reference to Mount Tabor ( believed by Christians to have been the site of the Transfiguration of Jesus) which overlooks Lake Tiberius in Galilee, Israel.
​ Originally, this piece of land was a 184 foot (above sea level) hill that dominated the city. Documents first mentioned the hill when the Benedictine monks of the Saint-Melanie Abbey established gardens here, for the exclusive use of the Abbey. Following the Great Fire of 1720, Thabor became the seat for the Bishop of Rennes.
During the French Revolution, all ecclesiastical properties were confiscated and made part of the State. By 1793, the City of Rennes had acquired the property, with the intention of constructing a general hospice here. A 1795 decree was issued that stated all provincial capitals needed to establish a central school of some sort. As a result, the state chose the Bishop’s palace at Parc du Thabor for the school of Natural History and the former grounds of the Bishop became a Botanical Garden.
By 1811, the Bishop had initiated a legal battle to reclaim his old property. After three years of haggling , the courts decided to return to the Bishop that portion of the gardens attached to his house. Throughout the 19th century, the city acquired adjacent properties to Thabor and enlarged the gardens. Quarrels between the Bishop and the monks over a vast portion of the gardens resulted in the Bishop referring to it as “L’Enfer (“Hell” in French). Plans called for the construction of a reservoir on the newly acquired land so the city would have sufficient water reserves to fight a repeat of the Great Fire of 1720.
Today, Parc du Thabor includes a French Garden, an English Park, caves, band stand, aviary, a rose garden ( with over 2000 varieties), nine waterfalls, and ponds.

Entrance fountain to Parc Du Thabor along the Rue De Paris in Rennes

A late 19th century map lay-out of the Thabor Park

The flowers in bloom present a spectacular image of the various gardens in the park...

...with the bandstand in the background.

This Orangery (greenhouse) fits the image of the Parc du Thabor as a grand estate.

One of the nine picturesque waterfalls in the park.

Someone has an eye for design.

Entrance to the English Garden section of the park.

During a squabble between the Bishop and the monks, the former nicknamed this area “L’Enfer” (“Hell”).

With over 2000 different varieties, this Rose Garden is one of the highlights of the park.

DISCLAIMER: Dear followers, please note that, while we are still posting about our travels around the world, we are not currently on the road. Fortunately, we were here in the States when the Coronavirus hit and are now hunkered down near our family. Since we tended to see 4-5 attractions each day ( when we were traveling), but can only blog about one at a time, what you are currently viewing happened seven months ago (long before the onset of this disaster). Please stay safe and we hope you continue to enjoy our postings.

The most important historical building in Rennes is the “Parliament of Brittany.” However, this was not the typical purely legislative edifice we have come to know, but, rather, a court of justice.
Prior to 1789, when all “Parlement” offices were formally put to an end , the Parlement de Bretagne was a “...sovereign court of justice...” handling appeals from lower jurisdictions (i.e. an appeals court). It did have some restricted legislative powers and was deemed to be autonomous from the monarchy ( established as the “Breton Liberties” under the Treaty of Union with France.
In 1532, the Dutchy of Brittany officially became part of the Kingdom of France. Twenty-one years later, the “Parlement de Bretagne” was established, with it location alternating between Rennes (August to October) and Nantes (February to April). Rennes began to raise taxes for the construction of a new parliament building in 1578. Its foundation stone was laid in 1618 and the building opened in 1655.
Louis XIV became angry with Rennes for its support of the Stamp Duty Revolt and punished the city by moving parliament to Varennes in 1675, Fifteen years later, it was able to return to Rennes. When France set up new administrative areas in the country during 1790, Rennes’ Parliament opposed it and refused to send representatives to the “ Etats Generaux.” So, the French government shut Rennes’ parliament down. By 1804, things had eased a bit between the city and the country, with the result that Rennes was able to host a new Court of Appeals.
A devastating fire on February 4-5, 1994 (set off during violent demonstrations by local fishermen) destroyed the Parliament building. It took five full years to restore the building to the level that it could reopen. This seat of the regional appeal court attracts large numbers of tourists each year, and is one of the few places in France where justice and tourism coexist.

Officially opened in 1655 (after 35 years of construction), Rennes’ “Parlement de Bretagne” eventually became the most important historical building in the city. Noted more as a Court of Appeals rather than a purely legislative edifice, it went through a lot of turmoil over the years.

Half-hour tours are the only way to visit the building’s interior.

This main reception hall seems more suited for a palace than a court of Justice

Its medallion, depicting the city’s Coat of Arms, dominates the Waiting Room ceiling.

A rather plain doorway is the entrance to one of the most spectacular rooms in the building...

... the Grand Chamber, in which the limited legislative powers were decided.

However, the main purpose of the building was to serve as a Court of Justice, hearing appeals from lower jurisdictions.

Like most official buildings of its era, the Parlement de la Bretagne sported a central courtyard.

A spectacular fire (as depicted in this archival photo) in 1994 during a demonstration by local fishermen destroyed the building. It took five years to restore the building to its former glory.

Sitting on the edge of Place de la Mairie, directly opposite City Hall, is the Rennes Opera House, considered to be the smallest in France (with seating for only 642 patrons). Reflecting the 18th century trend for curved architecture, it was opened in 1836 and was nicknamed “The Theater.” It’s convex facade fits the concave shape of City Hall across the plaza ( although they were built in different eras).
Prior to the Opera House’s construction, the area was a large empty space that, reportedly, was awaiting the construction of a private mansion for the governor of the Provence. That never happened. Opera House architect, Charles Millardet, was inspired by the ancient Theater of Marcellus in Rome. Thus, his design was dominated by ten statues depicting Apollo (Greek god of the arts), surrounded by his muses. The building’s rounded facade, built in Italian-style, was not very popular with Rennes’ inhabitants, who would have preferred it being constructed in the flat facade French-style, because of national pride.
During 1856, a chimney fire in the Opera House’s foyer destroyed the building. It was subsequently rebuilt to its original appearance. The seating plan for opera attendees mirrored the class distinctions of the times; facing the stage on the ground floor was seating reserved for the “middle class,” while the first balcony and box seats were designated for the upper class/ wealthy patrons. The top balcony , nicknamed by locals as “the gods’” section, was designated for students and prostitutes ( we will leave to your imagination as to why these two groups were intermingled). Located under the stage proper was space for rehearsals.
At the time of the Opera House’s opening, the stated primary reason for attending a performance was “to see and be seen.” Thus, its interior horseshoe shape, with the boxes facing the public (rather than the stage) made it more of a place for socializing than respecting the actors’ performance.
While the Opera House’s origins were steeped in the early 19th century traditions, its life today reflects modern technology. Every two years, its performances are displayed onto the big screens of thirty cities around the Brittany area. In addition, open-air performances, displayed on City Hall Plaza’s big screens, attract at least twenty thousand patrons.

Opened in 1836, the convex shape of Rennes’s Opera House was designed to fit the concave shape of City Hall across the plaza (even though they were constructed in different eras). This is considered to be the smallest Opera House in France.

A fire in the hearth of Rennes’s Opera House foyer, during 1856, was not dealt with properly, resulting in the destruction of the building . Afterwards, it was decided to rebuild the structure according to the original plans.

Visitors can avail themselves of guided tours of the building...

...or explore it on their own.

Legends have it that the original horseshoe shape of the seating area was more conducive to socializing than watching the performances. Designed by J.J. Lemordent in 1913, the ceiling frescoe covering the dome depicts a Breton “Farondole” ( a dance in which participants lock arms in a chain pattern) leading to the sky.

Located under the main stage is space for rehearsals.

A 2017 advertising brochure image depicting one of the Opera House’s performances being shown electronically on big screens to 20,000 patrons in City Hall Plaza (the Opera House is in the background and the attendees are facing City Hall).

Officially known as “Place de la Mairie,” City Hall Plaza is located in the center of Rennes, almost on the banks of the river Vilaine. After the Great fire of 1720 had devastated most of the town, City Hall was built, between 1734 and 1743. This three-story complex actually consists of two classical buildings - (1) the Rennes Presidial (the judicial courts of France) and (2) the offices of the Mayor and most of the administrative services, including the Department of Law).- connected by a quarter set-back circle, which plays host to the Clock Tower.
Architect to the King, Jacques Gabriel, was inspired to join these structures into a single building by the works of other great architects, e.g. Le Vau and Hardouin-Monsart. In the original design , the niche under the clock tower housed a statue of King Louis XV. This was destroyed during the French Revolution 1789). From 1793 until, at least 1799, a guillotine was situated on the Plaza in front of City Hall for public executions.
In 1963, the City Hall complex was designated a historical monument, protected by the government.

Built in a nine year period, beginning in 1734, Rennes’ City Hall combined two classical buildings , with a central clock tower, into a single structure.

When it was originally constructed, the niche below the clock tower contained a statue of King Louis XV. However, during the French Revolution, this statue was destroyed at the height of the anti-monarchy fervor.

Some of the exquisite workmanship that went into the construction of this edifice can be seen in the massive main doors.

Jacque Gabriel, architect to the king, was inspired to create this building by the works of fellow architects, La Vau and Hardouin-Monsart

We saw a number of superb ( and well preserved) tapestries hanging throughout City Hall.

Le Grand Salon has been used for large scale municipal meetings - such as when representatives from all over Brittany met here in 1788 to discuss “... financial equality throughout the province.”

For smaller gatherings, Le Petite Salon was used.

Noted features in Le Petite Salon are the portraits of Rallier du Baty, mayor of Rennes from 1696 until 1734...

... and Jean Leperdit, Rennes’ mayor from 1794 until 1795.

Other delightful features displayed in the building were this magnificent stained glass window...

...and this exquisite clock.

Also within the complex is this small room dedicated to those French citizens who died during the “Great War” (1914- 1918).

This plague discribes the dedication...

...along with all the names of those who died.

Noted for its Medieval half-timbered houses, Rennes, France, located at the junction of the Ille and Velaine Rivers, serves as the capital city of the Provence of Brittany.
The city’s name derives from “Redones,” a Celtic tribe that established its chief township here in the second century B.C. At that time, the township was called “ Condate” ( a Celtic term that meant “confluence” since the town was established at the junction of the two rivers mentioned above). This whole region was known as the ancient “Duchy of Brittany “ (a Medieval feudal State).
During the third century A.D., the Romans had occupied the region and turned the town into a fortified compound, with strong walls around it to fend off invasion. The town’s strategic position established it as an important communication center for western Gaul. The Romans renamed it “Amorica”” ( meaning “on the sea”). After the Romans left , the Dukes of Brittany ruled the area as an independent region, until 1528, when it became part of France.
Between 1615 and 1655, Rennes’ parliament building was constructed by Solomon de Brosse, the same architect who created the Palace of Luxembourg in Paris. A huge fire in 1720 greatly damaged most of the town. It took years to rebuild. At the time of the French Revolution, Rennes had become the headquarters for the Republican Army in its fight with the “Vendeens” (royalist insurgents). In 1899, the retrial (on charges of espionage) of Captain Alfred Dreyfus took place here. His case was unsuccessfully championed by the writer, Emile Zola.
As World War II waged on, much of the city was again destroyed, this time by Allied bombing raids. Rennes’ Cathedral (which had been built in 1844) had two of its towers ( belonging to an earlier structure) destroyed.
Today, many tourists visit Rennes to see its storied half-timbered houses, as well as its famous weekend farmers market (one of France’s largest)in Marche des Lices.(originally, this was the location for one of Rennes’ largest factories). Now-a-days, the city is also noted for its research in the biotech and medical fields.

Situated where the rivers Ille and Velaine meet, Rennes, France has been known by several names - i.e. “Redones,” “Condate,” and “Amorica”.

Its most distinctive features are its Medieval half-timbered homes. We found them delightful to look at.

When the Romans occupied this region in the third century A.D., they fortified the city with a surrounding stone wall.

Rennes’ City Hall was built in 1733 by architect Jacques Gabriel. The plaza on which it stands is officially known as Place de la Mairie.

Located on the opposite side of the plaza from City Hall, the Rennes Opera House, opened in 1833, is considered to be one of France’s smallest.

First opened as a market in 1483, the Marche des Lices did not become a regular weekend feature until 1622.

This location was originally outside the city walls at the Mordelaise Gate., at the convergence of several of the city’s trade routes.

Over three hundred venders ply their wares here every weekend and the market boasts that at least 10,000 visitors show up each time.

An 1892 archival photo of the market. For over 500 years, this Square has played host to many events ( in addition to its market), such as jousts tournaments, public executions, etc.

Like most urban areas, Rennes values it green spaces, like this Parc de Thabor, considered one of France’s most beautiful.

Thabor Park was the former gardens of the monks of Saint-Melaine Benedictine Abbey. It was named after Mt. Tabor in Galilee..